Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 25 July - 1 August 2010

As time moves on, the memories of great experiences do not fade, but grow significantly more important in my life. I will leave Vonitsa and Dolphins of Greece with every confidence in the future. I firmly know that the impact of this past week will remain with me. I will always talk about the town, Joan and Panni, and of course and so importantly, the dolphins and their water habitats both here in Greece and globally. The passion and dedication to his work coupled with his deep devotion to these amazing sea mammals makes Joan stand out as a very special scientist. I have great respect for people who live their lives with these qualities. Personally, I have never really been very close to sea life, yet dolphins have intrigued me greatly. This week has facilitated change in my connection to the underwater world! Thank you!

Robin (USA)

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Thank you for an amazing week in Vonitsa. A few things I will never forget .... Riding out in the boat early in the morning with the mist still on the horizon and the sun pale and sparkling on the bay .... Watching the moon rise over the rocky hills to the east .... The diamond spray of dolphins jumping in the far distance ... The Dalmation pelican flying low, dragging its feet in the water .... The glossy arcs of the dolphins surfacing .... The sound of their breathing with the gulls crying ... slender terns flying over us ... Dolphins leaping, splashing, churning the water all around us .... I am sad to leave, but very grateful to Joan and Panni for all they’ve done. Joan ... I appreciate your dry sense of humor almost as much as your skill as a teacher. Your patience and clarity as well as your deep sense of commitment are inspiring. It was so enlightening to spend these days in your company and to learn a little bit about what it takes to do scientific research (not to mention how to make that great yogurt dish for the lamb kebabs.) Thank you for teaching me so much about this incredible place and the beautiful dolphins who live here. Panni .... thank you for sharing your warmth, enthusiasm, compassion and intelligence so generously. It’s been glorious.

June (USA)

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This is our 5th visit to the Dolphins of Greece project and it was as amazing as ever. Watching dolphins calmly swimming, leaping out of the water, surface feeding, bow riding etc is so incredible even now – we doubt that we’d ever get tired of seeing it! Favourite moments include watching a group of dolphins close to the boat feeding gently, with dolphins all around us at various distances jumping and leaping excitedly; sitting with the boat engine turned off and listening to the dolphins blows, while swimming around us and feeding. Fortunately, we’re off to Ithaka for a couple of days and will be back for the next team to see lots more incredible behaviour. But the most amazing time has to be the time spent with the turtles! Thanks to Joan, Panni, Posi and the dolphins and turtles for such a great week – remember we would like some Common and Striped Dolphins in Kalamos next week!

Elaine and Richard (UK)

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"Oh, I have had my moments, but if I had to do it over again I would have more of them—just moments, one after the other."
--Nadine Stair

I have tried to live my life by this quote, appreciating the moments, as well as the broader picture, as I travel through life. This was never more true than this week as I collected observations as a traveler, dolphin watcher, lay-researcher and human being. I had many questions about what I saw and learned a great deal from Joan and Panni, both fantastic educators. I gathered inspired ideas about what I will bring back to share with my students, colleagues, family and friends about this experience. I learned a lot about what it takes to be a successful researcher, as I helped to carefully observe and record vital data. I observed the way of life here in this corner of the world, one very different and yet beautifully similar to my own. However, most importantly, I have a string of memories- these moments- that will forever connect me to the dolphins and their habitat. From beauty we receive truth and clarity. The dolphins’ lives here are not unlike our own, forever linked to the world around us. Though I have to spin the globe to see Vonitsa from my home in New York City, the environmental impact IS in my backyard.
I leave here committed to spread the message about these beautiful creatures and the impact we have on them. My goal is that someday, the girls I teach will be able to come here to see a cleaner gulf, a thriving dolphin poulation, and a graphs with lines of disappearing creatures and clean waters heading in the right direction.
I have come to Greece to learn about dolphins and about our past connected to this historic land. I feel I will leave this country feeling a sense of ownership for the intertwined nature of our world- people, animals and ideas- in a way that I never would have imagined. With incredible gratitude,

Trude (USA)

Viewing dolphins as Taiji could show them

A very nice article featuring work by Tethys in the Amvrakikos Gulf, Greece, as well as an upcoming paper on compassionate feelings towards the sperm whales stranded in Italy in 2009:

http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/fe20100711rh.html

The article, written by Rowan Hooper, appeared in the Japan Times.

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 16-23 July 2010

My expectations for this project were high, but it has exceeded them by miles! While I thought we would be allowed to help with the research, I never believed I would be as involved as we have been in data collection. The absense of an assistant meant that we, the volunteers, were needed to perform the tasks normally done by them. This enabled me to feel that I was truly contributing to the research that will hopefully help to save these beautiful animals. The atmosphere was much more relaxed than I had expected. I felt that we (Team X) and Marina developed a great rhythm, both in data collection and everyday life. It made every moment fun! We were also so lucky to have six sightings of dolphins in six days. The first day in Kalamos (day 6) brought us face to face with a group of about 30 striped dolphins, a species which is not normally found there. They approached the boat, surfacing a foot from the side and swimming along under the front. I do not have the words to describe our encounter, but it was one of the best moments of my life. Now I understand more about the threats to the aquatic ecosystems I am more desparate than ever to do whatever I can to help. This project has shown me that a career in marine research is the only one for me! Thank you to Marina, Tatiana, Karen and Tim for making this so special. I do not believe it would have been the same without you and I will never forget this week.

Fran, U.K.

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One day before leaving now, just this morning, one of my team mates asked me if this Earthwatch expedition to Vonitsa, Greece, had lived up to my expectations... Without any doubt I replied to him, that it had in fact far exceeded the expectations. The unique experiences that we lived during these seven days will remain forever in my mind. The sense of collaboration of this team, four strangers coming from different parts of the world and effective led by Marina Costa, our team leader, allowed us to effectively participate in the understanding of this research and the nature of the dolphins, the hands-on collection of data, and the excitement of being in contact with this beautiful environemnt. We were lucky enough as to be able to see dolphins all these six days. I am already thinking about the ways I will share my experience with my colleagues and students. I am looking forward to my next expedition. Thank you, Marina, Fran, Karen and Tim for your presence in this place here and now. It has been a pleasure meeting you all.

Rosa, Canada

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First of all I have to say how privileged I was to be involved in this project. Even though we were only involved in the research process for six days, the lessons I have learned in Vonitsa will stay with me forever. I too enjoyed being fully immersed in the research during the time we were here. From the different species of dolphins we encountered to the different transits we traveled to try and find the dolphins. Every day was a new adventure. Thank you to Marina, our fearless leader, for providing just the right balance between work and play. You definitely provided us with opportunities to laugh as well as providing us with insight into your work with cetaceans all over the world. Thank you also to Tatiana, Fran and Tim for all the memories. We really made a great team. I consider this expedition to be the start of a lifelong process of continuing to learn and educate others about the beautiful animals that live in the ocean and the things that we can do to make sure that they are there for future generations to enjoy.

Karen, USA

Tethys research in the Amvrakikos Gulf featured in New Scientist

A couple of weeks ago, the online news editor from the renowned New Scientist Magazine - Rowan Hooper - joined the 'Dolphins of Greece' Project in the Amvrakikos Gulf.

Hooper, thanks to an EarthWatch initiative, had the opportunity to spend nine days shoulder-to-shoulder with Tethys’ researchers Joan Gonzalvo and Iva Popovic.

After this experience, Hooper wrote an article about the dolphins situation in the Amvrakikos Gulf and in the waters surrounding the island of Kalamos, where Tethys is studying dolphins since 1991.

Read the article: Dolphins make their last stand in the Mediterranean.

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 9-16 June 2010

All together, we learned an aweful lot, not only about dolphins, how to collect and process data, but also on the conservational aspects of this project, while having a good insight in major issues of todays marine ecosystems.

Harald, Lars (Denmark), Tommi (Finland) and André (Switzerland)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 30 May - 6 June 2010

What an amazing experience. Every day was an adventure, whether going out into the Amvrakikos Gulf, out to Kalamos or just trying to cook dinner! On our first morning we set off in search of turtles by the mussel farm and after circling around for about 45 minutes and only seeing a couple of heads, I began to wonder how lucky we were going to be with the dolphins. Then, just a few minutes later we were surrounded by dolphins, pandemonium broke out on the boat with everyone shouting their sightings, the first volunteer got a taste of the dreaded netpad, and…….I was hooked! Seeing these beautiful creatures in their natural habitat was awesome, particularly the breaching, with every day better than the last. The afternoons spent cropping and matching photos of fins were far more fun than they should have been, thanks to my fellow volunteers (Jan, Melinda, Chris and Bob) and Iva`s enthusiasm and wicked giggles. The fun she and I had with “Banana Fin” will live long in the memory! Along with the fun, I also had my eyes opened to the problems of pollution, water diversion and over-fishing, not just for the dolphins but for the ocean at large. As well as the experience itself, it is these messages that I will take with me and try to disseminate back in the office and in my presentations to local school and business group back home.

Finally, I would like to say thank you to Joan and Iva for a fantastic week. Joan is so dedicated to his work and shows a real passion for the dolphins and a willingness to share this with us; never losing patience with the questions, nor the random direction and distances that were being yelled out so enthusiastically, but so often incorrectly! Then there was his wicked sense of humour, which so matched mine..……let`s never grow up Joan! Iva was such a fun girl too, always laughing (especially when I nearly fell out of the boat with the netpad in the storm at Kalamos!) and always making me smile, with her 3 fleeces and never a hair out of place! Thanks guys.

Paul (UK)

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Yet again, another wonderful Earthwatch experience (my second, certainly not my last!). I learn so much on these trips. Things that I could never learn anywhere else and that are made even more compelling because of the PIs and assistants relating their own personal experiences and knowledge. Joan and Iva were no exception, sharing their passion and dedication to the sea and its inhabitants daily. The bunk beds and combined living quarters were of mild concern initially but it ended up feeling like a combination of camp and a slumber party. The cooking situation was of more dire concern for me (and would have been for others, believe me!) if we hadn’t convinced everyone to go out to eat on my night to cook! Otherwise, the meals were lovely and I am continually impressed by the skills of others to whip up great meals seemingly out of thin air. Even recording data in the netpad was mastered (well, it got BETTER if not mastered).

Throughout the week was lots of laughter, interesting conversations about all kinds of things, people from different places in the world sharing their stories and of course, the dolphins! Amazing to watch and wonder about these beautiful fi…… oh, mammals!! Every day but one we saw incredible feats of acrobatics and grace in the air and water (sometimes even some human acrobatics as we hung on for dear life with sudden boat acceleration! Or twisted around into unlikely positions as we tried to keep dolphins in sight.) The bow riding, breaching, surfing and simply seemingly playing of the dolphins was more than I could have asked for. Even the day we didn’t see any dolphins (our first day in Kalamos) was a stark reminder of what happens when an area is so overfished it can no longer sustain life – there were no birds beyond those just flying by, no signs of life at all in comparison to Amvrakikos – just people on sailboats on pretty, blue but empty water. It was truly a feeling of success when the second day in Kalamos (our last day of the trip) as we were heading in at the end of another no sighting day when we spotted 3 dolphins and kept them in sight despite rough water, thunder, lightning and spraying water. An exciting and dramatic way to end our trip. A great trip and another earthwatch experience that has left me inspired and exhilarated! Thank you Joan and Iva!

Janis (USA)

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What a great experience. I was most impressed with our leaders, Joan and Iva, for their effort, dedication and generosity towards preserving the dolphins in a manner acceptable to the local community. This is a tremendous challenge, since the dolphin’s decline is tied closely to growth in the region and to fishing as an important income source. This trip gave me a good feel for the amount of effort involved and the level of need and urgency that society must understand and pay heed to, in order that we take the appropriate actions to save not only the dolphins, but other species also. I thank Joan and Iva for an outstanding effort to include us in their work and to educate us as to what mankind is doing to the seas and its creatures. I appreciate that the message is balanced – that there are alternative strategies that can meet the needs of the people, if not of corporations. They demonstrated that dedication is required and that broad support is essential to their mission.

There were two moments I will not forget. The first was a short period on our second day in which we were tracking a number of dolphins and they were appearing all around us, some at very short distance. There was a lot of shouting and excitment as Joan simultaneously maneuvered the boat, snapped photos, and gave instructions. Ten several dolphins jumped into the air directly in front of the boat. Wow. The second memorable event was a video conference Joan had with a class of students in the US who decided they wanted to do something to save the dolphins. Very impressive!

In summary, this was a great experience in the sense that it made me realize the urgency and magnitude of the challenges facing dedicated researchers such as Joan and Iva, along with their coworkers. And this is only one species from the sea that we need to take action on. The experience will allow me to build a much more effective class lesson for my students, as well as drive me to do much more to preserve what mankind is likely to lose if we don’t take preventive measures. I also enjoyed the other four volunteers on this project: Paul, Chris, Janis, and Melinda. I hope we’ll stay in touch.

Bob (USA)

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Another amazing Earthwatch adventure! And another part of the world and earth that I need to worry about. ... I appreciate and so enjoy the perfect combination of education, contribution to serious fieldwork, a fabulous sense of humor, and the sense of comradary and teamwork that is built so quickly. Joan was always willing to share his knowledge and make sure we were getting the most from our experience. His concern and compassion for the dolphins is evident; he made sure we left the expedition with a broader understanding not only of the dolphins but of the fragility of the ecosystems of the oceans worldwide as well. His charm and sense of humor made it all fun! I especially apreciated him fixing and bringing me tea when I wasn’t feeling well...way above the call of duty. Iva’s enthusiasm for learning and her patience with all of us (including Joan) is comendable. Her guidance and smile were essential! It’s not always easy to work with volunteers, but Joan and Iva have mastered it! The experience couldn’t have been better.....a fabulous breaching dolphin and photos during “high seas”, thunder and lightening...who could ask for more?

Chris (USA)

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“Enjoy the beauty of the dolphins,” Joan said as we raced back and forth across the water. Traveling unprepared in a world of ecological challenges can be quite a shock to one’s sense of self in the context of what I may leave for future generations. It can often be a confrontation with what I believe to be true about myself that rubs me raw. That is how I view my experience in Vonitsa with the dolphins in Amvarakikos Gulf and at Kalamos. Previous to this Earthwatch trip I had spent time reading about oceans, learning to dive, eating responsibly, and donating money to some organization whose literature stated they were saving the oceans. I was sure that if the oceans died humans were doomed. And, I was doing my part. As this Earthwatch experience comes to a close, I have come to recognize how truly uninformed I am about my relationship with our oceans. Joan’s intense commitment and passion for marine life, the oceans, and people makes the urgency of the conditions on this planet very personal. As the days passed, Joan’s demand for us to yell 9 o’clock, 60 meters, 3 dolphins became more important to the team. Of course, his requests were always followed by “please” and “thank you” or “hold on”. When I sorted out the difference between sea state four waves and the dorsal fins of the two departing dolphins at 6 o’clock, 200 meters, in the rain on the last day, I felt I was a part of something important. Locating the dolphins became a small piece of the larger puzzle. And at the end of the day the team knew it was important. Iva, our research assistant, was a blessing. Her intelligent patience with our clumsiness made this trip all the more enjoyable. She steered us in the right direction and made sure we were prepared to participate. Our lack of skill with the “netpad”, our hand-held computer, did not deter her. The “net pad”, an invention of torture, deliberately designed to sort out the higher order mammals among the team. Needless to say I have a limited future in “netpadding”. She was a perfect complement to our team.

For me personally, I cannot recall laughing more. Joan, Iva and my team brought their best game to each adventure. I counted on Bob for insight, on Paul for focus and purpose, on Chris for serious laughter, and on Jan for the very best questions. The company of good people with a purpose can hardly be matched by anything else one can do for a week, if not for a lifetime. As time passes it is the sound of Joan’s voice, filled with excitement at seeing each dolphin, and the generosity of Iva’s refreshing candor that I will miss most. Hopefully, I will carry the learning with me as I go. I cried when I watched °End of the Line.° I rarely cry. Maybe anarchy is not the answer, or maybe it is? How does one get the attention of those who are making decisions with our lives without going over the edge or reason? Something has to change the greed of my generation or my children and their children will have little left. I struggle with this and what I can do. I imagine the struggle is what I am taking away from this experience and the measure of me might well be determined by what comes of it. There is still time today.

Melinda (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 21-28 May 2010

Ahhhhh, there were things that made me leery of this project… cooking… and bunkbeds among them. But hey, I didn’t cook, and the beds were just fine. But I knew when we arrived at the rendezvous and I sat watching the gulf that all would be more than fine (especially since the rain stopped about that time...not to be seen again while we’ve been here).

I have immensely enjoyed each of the Earthwatch projects I’ve been part of and Dolphins of Greece is no exception… might even now head the list as favourite. Have learned so much more than I expected thanks to our knowledgeable, amusing (and sometimes smart aleck?) PI, Joan (and trusty sidekick, Iva). I fear I will never feel the same about eating fish again, which is undoubtedly a good thing, and I suspect some friends at home may become a bit tired of my passing along what I’ve learned.

Best of all, of course, were the dolphins themselves, how kind of them to gather a large contingent to come greet us our first morning on the gulf—what a show! And then to provide another astonishing performance on our last day seemed a marvelous bonus. In between, they let us be with them, showed us something different each day and gave us practice in dealing with that lovely netpad (our hand-held computer), and remembering to be LOUD when hollering out that a dolphin was out at 4 o'clock and 30 meters, or was that 80 meters, maybe 150? How could anyone spend time with these lovely beings and not want to do whatever little bit she could to help research that might some day help them?

The company was excellent and the food was yummy. I, a confirmed cat person, even thought Posi was delightful. The only complaint I could think of about this entire experience is that IT’S TOO DARNED SHORT! I am a bit bereft realizing that there will be no wind-blown ride onto the gulf in the morning, but the memories (and about a bazillion photos—thanks for being patient with me and my camera) will last a very long time. And really, Joan, when I win the lottery, I’ll be back. Be prepared.

Marcia (USA)

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What a great experience! I had never been in Greece before or on an Earthwatch expedition. Really would recommend it to anyone. I sure hope that the dolphins will be here in 10 years, and will do what I can to encourage marine conservation. I liked the small group we had of 3 volunteers and two research staff. I liked being involved in so many aspects of the research effort and the research staff really made me feel like I was contributing to the overall picture. I had trouble determining distance especially in meters, but it worked out. This experience with Earthwatch was excellent. Hope to do more expeditions in the future. Would love to take a niece or nephew on a trip. I encouraged some co-workers to try something like this so I hope that they will and that they will spread the word to conserve our wonderful marine environment.

Dolly (USA)

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I think our team was most fortunate in having lovely May weather - cool in the mornings and evenings and warm at mid day. We did not have a single day without dolphins and saw almost every behaviour. It was not until our last day that I actually saw the white belly of a dolphin during surface feeding behaviour, which we were able to observe from just five meters. We spotted two Dalmatian pelicans during our runs and were able to observe one for quite a while, flying just above the surface of the water. The time with the dolphins was most precious but I really enjoyed learning to crop and match the photographs too. Joan was very generous with his time in making sure we understood all aspects of the research. He is not only a dedicated scientist and excellent teacher but a great cook! Iva was very instrumental in being sure we understood everything and were comfortable during our stay. I was especially pleased to learn that this Earthwatch project has an active outreach component, working with local people and especially school children. I look forward to sharing the materials developed for children with my Canadian grandchildren. I thought I was fairly knowledgeable about marine conservation but I really have a new fund of knowledge to share about what we as consumers and citizens need to do to save the seas and our wonderful aquatic friends. Marcia and I have survived 5 previous Earthwatch trips together but having Dolly as our coworker made this trip a delight. Thanks to all of you for a wonderful experience. Yes, even Posy was a good companion.

Nancy (USA)

Great start for Team 4

Today we welcomed our fourth team of volunteers of the season. After a brief introductory session to our research protocols, methods and safety procedures, I left Mary, Marcia, Nancy and Iva (our research-assistant) in the volunteer’s loft, getting familiar with the hand-held computer we use onboard to collect data on dolphin behaviour. I went out to the balcony to check on Poseidon (our dog) and think about the different ways of improving my P.I. skills - i.e. I was actually having a cigarette ;-), when a large flock of seagulls called my attention. After a few seconds of observation I spotted a group of 3-4 dolphins surface-feeding right below the frenzy of seabirds, half a mile away from Vonitsa’s seafront. I rung the alarm and we all flew off to the small pier right in front of our field base to observe our first sighting together. We stayed there until they stopped feeding, progressively moving out from sight. We could not ask for a better start or for a better welcome for our new group of Earthwatchers!

joAn

A great experience

I have loved dolphins since I was ten. To participate in the Dolphins of Greece expedition as a research assistant is a dream come true for me. When I arrived to Vonitsa a month ago I was anxious to face the challenge. During my first sighting I was so nervous! A couple of days later I was the first to spot the dolphins and progressively, I started to feel more comfortable with the data collection and with the application of the different research protocols. I suddenly felt that I was enjoying it very much. I will always remember that moment when I felt that ‘yes, this is what I really want to do’. Since then, I have spent many amazing moments with the dolphins of the Amvrakikos Gulf.

I have also enjoyed sharing this experience with our volunteers. I met many interesting people who, as I do, believe in the principle that as individuals we can do a lot for the environment and for the conservation of nature. I am eager to get back home and share my experiences with family and friends.

I am full of enthusiasm and I am looking forwards to come back in June and do my best to help with the work carried out by Tethys. Joan has taught me a lot. However, there are so many things still to be learnt!

Anikó Szegedi (Panni)
Research assistant from Hungary

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 5-12 May 2010

This week leaves me feeling privileged, humbled and challenged.

I consider myself privileged to have been introduced to the Amvrakikos Gulf and to the dolphins by somebody who knows them so well and who is dedicating his life and energy to monitoring them and working for the preservation and restoration of their environment. Thank you, Joan. I also feel extremely privileged to have been able to participate in meaningful and rigorous research and to have been able to contribute, albeit on the most simple of tasks, with Joan and Panni as they start another season of intense work.

Much of the time when we saw dolphins, I could not speak – I was completely overcome by these beautiful, healthy, magnificent animals. My feelings were a mixture of overwhelming awe, respect, marvel and total calmness, which was not what I expected. Watching the dolphins in their environment without our presence affecting them - to observe them feeding, socialising {sometimes intimately!}, travelling, communicating – was incredible – one runs out of superlatives, but I felt totally humbled and totally blessed. I love all aspects of this place, the sky, how the mountains change from hour to hour and day to day, the islands, the water, the dolphins, the flocks of solitary {!!} pelicans, the bats flitting around at dusk – just the peace, and the knowledge that the dolphins are still out there and, hopefully, with the work of Tethys and dedicated men and women, like Joan and Panni, will thrive here for many decades.

We have seen dolphins every day and, even just sighting them was perfect for me. But, as the week has progressed, we have witnessed more and more incredible examples of how wild dolphins behave. Over the last three days I feel Amvrakikos has yielded more of itself to us – the unconventionally beautiful pelicans, the beautiful, sleek grey forms of the dolphins out on the horizon and so close to the boat. Seeing them socialising, mating, moving out of the water to look at us, leaping and, today, feeding and then relaxing has been a very precious gift to me.

I also feel challenged by knowing that the balance here is so fragile, that this place is so unique and that the simplest of my choices - ‘what shall we have for tea tonight’ - may have a direct impact on what happens here and elsewhere in the world. Joan said we cannot take on the whole world and you have to decide what you really believe in and follow it through – to ‘focus’. This week I realise, with a degree of shame, that I may ‘talk the talk’, but could certainly ‘walk the walk’ with more conviction and dedication than I have done. Joan’s focus and dedication is an inspiration and so, as well as being completely overwhelmed by the dolphins themselves, to spend time alongside somebody with such deep commitment and personal passion, has been a very humbling experience. Thank you, Joan.

In more practical terms, I can fault nothing. For me the balance between work and relaxation time is good and it was good to feel that the exercises we were doing in the afternoon were ‘real’ and not just ‘dummies’ for ‘the volunteers’ to play with. I am sorry I was so inept with the palmtop on the first day – I shall bring my monocle next time!! The lectures, talks and videos are very informative, very comprehensive and I thought provided a perfect platform for further reading, discussions, questions etc. The field station is very comfortable – much more so than I expected - and beautifully arranged – thank you Joan for all those trips to Ikea and for letting us into your beautiful home. Sharing the cooking is a brilliant idea and we have eaten so well this week – once again, far beyond what I expected. Panni is an absolute poppet and her gentle touches on my shoulder and guidance with the palmtop, on which groups of dolphins to concentrate on and sweetness around the house have really helped dispel my nervousness (I really didn’t want to be ‘the Weakest Link’. Joan, I thank you for all you have taught me this week and for explaining everything so thoroughly and willingly. Yes, you are exacting, but extremely professional and your professionalism and demand for accuracy and high quality gives weight and absolute credence to your work, which is such an excellent example to us volunteers

Thank you Joan and Panni for sharing your space for the week, and of course, thank you to Posi for providing some canine company, evening acoustics and much amusement!! Joan, Panni and my dear co-volunteer, Nina, are very special people and this has been a very happy week – for the things I have seen and been part of, the company and friendships formed and being part of something bigger, and hopefully longer-lasting than myself. I’m really happy that Nina and I are continuing our Grecian ‘odissey’, which means we can continue to talk about this amazing week and I think both of us will leave a bit of ourselves here anyway…

Karen Musk (UK)

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“Splashes on the horizon,

Tails in the air.

Peace, with dolphins breathing.”

This has been my first volunteering experience in conservation, and it has been so much more than I ever expected it to be. This is something I have wanted to do for years and in finally plucking up the courage to go for it, I leave with far more than some pretty photos, a sun tan and a tick in a box! I leave with an appreciation of the delicate interplay between individuals within a highly social community, between a species and their environment, and between mankind’s economic agendas and the impact of these on fragile ecosystems. I also take with me new friendships: Karen, Joan and Panni, this team has felt more like a funny little family than anything else! I very much look forward to these friendships developing.

Life at the Vonitsa research station on this expedition has struck the perfect balance between practical fieldwork and project support, educational and relevant discussions, free time, delicious meals and warm conversation around the dinner table (with just the right amount of micky-taking)! Joan, you have created a lovely home for us here – thank you for sharing this space and your time with us so openly. Bear-like in the mornings (heehee), you foster a warm and positive atmosphere within the team by simply being yourself: we have laughed so much (about things that I dare not elaborate on here..!) and talked about so many things. Your enthusiasm, commitment and knowledge of this field is as broad as it is infectious – I defy anyone to not take away a more responsible attitude to the treatment of marine life, nor a deep interest in the life of cetaceans (or a taste for the capuccino freddo!!)! Panni, you are such a warm, open and caring girl – thank you for setting the scene for the lovely atmosphere that has developed over the week. You have been so good in training us with the palmtop and with processing the photos to be able to identify individuals – it seems you’ve been doing this for years, you are a very good and patient teacher. Your enthusiasm for learning new things and taking this forward into your career is commendable and I wish you all the best for your future endeavours (and I mean it about getting in touch if you need help with applications etc!). Posi – thank you for your unswerving enthusiasm (for food and walks) and for providing such material for laughter..! (although I don’t thank you Joan for using this material just when I’d always taken a mouthful of food! Cheeky!)

Our days on board ‘The Baby’ have been exquisite: we have been so lucky with our sightings, seeing such a range of behaviours demonstrated and by so many individuals. The allocation and organisation of training, responsibilities and activities within the team out on the boat have been impecable: proof of the long term experience the project managers have. All procedures are well practiced and organised in a safe, inclusive (and fun!) manner. I feel like I have significantly broadened my knowledge of research techniques for this type of work, and I plan to take these forward in my own career now. And Joan, I am sorry about getting so excited about the sightings that I end up all over the boat, especially with my head in the frame... oops!!

The last two sightings have been, well, too rich for these few words to fully illustrate. Being in the middle of the beautifully smooth Amvrakikos Gulf waters, surrounded by dolphins: we have witnessed intimate social behaviour, the affection between familiar individuals; we have watched dolphins use their bodies to corral fish to the surface to feed, seen mothers with their young so close by; we have seen playful breaching in breath-taking displays. We have come to recognise individuals, and have seen how these are like old friends to our captain! And all the while it has felt a privilege to be there, to be accepted by these facinating creatures – and especially at times to be the subject of playful curiosity!

Today, when Joan switched the boat engine off and we were alone with the sounds of the Gulf, we had a time that I will never forget. Hearing nothing but the breath of our group of resting dolphins, the ripple of the water as they surfaced and the gentle lap of the waters against the hull of the boat, I realised that I was in their world, and that I was there only because they allowed it. It was an honour.

Nina (UK)

Unforgettable "Dalmatian" experience

This morning, after following a group of bottlenose dolphins for about an hour and a half we encountered a large group of Dalmatian pelicans Pelecanus crispus. In total, we estimated 24 individuals. Slowly approaching them with our research boat they allowed us to observe them from just a few meters away.

Dalmatian pelicans are large and elegant waterbirds which wingspan can easily reach about 3 m. In the past they were widely distributed throughout Europe and Asia. During the last century, however, their population dropped drastically and occurrence in Europe is now limited. The species is classified as Vulnerable in the IUCN Red List.

The islets in the lagoons Tsoukalio and Logarou in the northern Amvrakikos Gulf is one of the few European sites where they are regularly nesting.

Today we enjoyed the largest congregation of these magnificent animals registered since we started working in the Gulf, i.e. since 2001. Watching their majestic wings spreading right in front of us for takeoff left us all wide-eyed and speechless. Unforgettable!

joAn

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 26 April - 3 May 2010

In these eight days you have given me so much to thank you for. Thank you for the eagerness with which you shared information about not only dolphins, but the state of the oceans as a whole. Thank you for your openness and clear interest in the questions and views of others and of course thank you for the chance to come so close to dolphins in the wild, this meant more to me then I can express with words. But most of all thank you for not pushing me off the boat for insubordination!

Genevieve (USA)

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This experience was so educational and informative! What a wonderful opportunity to visit a veritable paradise, meet interestig people, learn, and do good work. I kept voluminous notes on all the documentaries and presentations Joan shared with us. I am not sure how I will use them to help spread the word about how we must all work to save our precious animals and environment, but with his approval I will find a way. A vegetarian and animal rights defender for decades, this experience not only deepened my resolve to continue to influence others whenever possible and appropriate, but it also heightened my sense of urgency about informing and educating the public and our policy makers. Returning to an intense learning environment for eight days after many years of a mentally unchallenging lifestyle was just the right jolt I needed to begin exercising my brain cells more often. Even the library of paperbacks and hardcover books here offered both leisure time pleasure and more learning opportunities. An overall good experience!

Joan and Ely (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 17-24 April 2010

As Joan said very rightly: after this experience you will never look at a dolphin fin the same way. Who would have imagined fins can look so different! But of course the most marvellous experience was the time we spent on the boat, with the dolphins! It was really great to see the differences in their behaviour, to hear them breathing so close by and see their friendly faces. It completely made us forget the chilly wind – imagine that in a few weeks teams will be heat-battered in that same boat.

What made the expedition really enjoyable was the team spirit: it must be because we were such an international (5 nationalities) team that we were able to cooperate so smoothly. We were fortunate to have a team with great sense of humour: if jokes sometimes got a little out of hand, we can only blame that on “ouzo” and “krassi”. We learnt that Germans can be ferocious drivers, that being negative on command is not an easy thing to do and that Joan “no habla ingles” when the discussion gets tricky. Meanwhile our live-from-the-field teacher kept several classes of American kids up-to-date with our expedition findings and did a good deal to help them realise how they can help to save endangered marine species from extinction. We hope you will see some of them on an Earthwatch expedition in the future!

Stephan (Germany), Marie-Claire and Cas (Holland)

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This experience has been truly amazing for me. I left America with a very different attitude than I will be returning with. Joan’s passion for his work was contagious. He was a very good teacher when it came time to explain the big picture and how our choices are affecting the environment in such negative ways. I had no idea that overfishing was as bad as it is. The documentaries really showed how depressing is the situation and how we, as consumers, have the power to change what is happening. The message I want to take back to my classroom is that every one of us plays a part and that asking the right questions and becoming more educated about what we buy is the way to get things moving in the right direction. I have to say I am a changed woman and I will be approaching some aspects of my life very differently as a result of this trip.

I want to thank Joan and Panni for their hospitality. It cannot be easy welcoming four very different individuals into your home and successfully making them all feel comfortable. The balance between work and play was very nice. I got to see a lot more than the dolphins, which would have been enough. I will never forget the faces of those dolphins and how it felt when they looked at you. If only they would stay above the water just a little longer so I could get a decent picture of them. The time on the boat was amazing and intense! I am sorry that it has to end, but I leave here knowing that my students will benefit greatly from the information I have gathered. As a result, I believe our environment will benefit greatly too, even if it is just a little.

Apart from learning a lot about dolphins through presentations as well as constantly asking questions to our patient expedition leader, we received a thorough insight into the state of commercial fishing, the already depleted resources of the oceans and possible solutions to those problems.

Nicole (USA)

Back on track

On Saturday our first team of Earthwatch volunteers for the 2010 research season left our field base in Vonitsa, after a week spent working with us on dolphins in the Amvrakikos Gulf.

It could not be a better team to get things started. Stephan, Marie-Claire, Cas and Nicole were hard-working and good fun.

It was also a challenging week for Annikó (Panni), our new Hungarian research assistant, who is learning fast and who will be soon posting some comments in this blog.

Our volunteer Nicole teaches third grade for boys in New York City and she joined our project as a Life From the Field Fellow. During her stay she communicated with her students via skype and her blog. We held several video conferences with hundreds of students, who had the opportunity of hearing about the experiences of their teacher and ask questions to the Tethys staff.

joAn

Ionian Dolphin Project: updated report 1991-2009

The Ionian Dolphin Project, a long-term research and conservation programme conducted by Tethys in the eastern Ionian Sea, has recently completed a report of the activities done in the context of its three study areas in Greece: Gulf of Amvrakikos, Gulf of Corinth and Inner Ionian Sea Archipelago.

The online version of the report can be viewed at the link below:

http://www.tethys.org/projects/IDP/

(also see pages of the Menu)

Enjoy!

Dolphins of Greece volunteers 1-9 October 2009

I loved this experience! Joan and Zsuzsanna were awesome. They were patient and increased my understanding of dolphins and the impact of overfishing. At the end of the project I had a much better understanding of how field research in marine biology is done. I now feel I can make better consumer choices on which fish to buy that are not a burden on the environment. I can also educate my friends and family on what I learned at the Dolphins of Greece expedition about overfishing, so they too can make wiser consumer choices. Overall this trip was very informative but most of all a lot of fun. I had a great time with the other volunteers on the boat, cooking, cropping and matching dolphin photos. I leave with great memories!

Maribeth, USA

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Images of Vonitsa

Bright sun,
calm, glassy seas,
a juvenile leaps!
Then, rides the bow... Wow!

Learn to shout out
“dolphin out at 2 o’clock at 50 meters”
when all you can blurt,
“my god, that’s a dolphin...right there”

The castle lit at night,
laughter at the table,
constant teasing,
a lucky dog named Poseidon.

Mary Beth, my friend,
Irina, a new friend.
Susanna, so pretty,
so sweet, but, what a taskmaster!
Joan, a flirt with his wink,
passionate, stern and authoritative (well, he tries).

Suzanne, USA

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This is my third attempt to write in this diary... now I know why I never owned one! A Greek saying comes to mind “Ta polla logia ine ftohia...” meaning that saying to much defeats the purpose... or something like that! So... from the bottom of my heart I want to thank all of you, Joan, Susie, Suzanne, Maribeth and of course Posi and the dolphins for making this week one that i will cherish for the rest of my life! Learned a lot, laughed a lot, looked a lot, bounced a lot, guessed a lot (+/-100 meters!) and of course ate A LOT! Loved it all! Thank you guys.

Irina, Greece

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 21-29 September 2009

This morning we woke up ready to make the most of our last day at sea, and after poor weather kept us moored in the house for two days prior, we were ready for it. I hummed the song Something Only We Know to myself, the song from Keane’s album The Iron Sea, which was popularized in the movie He’s Just Not That Into You. As the boat shuttled out past the marina this morning, we headed toward the open gulf in search of dolphins, one last sighting, one last day to help with the conservation efforts of Tethys Institute and our research leader, Joan Gonzalvo. I looked down at the water beside me, to the left side of the rubber inflated boat. The clarity of the water became more opaque as we headed further out, but was still translucent enough to allow sightings of dolphins bowriding, a ‘blink and you’ll miss it’ scenario that I was lucky enough to witness on our most recent sighting. It wouldn’t occur today, but I kept my eyes peeled, in case. I also kept an eye further out, where the sea appeared as a dark teal that deepened in color as the depth of the water increased. Ahead of the bow, the dark water wrinkled just enough for small waves to sift up and back into the water again, hosting small spots of sunlight that sparkled like diamonds laid upon a velvet cloth. The sun beckoned freckles forth from the pale skin of my nose and I basked in the warmth, as I kept my eyes trained on the water. ‘Just one’, I thought, ‘we just need one sighting and the rest will follow’. Finally, Joan shouted out, ‘One o’clock! Far out!’ And the boat throttled faster toward the direction of his outstrectched hand. We continually thereafter spotted a small group, maybe between four and six dolphins. By now, we had been through the routine of spotting and counting these animals, but the sightings were just as awe-inspiring, watching sleek slate grey beasts rise and fall soundlessly out of the iron sea.

Toward the end of the day, I glanced over my shoulder at our boat’s stern – the water beyond us had taken on an icy blue appearance that seemed as flat as glass below the mountains of the region, giant monoliths that faded into the mist like shadows. I shook myself from the mesmerizing sight. Someone had spotted our guy, one single solitary dolphin traveling alone, with no telltale marks yet, but the ability to capture our hearts. I snapped several photos with my personal camera, unable to tell from the glare whether it was a good shot or not. Luckily I did end up with one good shot of the cetacean emerging from the sea – one single solitary shot - but a million memories will linger in my mind. From trying out my greetings in Greek with the locals to snapping photos of the grapes hanging off their trellises; avoiding jelly fish at the beach with purple centers that remind me of brains; traveling to Lefkada and Poros for day trips; cooking together and sharing meals; this has been a well thought out and wonderful trip. On this eighth day, I didn’t spot any sea turtles, but rumor has it, they’re around. When end of the work day was near, we witnessed a pelican to the far right by a small rust colored island covered with a dusting of nubby logan green bushes. This was a nice bonus. Finally we turned the boat south and headed back to Vonitsa, tired and mentally fatigued, but content. By now, we’d witnessed mothers and their calves, groups of dolphins feeding and leaping, often swimming so close together in small groups of two or three that from a distance they almost appeared to be the same animal. From time to time members of our team glanced at each other, exchanging smiles, watching the dolphins living peacefully and seemingly unperturbed, with no need to put on a show for us - this was the real thing. It was something only we knew.

I’ll never forget this experience, these people and the wonderful Greek people of Vonitsa. Joan, you were right – and every mishap that happened to me along the way was worth it. I’ll second the opinion of past volunteers- the videos impacted me tremendously and I’ve already begun to share the Whaletrackers links with friends and family. To Earthwatch, Tethys, and my teammates: Thanks for everything. One of my favorite responsibilities was jumping from the boat to shore with the ropes. Thanks for letting me. PS –I had the best seat in the house at the bow of the boat!

Ashley (USA)

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This was truly the experience of a lifetime. I was the lucky winner of a drawing at my company, Petro-Diamond, for an Earthwatch expedition. I chose “The Dolphins of Greece” for a few reasons, the first was... I wanted to see Greece. I did not see myself coming to Greece on a vacation, so I wanted to take the opportunity to visit this beautiful land. The second reason was because I have always found dolphins to be interesting, more interesting than the other creatures of the sea, almost like they have a kinship with humans somehow. I have been forever changed in my appreciation for these beautiful animals. Joan and Aina were so patient with the team the first day at sea out of Vonitsa, we were a bit overwhelmed with the number of dolphins all around us. It was such a wonderful sight!! Dolphins everywhere... literally everywhere that you looked. It was difficult to stay focused on the project at hand and not be in awe of what was in front of you. Once we were back at the house, we began the cropping, grouping and matching... so many differences in a dorsal fin, who knew? Well, I know now.

I will forever view the sea differently and have a deep appreciation for sealife and especially the beautiful dolphins. The meals together were a highlight, planning and prepareing and cleaning up after them, all of it was a delight. I would like to thank Joan and Aina for the hospitality that they showed us during our stay (Posi was a great addition to the group considering I miss my dogs that are at home in Cali). Joan was truly entertaining (funny and straight-up... love that) and a good sport to host us for most of our expedition without an assistant. Also, thank you to Earthwatch for giving me the opportunity to have this experience. Lastly, thank you to my team... I truly felt that we worked well as a group in the boat and back at the house! Thank goodness that we had playing cards, and David to teach us every game known to man!!

Stephanie (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers 11-19 September 2009

As the last day of the expedition comes to an end, I am able to reflect on all the information I have learned and gathered from watching the documentaries, presentations, and dolphin sightings this past week. Although I have some previous knowledge about overfishing and dolphins, coming on the project has reminded me how naive the rest of the world actually is and the need to spread more conservation awareness. Perhaps people just need more hands on experience to realize the danger humans pose to wildlife and the need to help them. Thanks to Joan and Aina for being patient with us and for helping us learn more about dolphins while having fun with us. Maybe, one day, we will randomly meet again somewhere, whether it is the water or in another country! Organizations like Earthwatch give us a wonderful eye-opening experience and hopefully, more people will be able to join projects like this one. Thanks!

Ashley (USA)

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The last day has arrived and we are getting ready to depart. The Dolphins of Greece Expedition has met all my expectations and more! The sightings of the dolphins were spectacular and Joan and Aina were great teachers. Their strongest aspect was showing their enthusiasm and dedication to the research and imparting their knowledge on us. What I will take out of this experience is the education. The videos had such an impact; they bring the criticality of the environmental aspects and the impact of the choices we make. Understanding the critical linkages to the environment and the future of all marine mammals and fish were eye opening. I know that my personal choices will be reinforced. I will also search out for opportunities to help others bridge that knowledge to bring about change, which will be my ultimate challenge. Thank you again for the great experience. The only thing I would change is altering my approach to my turn at cooking. Fine restaurants or doing all the dishes for the week would be great incentives and a lot more pleasurable for everyone. Thanks!

Marge (USA)

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This having been my first environmental expedition and first time to Greece, there was a lot to take in and experience. Outside of the opportunity this provided to observe the unique characteristics of Greek and Spanish...sorry, “Catalan” cultures, I came away with a deeper insight and greater appreciation for the men and women that dedicate their lives to bring about environmental awareness and global change. Not to mention further fuelling my desire to remain involved in conservation endeavors, while exploring the rest of the globe.

Mike (USA)

Old friends sighted around Kalamos

A few days ago, two V.I.D. (Very Important Dolphins) were encountered around the island Kalamos: Pira and Spiti, both bottlenose dolphins, seen together in a group of 11 individuals.

In 2006 Pira, a male, had a piece of yellow fishing net stuck in his blowhole, but by July 2009 he had managed to extrude the net from the blowhole. During the September sighting, Pira went to bowride in front of our research boat and Joan Gonzalvo took some nice photos of the blowhole, confirming that the net went away without causing any visible problem.

Spiti is the most popular dolphin among volunteers who had a chance to see this dolphins around Kalamos, thanks to his distinctive non-fin. Spiti's dorsal fin has been cut-off (possibly by a longline or a boat propeller) in 2003. Despite the dramatic amputation, Spiti recovered well and pigmentation went back to the original dark grey color.

Silvia Bonizzoni

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Top photo: Pira bowriding our research boat
Bottom photo: Spiti with his missing dorsal fin

Dolphins of Greece volunteers 1-9 September 2009

Everyone comes here for different reasons and with different expectations. I came on short notice, with little fanfare or personal preparation, but with the expectation that I have been given a rare opportunity to contribute to something greater than myself, and I leave hoping that I have not let anyone down. Seeing dolphins in their natural habitat, assisting with the research, learning and understanding more the impact of our seafood consumption and consumerism globally can be very eye opening, and challenging. This is the type of experience that has the potential to change your life, in little and in big ways. We were a small team, two volunteers and two researchers, I want to say that Joan and Aina were very patient with us, and worked very hard to ensure that the two of us had a memorable experience from start to finish. They both took good nature jokes made by me and my volunteer partner and laughed through many meals while maintaining the position of leader/teacher and kept us focused and on track to make our contribution to this fabulous research project.

Marsha, USA

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Learning about the environmental challenges of the Amvrakikos Gulf has been an educational experience. Learning about dolphins has been not just educational, but exciting! While I am not a scientist and have limited skills, it is a good feeling to be able to contribute to scientific research in some small way and to help prepare a conservation management plan for these precious resources. Joan and Aina are very dedicated, knowledgeable, patient and kind. They made my time here a rewarding experience and had endless patience with my fumbling ways and many questions. They are both good instructors and committed biologists and understand how to motivate volunteers. Their good nature and sense of humour led to many good times together. They also enhanced our exploration of the areas tourists by giving us good suggestions of food, tavernas and local places to visit. The dolphin project can open one’s eyes in many ways and I hope many others have an experience as fulfilling as mine. Thank you Joan, Aina, Earthwatch and partner Marsha for a terrific experience.

Glenda, USA

Oh Tursiops truncatus so dear

A small poem written by Earthwatch volunteer Glenda Booth after her dolphin experience in Vonitsa, Greece (September 8th, 2009).


There once was a man named Joan,
Who rose when still the dew on,
‘Cause dolphins he chased,
Round the sea in a race,
As intently his gum he chewed on.

There once was a girl named Aina,
As pretty as Princess Diana,
She worked like a slave,
Till she fell in her grave,
‘Cause dolphins to her were not minor.

The team sails out at sunrise,
Half awake and with so blurry eyes,
On a search far and near,
For sea creatures so dear,
And with nary a hope for a prize.

The sun it beats down very hot,
The boat heaves and flops quite a lot,
We can hardly hold on,
We cringe and we moan,
But they push us until we drop.

Our captain he yells and he screams,
As we think of wine and ice cream,
“Look one to three,
And not at your knee,
You’ve missed 20 dolphins I’ve seen!”

“Sit down, stand up”, he commands,
“look here, look there, all around.
Don’t pull any stunts,
Do it all, all at once,
And don’t behave like a clown”.

Six dolphins, they jump at seven,
And six more, they dive at eleven,
Their fins have some nicks,
As if beaten by sticks,
I know we will see them in heaven.

They demand reliable data,
Like how and when did he mate her?
How long was the dive?
Their calves, four or five?
Is his fin like a flattened potato?

Our lovely assistant is cool,
She knows and obeys every rule.
She ties all the ropes
And tugs all the floats, A
nd ensures that we are not fools.

We drag our butts home all hot,
We yearn to escape the despot,
“Oh no, onward team!
There’s more in our scheme,
For now we must dot and crop!”

Oh Tursiops truncatus so dear,
For you we will give many years,
And sacrifice all,
To answer the call
When Joan and Aina want us near.

Glenda Booth

Ionian Dolphin Project web update

The web site section of the Ionian Dolphin Project has been updated to include work conducted until July 2009.

Check it out!

http://www.tethys.org/projects/IDP/

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The Ionian Dolphin Project is a long-term research and conservation programme conducted by the Tethys Research Institute in the Ionian Sea.

In 1991 the Tethys Research Institute started a study around the island of Kalamos, in the Inner Ionian Sea Archipelago (a Natura 2000 area). Initially meant to be a long-term investigation on the ecology and behaviour of common dolphins in a central Mediterranean hotspot, the study documented their sharp decline. Common dolphins declined dramatically from about 150 to 15 animals between 1995 and 2007. Actions by Tethys aim to facilitate their recovery. Bottlenose dolphins are found in the same area in relatively small numbers, but have stable trends and were studied intensively over the past decade. Ongoing monitoring allows to detect changes in population status and propose timely management measures.

In 2001 Tethys started a study in the Amvrakikos Gulf, where bottlenose dolphins are the only cetacean species encountered. This study showed that about 150 dolphins live in the Gulf. These dolphins are members of a resident community showing unique behaviour and ecology. The Gulf - which is part of a larger National Park - is also inhabited by loggerhead sea turtles Caretta caretta and has a rich bird fauna including rare species. Research carried out by Tethys is documenting how the local dolphin community interacts with its environment and how human activities - particularly fishing and pollution - may influence its conservation status.

In 2009 Tethys started a new study in the Gulf of Corinth to investigate the ecology and status of three cetacean species: bottlenose dolphins, striped dolphins and short-beaked common dolphins. Although the number of striped dolphins living in the Gulf is still unknown, concerns over their status are raised by their likely small population size, high degree of geographic isolation, reproductive closeness and limited extent of occurrence. Striped dolphins in the Gulf are often associated with a few common dolphins and inbreeding between the two species may occur. Bottlenose dolphins also live in the Gulf at low densities.

Research by Tethys is providing support to management efforts in the eastern Ionian Sea, through actions including:

- continued monitoring of dolphin groups through field research methods including boat surveys and individual photo-identification, to detect population trends, identify critical habitat, and gain further insight into ways of mitigating the present threats;

- research on factors threatening the local ecosystem, particularly with regard to the impact of fishing;

- public awareness initiatives (e.g. involvement of a large number of volunteers, “Dolphin Days” and other events organized locally, public presentations, lectures at local schools, video productions);

- contacts and meetings with the local Authorities and fishermen organisations, aimed to a) raise awareness on the need to establish measures to protect dolphins and implement the existing regulations (e.g. with regard to illegal fishing activities); and b) identify ways to compensate any losses for fishermen or promote a progressive re-conversion of their activities;

- dissemination of information in the scientific literature and provision of sound data and management proposals to international agreements and bodies concerned with the protection of marine biodiversity.

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 21-29 August 2009

As I sit and think of how to share my experiences of the past week, I find myself a little speechless. Then reading the other entries from days and years past – I find that I am in good company feeling as if their time with the dolphins has been unforgettable! I was worried when I booked the trip ... I am not a scientist, what if I screw up their research (I think I broke that pesky handheld computer)? who knew that my biggest problem would be trying to type an English entry from an Italian keyboard!

This past week has been a marvelous experience and I believe all of the thanks belong to three people – Marina, the crazy Italian who has an unhealthy fascination about jellyfish and wanting to live under the sea (I will return to work singing that song), Susie, a wonderful research assistant who cannot sit still if you paid her and Marcello, an Italian with a Scottish brough (who knew that could happen). Not to mentiont a few cetaceans (look I learned a new word) that were simply amazing! And when I mean just a few, I mean a “focal group size” between 8 and 20 with adults, calves and a few newborns. I am going to go home wondering and dreaming – which is smarter, bottlenose or common, are we positive or negative – when can I stop looking at my feet now? which is cooler, boat riding or jumping (sorry – aerial behavior) dolphins? I have my answers and I hope the volunteers after me have all the opportunities I had to come to their own conclusions. I may just be back next year to confirm my answers. Thank You!

Monika (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 11-19 August 2009

Dolphins of Greece, an evocative term for a fantastic expedition. Patient, friendly, good humoured, and infectiously enthusiastic about their work Marina and Zsuzsanna are great people and great teachers. Possi was great as well, although now he’s behaving better he’s starting to get boring. The volunteers on this team were also great, we got on well and worked together easily and efficiently. My thanks therefore to Jen, Rick, and Christoph, as well as Marina and Zsuzsanna for a wonderful time.

The work and experiences themselves were amazing. I’ll never forget the large group of juvenile dolphins showing stereotypical teenage behaviour (shoving, pushing, playing and flirting with each other), the two dead sea turtles we found, or the worry on our final boat trip that we wouldn’t see any dolphins. I wish I was able to stay and carry on working on this project, preferably with this team, but I have to return to the UK. So it’s with fond memories and sadness that I say farewell to Vonitsa and my first Earthwatch experience. I’ll definitely be trying to get on others, possibly this one again, and also to support Tethys.

James (UK)

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As the expedition drew nearer, we tried to keep our expectations as reasonable as possible. So many people had told us of the beauty of Greece and of the incredible food for years leading up to our flight to Athens and bus ride to Vonitsa. Despite some airport delays and significant jet lag, we finally made it. Now as we wrap up our Earthwatch expedition I can safely say that all of our expectations were met and exceeded. Greece delivered the as-promised amazing food, the sights, the generous locals, the heat and the dolphins. But the importance of all of those things pale in comparison to the people we worked with on this expedition. Our volunteer-mates were hard-working yet fun. We immediately connected with both James and Christoph and together we created a memorable expedition. Our leaders, Susie and Marina, were incredibly professional and yet casual at the same time. They made sure that the work got done but also passed along the awe of seeing the dolphins (and jellyfish and turtles, albeit mostly dead ones). As teachers ourselves, we know that many behind-the-scenes details need to get done to make any learning experience happen. Susie and Marina undoubtedly worked very hard to provide the best possible experience for us. Their dedication and hard work led to great days on the sea and wonderful learning opportunities on land. Their love of the animals and of their work was infectious. And, of course, their sense of humor brought smiles everyday. They are scientists, for sure, and we are not, but they made us feel like a vital part of a team doing important research.

On one of the first days we were lucky enough to spot 4 dolphins in Kalamos after many prior trips (before we arrived) turned up none. But even before that turn of good luck, we noted what an amazing thing Earthwatch is able to do. Our van was like a little United Nations with American, Austrian, Brit, Hungarian, and Italian practicing bits of Greek sharing our own cultural quirks. We traded pieces of our own lives back home to make for an enriching experience. We have become more aware consumers of fish and more appreciative of the work that scientists do. We will bring home a new-found respect for the sea and for the people that tend it. Most importantly we will return home having made 4 great friends and so many memories we will never forget. The expedition far exceeded our expectations because of the wonderful people we were able to share it with. Thanks for everything! Efharisto para poli!

Rick and Jen (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers 1-9 August 2009

The Earthwatch experience in Vonitsa was everything I had hoped it would be and much more. Not only did we get a good insight into the daily work of a marine researcher. We also got the privilege to be touched by the passion of Susie and Marina – two of the true heroes in Tethys; one of the organizations that stand between us and the total collapse of sea life as we have known it from the birth of mankind until today.

I think I speak for all the team members (in what I would absolutely call a stellar team) when I say that we will all return to our home countries filled with inspiration to make a difference in the fight for our oceans. That was the serious part. On top of that, I have had an absolutely wonderful time here. With warm, generous and fun people, both the team members and of course our hosts: diligent, helpful and sweet Susie and energetic, bubbly, Berlusconi-bashing Marina. Add to that the stunning Greek landscape, wholesome delicious food and the one around which everything revolves: Posi the dog. I could not possibly have spent a better 9 days!

Jonas (Sweden)

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The summerheat of Greece seems to have melted the normally cold hart of this Scandinavian. I am feeling quite emotional about having to leave Vonitsa and getting on the plane home tomorrow. My expectations for this expedition were met and surpassed. Learning about the research was interesting and a great eye opener. Spotting dolphins was exiting, but the interaction with my fellow team mates and the researchers was without a doubt the best part. I have gained great respect for all the hard work and dedication required to give us -amateurs- a short glipse of the work of a marine biologist. Thank you so much!

Finally, I would like to give HUGE thanks to Marina and Zsuzsanna for taking such good care of us. Marina, you showed so much knowledge, energy and passion that I almost want to become a marine biologist myself. Susie, although you can be a bit bossy at times, I am just lost for words to describe how much I appreciate the effort you have put into guiding us through the expedition. It wouldn′t have been the same without you.

Christian (Sweden)