Dolphins in a Bottle

Dolphins of Greece in "To Vima" Greek newspaper

2011-09-27T09:39:00.006+03:00

Click here for the on-line article

Check out for the latest media coverage on Dolphins of Greece, following the article that came out recently on Newscientist. This article came out last 25th September in Sunday's special supplement on Science of "TO BHMA" (In English; "The Tribune"). Read English version below for detail.

I wold like to thank Lalina (the journalist) for her collaboration and for facilitating the English version of the article.

joAn

---

(Front Page)

THE SECRET LIFE OF BOTTLENOSE DOLPHINS

A rare manifestation of inconsolable grief of a mother for her newborn, but also the "controlled" farewell to other community members who lost their battle with life, reveal the multifaceted society of dolphins in Amvrakikos. If we don’t take urgent action to save the bay, one thing is certain: all of us will mourn for the dolphins!

Can animals grieve and be aware of death as humans do? If you have a pet you will definitely answer yes. For science though this answer is not obvious. The relationship of animas with death is a 'forbidden' topic for scientific research -largely because of fear of wrongly attributing human characteristics to animals. However, lately, some experts "dare" to approach it. The observation of different reactions of bottlenose dolphins in Amvrakikos to the death of members of their group is now the subject for such a "subversive" study. The biologist in charge of the project is speaking at "To Vima" about this rare experience and the problems faced not only by the dolphins but by the whole Gulf of Amvrakikos.

--- --- --- ---

(Article)

UNKNOWN ASPECTS OF THE LIFE OF DOLPHINS

by Lalina Fafouti

The newborn dolphin is lying lifeless on the water. Its mother desperately tries to revive it. She lifts it up trying to bring back its breath, touches it with her fins and beak, “calling” at it, but in vain. The little dolphin is dead and she, in despair, seems as if she cannot believe it -it really looks as if she’s grieving.

The scene is heartbreaking, but you probably will not watch it "live". Biologists who have spent decades at sea have never seen such a thing.

Lament of 48 hours!

Joan Gonzalvo Villegas, marine biologist of the Tethys Research Institute (an Italian non-governmental organization specializing in the study of cetaceans), was “lucky” enough to stand witness to this event though. He "fell" into it during his usual survey in the Gulf of Amvrakikos, and not just once. The next day the mother was still there continuing her desperate efforts and mourns. "It seemed as if she could not accept the fact," says the researcher speaking at "To Vima". "This was especially shocking because it meant that the animal behaved this way for at least 48 hours."

The next year Mr. Gonzalvo witnessed a similar incident. A small bottlenose dolphin, two to three months old, apparently ill, swam with difficulty. The other adult members of its team swam around it constantly trying to help it stay on the surface. After a while -about 40 minutes- the little dolphin died. "I expected the mother, or at least the adult dolphin that I thought it was the mother because it was swimming closer to it, to react like the animal we saw the year before," says the biologist. However, this did not happen. Once the corpse sank, the other dolphins left immediately from that point.

Like people?

That got him thinking. Do dolphins react differently to death depending on the circumstances -just like people? "In the first case," he says "the mother seemed not able to come to terms with the sudden death of her newborn –as would happen to me or to you if you lost someone close to you suddenly, for example in a car accident. In the second case it was like dolphins somehow knew that the calf was about to die and stayed with it in order to help and keep it company till the end. "

Grief and the sense of death are considered to be exclusively human qualities. The exploration of such properties in animals was long a "taboo" for scientific research –a "dangerous" issue that only lately some researchers have begun to approach. "The truth is that it is not that well accepted" answers Gonzalvo. "Because it contains a strong subjective element. Such scenes when you see them you feel it in your skin, it is very difficult to evaluate scientifically what is happening. But this is essentially true for every kind of behavioural study in animals. "

Moreover, as explained, the experiences of this kind are relatively rare. "I am of the very few who have seen something like that," he says, "and even if I keep working the same way for the next thirty years I may not see it ever again '. This not only because the laws of probability do not often bring experts in direct contact with scenes of natural death in nature, but also because the appropriate behaviour for a scientist involved in the conservation of species when facing such an event is usually different from the one this particular biologist decided to adopt.

The gain of non-intervention

"Some might ask why, for instance, in the first case I did not immediately take the dead newborn in order to do an autopsy and find out the causes of death," he says. "But as a scientist working for Tethys, where we are trying to be the least intrusive in our research, my priority was to focus more on recording the behaviour of the dolphins. In addition, I wanted to respect the animal, during what to me was a clear indication of some kind of mourning. I felt it was inappropriate for me to intervene. "

If he had intervened, as he notes, he would not have the opportunity to watch what happened or notice the difference in the reactions of the dolphins in the two events. The question of whether animals –or at least social animals like dolphins– have a special sense of death just like humans would not have been born. "Of course this is only an hypothesis," he stresses.

This hypothesis, however, is being examined and he is gathering evidence preparing a broader study not only about dolphins but also about other species. "There are some relevant published scientific papers and for the last couple of years I have been collecting reports from my colleagues and they are quite a few," he says. "Such behaviours are reported not only in cetaceans but also in other highly evolved mammals like chimpanzees or elephants."

Amvrakikos: the last refuge of bottlenose dolphins

The dolphins of Amvrakikos are not special only because they constitute the subject of an original study. In this place of Greece is observed one of the highest densities of bottlenose dolphins in the Mediterranean –a species that has begun to diminish in the Mediterranean waters because of overfishing and pollution. The population of bottlenose dolphins in Amvrakikos remained stable in recent years and the area is a protected wetland –it has been included in the Natura 2000 network and has been declared a national park. However, as Gonzalvo notes, this is not a guarantee for their future.

He brings as an example what happened to the neighbouring Inner Archipelago of the Ionian Sea. This region –which includes Eastern Lefkas, Meganissi and Kalamos and is also integrated to the network Natura 2000– was until recently a "paradise" for the common dolphin (Delphinus delphis) –a species that was once the most widespread in our sea but today its population has shrunk dramatically, and since 2003 it has been declared endangered in the Mediterranean. As a member of Tethys Research Institute, which under international agreements is monitoring the dolphins in these two areas (during the last years with the support of Earthwatch, OceanCare and RAC/SPA), the biologist has "lived" this story from very close.

"Of 150 common dolphins living in the Archipelago in 1996 the population went to 15 in 2006-2007" he says. “The cause according to all evidence is overfishing that led to the depletion of their food. " As he explains, in the area operate relatively few bottom trawlers and purse seiners, but at an intensive rate and aiming mainly epipelagic fish –such as sardines, anchovies and mackerel. "Epipelagic fish are the main food of the common dolphin, but also of tuna and swordfish, two species that have also been greatly reduced in the region."

Rapid environmental degradation

The bottlenose from Amvrakikos have no such problem. On the contrary, they have plenty of food –industrial fishing is prohibited here– and this is a reason why their population is so dense and stable. "But beware," says Gonzavo, "we are talking about a high population density because we have 150 bottlenose dolphins in a particular area. This does not mean they are very abundant. In biological terms, 150 is nothing. And Amvrakikos may not have the problem of overfishing, but there is a severe problem of environmental degradation. "

This sounds paradoxical in a region which consists the largest national park in Greece and is protected by not just one but four different European and international treaties. As the biologist explains, however, the measures designed for the protection of Amvrakikos are incomplete. For example, measures have been taken to protect the fish by prohibiting industrial fisheries. "Only small-scale fisheries are allowed, therefore from an ecological point of view the stocks in Amvrakikos are fully viable," he says. No measures has been taken though to protect the quality of the water.

"The factors that contribute to environmental degradation in Amvrakikos are many", he points out. "The mouth of the bay is too narrow and too shallow. This is the only connection to the open sea, which means that the water circulation inside the gulf is very reduced. " The two major rivers that arrive to Amvrakikos, Louros and Arachthos, as he notes, have a reduced flow because of dams built along them for irrigation and hydroelectric projects. "Furthermore" he adds " apart from the fact that the input of fresh water from the rivers is reduced, their waters are polluted by fertilizers, heavy metals and other polluting elements."

Eutrophication and hypoxia

Another important issue is eutrophication –the growth of bacteria and algae caused by excessive concentrations of nutrients (such as nitrate and phosphate from fertilizers and detergents that 'fall' in the water) and leads to oxygen depletion. Apart from wastewater, says Gonzalvo, extensive fish farming in the region exacerbates the situation. "The fish farms introduce even more organic material, with food thrown in the water and detritus produced by farmed fish that are crowded in high densities in cages."

The problem of eutrophication and hypoxia, which this implies seems to be growing rapidly in recent decades. "Before 20 years," says the biologist "the University of Patras had conducted a study and found that the waters of Amvrakikos below 40 m depth had almost zero oxygen. They repeated the study two years ago and saw that the water with almost zero oxygen began from 20 meters deep. " This means that 70% of the water of Amvrakikos is dead zone. And the impact is already apparent. Two years ago, the mussels that are grown there were found toxic and unfit for consumption. Officially, the cultivation of mussels, clams and other shellfish –which are the most "sensitive" to water quality– has stopped at the bay.

Direct action by government and citizens

Because of all these problems, although the population of bottlenose dolphins in Amvrakikos is still stable, Gonzalvo in his last presentation at the International Marine Conservation Congress last May suggested that they should be declared endangered. "If something is not done," he says "bottlenose dolphins in Amvrakikos will have the fate of the common dolphins of the Archipelago."

This "something", as he stresses, involves not only measures to be taken by the state. The biologist considers equally important the "education" of the public. In this context, as he notes, Tethys participates in the LIFE-Thalassa project with WWF, MOm –Hellenic Society for the Study and Protection of the Monk Seal– and the Pelagos Institute of Cetacean Research. The most urgent in his opinion is to change attitudes.

"I understand that Greece is not facing its best moment right now to give priority to protecting the environment," he says. "But what I think is crucial is to change the perception of the Greeks for nature. I am also from the Mediterranean, I am Spanish, I am Catalan, it is not that we are much better –the Mediterranean is not the best example of proper environmental management. But I love Greece deeply; I first came here twelve years ago, and it makes me sad that you have a wonderful country, one of the best in the world, but Greeks do not realize it. They take its beauty for granted and assume it’s going to stay like this no matter what we do and think, that even if we humans do not do things right, if we do not look after them, they’re going to stay as they are. Excuse me but they are not. Greece is not the same Greece that I had discovered a decade ago. And if the degradation continues at this rate Greece will not be the same in the coming years. "

--- --- --- --- ---

(Text box)

Protection is sought in the Northern Aegean too

Dolphins are protected in Greece under ACCOBAMS, the treaty signed by the countries of the Mediterranean and the Black Sea for the protection of cetaceans. Giuseppe Notarbartolo di Sci;ara, director of Tethys Research Institute, was president of the Scientific Committee of ACCOBAMS for nearly a decade until last year and has a more "global" view of the situation.

The only dolphins officially monitored by Tethys are currently those in the Amvrakikos Gulf and the Inner Ionian Archipelago. This does not mean that these cetaceans, that seem still to hold in our country while they have been decimated in the major part of the Mediterranean, are not facing problems in other parts of Greece.

"We are deeply concerned about the situation of common dolphins, which the last decade have become very rare in the Mediterranean," says Mr. Notarbartolo di Sciara speaking at "To Vima." "We know that there are common dolphins in the Northern Aegean. We do not know how many, we do not know exactly where they are distributed, where their main habitats are, if there are problems with fishing, we know nothing. "

The information comes from fishermen and biologists who work in fish farms in the region of Kavala. Because the common dolphin has been declared endangered throughout the Mediterranean, whatever populations, albeit small, are worthy of protection. "I think it is very important to see what the situation of common dolphins in the Northern Aegean is", he says. "The Northern Aegean region is a productive area compared to most of the Mediterranean because of the rivers, because of the upwelling and oceanographic processes, and I think we should go there and see what happens."

As he says, the means for improving the conditions of the habitat of the dolphins and –our own environment– are there. Last year he prepared for WWF and MOm a strategy for the conservation of cetaceans at a national level, which is just ... waiting to be adopted. "I hope this is done," he says. "I know that the situation is difficult in Greece, but this is not something that will serve as an economic burden because certainly donors will be found for this purpose. I think it is mainly a matter of political will. "

Dead sperm whale adrift

2011-09-09T00:59:00.001+03:00

On Monday night, I received a phone call from our friend and colleague Alexandros Frantzis from the Pelagos Cetacean Research Institute. He had been contacted by the Lefkas Animal Welfare Society (LAWS) to report to him the presence of a "dead large cetacean floating and wrapped up on fishing gear in the coastal waters of western Lefkada".

On Tuesday 6th, in the afternoon, I joined the friends from LAWS to visit the area, and try to find the dead animal. One hour after leaving the port of Lefkas town we encountered the highly decomposed corpse of a sperm whale floating adrift close to the western coast of Lefkada. What was reported initially as fishing gear resulted to be a long rope (like those using on sailing boats), which might indicate that the animal stranded somewhere else in the area several weeks earlier. That rope might have been used unsuccessfully in an attempt to get rid of the dead whale, which eventually ended up drifting towards Lefkada until it was found on Monday. The advanced state of decomposition of the animal (or what was left of it) and its remote location made impossible to tow it to a beach nearby for a more detailed examination.

joAn

Best way to wrap-up the month of August

2011-09-03T14:02:00.008+03:00

I must confess that every time we do a survey in the area of Kalamos, as we leave from the port of Mytikas, I stare at the island that majestically rises in front of us and I cannot avoid but to get momentarily lost in the memories of the good old days spent in our former field base in the tiny village of Episkopi. However, on wednesday 31st August, just one minute after departure, I was suddenly brought back to the present by our Earthwatch volunteers Yolanda and Eri shouting; dolphins! What a sweet way to wake me up. When I looked at the spot they were pointing at it was immediately clear that it was not going to be a "normal" sighting; more than twenty dolphin silhouettes were smoothly gliding through the glassy waters a few hundred meters ahead of us. The adrenaline shot reached its peak when we realized they were common dolphins. I could not even recall when was the last time I had come across a group of commons that size.

For three hours we followed their zig-zagging movements from Mytikas seafront to Skorpios Island, where we decided to interrupt the sighting due to the increasing density of recreational sailing boats in the area and the risk of our presence attracting their attention towards the dolphins. Our best estimate was that the group included 19 adults, one juvenile, 2 calves and 2 newborns. Exhausted but full of joy and hope we headed back to port with more that 1000 digital images to be processed and abundant behavioural data. Preliminary analysis of the digital images has allowed us to identify, so far, 9 adults, two of them constantly accompanied by their offspring, from our common dolphin catalogue. Four of them had been also seen further south a few days earlier by our colleague Elena Politi; and, according to our historic database, all of them had been firstly identified no later that 1996. Despite the dramatic decline suffered by the species in the area starting on the mid nineties, the fact that we still see some animals occasionally moving into their former wonderland gives us hope and shows the importance of maintaining our present survey effort. One could not ask for a better way to wrap-up the month of August.

joAn

Dolphins of Greece in NewScientist magazine

2011-09-01T22:13:00.000+03:00

The question whether cetaceans understand the concept of death is discussed in NewScientist, based on observations done by Tethys Research Institute in the Amvrakikos Gulf with the collaboration of our Earthwatch volunteers.

I take this opportunity to thank you all for your hard work

joAn

An unexpected encounter

2011-08-30T00:27:00.002+03:00

The text below was written a few days ago by my friend and colleague Elena Politi. Back in 1993, with very little more than her enthusiasm and eagerness to study the dolphins inhabiting the beautiful waters of the eastern Ionian Sea, Elena established our first field base in the island of Kalamos and founded the Ionian Dolphin Project. I invite you all to get a glimpse of Elena's emotions when encountering, ten years after her last sighting, a group of common dolphins.

She is the person who gave me the opportunity to come to Greece for the first time in 1999, when I was an unexperienced recently graduated student, to get a taste of the Dolphins of Greece experience; more than a decade later I still feel inspired by her passion for the marine environment, her never-ending energy and continuous advice and support. Thank you Elena!

joAn

---

An unexpected encounter (by Elena Politi)

The holidays are almost over. Two weeks with my family around the waters of Kalamos, Ithaca, Kefalonia and Zakynthos onboard our inflatable boat. This morning we leave from Atoko, an imposing conical island that stands majestically between Ithaca and Kastos.

I have not encountered dolphins yet, except for a striped dolphin we encountered by chance on the way back from Zakynthos, which joined momentarily the bow of our boat.

Today the sea is flat. A surreal calm, muffled by the morning mist, characterizes most of summer days’ early hours in this area.

Today I am in search of dolphins. I cannot go home without my annual dose, given that we now see them only on holidays. Last year we saw a group of bottlenose dolphins, old acquaintances of the project, spectacular to say the least, for their jumps and the curiosity shown towards our boat. An attitude very different from what I remembered from my observations done in the good old days. Back then, they were usually reluctant to get closer, always busy while looking for food in the water column, being visible only when surfacing for physiological reasons.

Today I am eager to have an encounter like that one, and I narrow my eyes while standing at the bow, in order to spot even the smallest signs that may indicate the presence of some animal. The sea does not seem as sadly deserted as in recent years. There are schools of fish jumping around and I see a swordfish preying on a school of anchovies, immediately slipping away under the boat. The other day I also saw four tunas chasing their prey while being surrounded by the inevitable shearwaters. I think it's the right day to see dolphins.

And then, all of a sudden, here they are in the distance: two small black fins, followed by the rounded shape of their back. They seem to be too small to be bottlenose dolphins.... but it is not possible. I cannot believe it. Pragmatically, I must admit, almost superstitiously indeed (shame on a scientist!), I approach them without preconceptions. Mine is a scream of excitement, pure joy: they are common dolphins! And they are numerous, thirteen in all. Three calves, one of which is a newborn, and a couple of juveniles, accompany them. It is a beautiful group of females with their pups who, indolently, swim zigzagging between Meganisi and Kalamos.

How long since I last saw them? I realize with horror that it is exactly ten years. The last time I was eight months pregnant, and we were collecting fragments of tissue from the skin of identified animals for genetic analysis. That was the last time I saw them. Then I left the field work for family reasons and, as the years went by, I read with sadness the data collected by my colleagues, which showed, with scientific coldness and clarity, the slow and inexorable decline of this local population, once so prosperous but now represented only by a few scattered specimens.

Over the years, navigating with my children in these impoverished waters by an insane fishing practice often conducted with illegal methods, without being able to see the unmistakable silhouette of a common dolphin, my thoughts were going back in 1991 when we saw them for the first time from the wheelhouse of the De Gomera (the sailing boat we used back then). An immense group of forty individuals who swam fast porpoising between Lefkas and Meganisi, a narrow channel literally infested with sailboats and motorboats, which felt more like a glimpse of the low Italian Lario (Lake of Como) rather than the typical Hellenic views.There were so many that I had initially thought they were striped dolphins (but what were they doing so close to shore?), and my amazement reached its climax when I realized that they were indeed common dolphins, a species that at that time was already considered a rarity in Italian waters.

For years the situation remained stable. We changed from a sailing to a rubber boat with a more practical research field base located at the exact centre of our study area, at Episkopi on the island of Kalamos. The groups of common dolphins continued to be numerous, at least until 96-97. Their presence was constant, regular and predictable. We could see them from home, from the port, even when we went on foot to fill the tanks of gasoline (yes, in those days we had very little money, a ridiculous boat to say the least and our research was dotted with several breaks of "forced labour"). The common dolphins were our confidence, our pride as researchers. We realized we were dealing with, probably, the only remaining large community of this species in the central Mediterranean. We felt charged with the responsibility to study them deeply, to understand, through them, which were the causes of the species decline in other parts of the Mediterranean, so that in future other similar losses could not occur again.

After 1997, although we would spot them regularly (almost daily), the groups began to be less numerous. Initially, I imagine, none of us had really realized the extent of the process that was taking place. We guessed they probably had a little less fish, but they were always there, as well as other predators that ate their same prey, tuna and swordfish. In a sense, we, who spent eight consecutive hours under the Greek sun to record their movements, behaviour and identity, were almost happy to photoidentify "only" six-ten dolphins at a time rather than a mass of 20-30 animals apparently uncontrollable committed to play hide and seek!

But something was coming up in front of our eyes. The years passed and it started to happen more frequently to scroll through the days without a single sighting of common dolphins. Meanwhile, as I said, I had left the field work and followed from the computer, through endless columns of numbers, the little (big?) drama that was unfolding in that polygon delimited by the Ionian islands. Nowadays, in this area too common dolphins had become a rarity, as happened in Italy fifty years ago. Of the 150 animals living in the area regularly, we could record only a dozen in recent years, which were identified during just two or three sightings in summer months. The sea slowly became a desolate desert. Sightings of tuna, swordfish, schools of anchovies, bonito and yellowtail became also a memory of the past.

For more than a year my colleagues have monitored the main fishing ports in the area. With painstaking patience they have monthly checked the captures landed by the fishing fleet, and quantified it in tonnes per year. The results of their work are incredible. Because of only 21 industrial fishing boats (representing 7% of the entire fleet and counting for 55% of the total biomass removed annually), the whole area has been literally depleted for years of anchovies and sardines, the main prey of common dolphins, tuna and swordfish. In practice, year after year, these boats have taken all (or almost all) what the area could effectively produce in terms of fish, leaving only a few "crumbs" to the other inhabitants of the sea.

The consequence of it is obvious. The common dolphins have just stopped being there, and they have dispersed over a much larger area to look for food resources elsewhere. Leaving aside the eco-biological implications (what happens to these distinctly social animals, for which the group cohesion is as necessary as the food they eat, when they are forced to disperse, disaggregate, thus reducing the quality and quantity of their social interactions as well as, ultimately, their ability to mate?), the result was depressing. To navigate these waters feels now like passing through that countryside parched by the passage of the urban and industrial civilization. Biodiversity has been drastically reduced to a few persistent marine species that feed and grow fat because of nutrients discharged daily by the ever-growing fish farms.

Back to the present hot day, it is therefore understandable my enthusiasm, almost childlike, in having seen such a large a group of common dolphins. This summer, Joan (Gonzalvo, actual responsible of the Ionian Dolphin Project) had spotted them only once, in June, and they were three animals. Today they are more numerous and there are calves. They’re not sociable (it's true, there are mothers taking care of and concerned about their offspring, who constantly keep me away), they don’t seem to be feeding, but resting. They do not come bow-riding or scouting. Even the juveniles, generally the most fearless and playful, keep their distance from our boat. When a motorboat passes by, their wave-riding across the resulting wake seems vaguely tired and lazy.

But all in all they are here. And there is fish around. And there are other predators. And I really hope that one day these wonderful creatures - most of them friends given that everyone has a name, Pepe, Daphne, Nigel, Max, and a date for each meeting – may be able to return to repopulate the seas of Ionian Greece, to amaze us with their fascinating behaviour. Well, this hope today is a bit more alive than before. There is still a long way to go, to implement effective conservation measures, which for years Tethys and other colleagues have been stubbornly promoting. A little effort is necessary to give the possibility to these dolphins to recover to their original level. But talking about it with young Greeks, who seemed genuinely concerned about the marine environment, I got the feeling that the future can give us hope, a really tough one to die.

p.s. The day after the encounter with the common dolphins, a few miles further south we encountered a group of nine striped dolphins that Joan had seen ten days before in the same area. Two days after, Joan told me that he found again the commons. This time they were 15: the same individuals I had met plus some more. Could all this really be a sign of recovery of the coastal marine ecosystem of Ionian Greece?

Public awareness initiative in Vonitsa

2011-08-18T22:12:00.000+03:00

On the evening of the 16th of August, framed by the beautiful medieval castle of Vonitsa in the town's seafront, Tethys Research Institute held a public presentation on the research activities conducted in the Gulf of Amvrakikos during the last decade aimed at the conservation of its highly resident population of bottlenose dolphins and on preserving the biodiversity of this unique semi-closed ecosystem. The event was attended by a large part of the local community as well as numerous visitors from overseas. The Municipality of Vonitsa provided all the logistic support necessary for the event. The presentation was delivered by Ioannis Giovos, our Greek research assistant from the University of Thessaloniki. After the presentation he responded to the question posed by the audience.

Representatives of some schools of the region attending the event manifested their interest on Tethys personnel organizing similar presentations to their students during Spring 2012, before the beginning of the research season. Since the beginning of this project we have tried to increase awareness among the local communities about the status and value of dolphins in the area. We are trying to raise interest in dolphin conservation and marine ecosystems. The positive reaction received encourages us to continue and shows that we are on the right track.

joAn

Dolphins of Greece, volunteers 8-15 August

2011-08-17T12:51:00.000+03:00

Dear Joan and Ioannis, working with you and the Earthwatch team of volunteers was a wonderful experience. Everyone was kind and helpful and worked well together. The dolphins were wonderful! Thanks for sharing your expertise and being great team leaders.

Lynne (USA)

---

How can one not be impressed by Greece? The sun, landscape, company and sea. I can see why your lives have been dedicated to this place and this cause. There has been no room for complaints or disappointment. I am overwhelmed with information and thankful for the experience. Go forth warriors of the sea and spread the word ! I am sure I will be back to scan the horizon once more and look for the undulating rolls of dolphins. Next time though, can we do without the dead sea turtle? Thank you both for the memories.

Kimberley (Canada)

---

Thank you so much for the wonderful experience this week has been for me. As a complete novice to the dolphin world, I am really impressed by how patient you have been in helping me to understand both the work you are doing here and the lives of dolphins. I look forward to spreading the word about your project when I get home. Keep up the good work.

Barbara (UK )

---

I just have to say that I had the time of my life here in Vonitsa and I cannot thank both of you (Joan and Ioannis) enough for the experience. Even though you did not allow me to take back the sea turtle (just joking), the fieldwork, lectures, food, comfort of accommodation… Everything was way above my expectations. Food wise, the Greek salad with that thick olive oil was always great to have, the Italian wine with the proper Italian pasta was amazing, and the musaka and lamb was of course, fantastico!

The conversations and discussions we had at the dining table and balcony made me think so much about all the issues we are facing… On top of reading as many reports as possible and broadening my knowledge, I will make sure to spread the words to friends, relatives, strangers, so that the most ignorant country of marine issues would have the possibility in changing.
Thank you so much once again for everything!!!!
Sho (Japan)

Dolphins of Greece, volunteers 14-21 July

2011-08-17T12:38:00.001+03:00

This trip has exceeded my expectations in every way! Joan and Ioannis are a terrific team to work with. Joan is serious and deeply passionate about his research and I cannot help but feel the same enthusiasm. He is a great teacher, all the while quick to smile and keeping a sense of humor about him. I have valued our frequent conversations about life in general – politics, economics, culture, movies, people – as much as I have enjoyed our conversations about cetacean behavior. Ioannis is the perfect counter-part, an intelligent, even-keeled young man with impeccable integrity. I will return from this trip far “richer” than when I started thanks to the two of them. This trip has also succeeded in changing my behavior now that I have learned so much about the global threats to fisheries worldwide, and dolphins in particular. Kudos to you both! I hope to see you again.

Doug (USA)

---

This trip has definitely been a life changing experience. Coming here I had no idea what to expect, besides that I would see dolphins and also do some work. I fell in love with this program. Seeing the dolphins, of course, was amazing, but I loved the lectures that Joan gave us. I loved learning about the dolphins, other sea mammals, and also the problems that the Amvrakikos Gulf faces. I had no idea that there was so many problems with it. This whole program has made me more aware of the problems that the ocean faces. Besides everything that I have learned about the dolphins and the gulf, I have also thoroughly enjoyed getting to know the people that I have been working with. Joan and Ioannis make a great team and are great to work with. They are both very passionate about what they do and that definitely inspires me. I loved hearing about the different cultures of each of us and also experiencing one. I hope that I can come to Vonitsa, Greece again and partake in this amazing endeavour, but if not, it was an experience that I will never forget.

Lauren (USA)

---

“Dolphins of Greece” was an amazing and incredible experience but also very intense. Intense not only because of all the very interesting knowledge that Joan and Gionnis instilled us but because of the emotions felt when seeing and working with dolphins. I was at first speechless when seeing the dolphins and throughout the week when Joan was telling us about his experience with them and all the issues that they face in the Gulf and around the world in general, I realised it was time for people to react and spread the word all around…At least I will for sure spread the word all around me and hopefully it will bring more volunteers to that unbelievable project. This experience was also a great opportunity to meet people of different countries, cultures and share our opinions on different aspects of life,and Joan, Ioannis and the other volunteers are the perfect example for it. And I can say that I have never laughed so much in my life! I hope this project will go on as long as possible because the dolphins need us!

Margaux (France)

---

Breathtaking, exhilarating, endearing, extremely educational, heartfelt and probably the best thing Greece has to offer! Vonitsa is so beautiful and quaint. The team was awesome and fun. The friendships that were developed here will always have a special bonding that occurred due to this enchanting environment and sharing in witnessing the magnificence of the dolphins. These beautiful animals of the sea can only make your heart and soul soar with delight. Joan and Ioannis are such compassionate men who truly are dedicated to the welfare of the ocean and all its inhabitants. Their dedication is to be admired and applauded. It is an experience and education that I will never forget and hope to continue to pass on this knowledge through my blog and anyone and everyone who will listen to me!

Jan (USA)

A "striping" incident in Kalamos

2011-08-13T21:01:00.000+03:00

It was the beginning of the week for our new team of Earthwatch volunteers. One hour after leaving Mytikas, we came across a dolphin group on the eastern side Kalamos Island. Initially, we were surprised by the size of the group. They were about 20 individuals swimming quietly in a tight formation; something pretty rare for any of the two dolphin species historically present in the area (short-beaked common dolphins and common bottlenose dolphins). The surprise came when we recognised the beautifully patterned striped dolphins. This was the second sighting for the species in the core of the study area in over 20 years of regular research.

Striped dolphins are known as curious creatures that frequently interact with boats. The sighting lasted two hours and for most of the time we had no less that 5 individuals bow-riding and “checking us out”. The calm crystal-clear waters provided opportunity to observe them occasionally socializing right below us. It was quite a performance fully completed by regular aerial behaviour and breaching on both sides of our inflatable. Three days after this event, we still cannot erase a silly smile from our faces while writing these lines.

An unusual encounter like this highlights the importance of continuing to monitor this former paradise, which used to give us many moments like this but that unfortunately, nowadays are more and more rare. Definitely… striping!

Ioannis & Joan

Dolphins of Greece VIDEO!!

2011-07-16T01:45:00.000+03:00

For those of you who miss it and for those who are considering joining us...
Just have a look at it and... enjoy!!

joAn

Great start in Kalamos (II)

2011-06-14T21:02:00.001+03:00

With our last team of Earthwatch volunteers we spent the first two days surveying the waters surrounding the beautiful island of Kalamos (Inner Ionian Sea Archipelago). The spirits were high after the short-beaked common dolphin sighting we had on our last day with the previous team. This time we did not find common dolphins, but we had an incredible encounter with a group of six botllenose dolphins that were socializing very intensively just a few metres away from our boat. We stayed with them for more than two hours collecting valuable data on their different behaviours while carrying out continuous photoidentification effort and taking back home over 200 photos. Josh, Jet and Ioannis (my brand-new Greek research assistant) did a great job, once back at Vonitsa’s field station, and identified all six group members based on natural marks on their dorsal fins. Four of them were well-know individuals that have been repetitively seen in the area for more than a decade. Particularly active during the sighting was “Similmoon”; a female constantly accompanied by her young, which was first seen as a newborn back in 2008. Last but not least, special mention must be made to the sixth group member, which had never been seen before in the area and has been a new addition to our photo-Id catalogue.

Of about 100 bottlenose dolphins photoidentified in the Inner Ionian Sea Archipelago during the last two decades, about one quarter have shown high levels of site fidelity, while other are transients. The situation is quite different in the Amvrakikos Gulf, our main study area, where about 150 dolphins inhabiting its waters show a high degree of residency despite the increasing degradation of this semi-enclosed ecosystem.

joAn

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 7-14 June 2011

2011-06-14T11:09:00.002+03:00

Understanding that nature is unpredictable, I never expect much from any expedition. Despite the fact that we didn’t see any dolphins in our first day at Kalamos, we witnessed the amazing social interaction (e.g. leaping) of bottlenose dolphins in our second outing near the a local fish farm. Other activities like photo-id matching, watching documentaries and presentations have deepened my understanding of the relationship between marine mammals and human beings. If you want a close encounter with bottlenose dolphins, this expedition is definitely for you!

Jet (USA)

---

This expedition is great, Joan has a great passion for dolphins and the marine environment and it is very easy to see. This enthusiasm makes the trip much more worthwhile and you can see that he appreciates you being there to help. I would recommend this to anyone interested in anything to do with the marine world. I saw dolphins more days than I didn’t, I saw them socialising, feeding, resting and I even heard them playing. As long as you understand it's not just a holiday and there is science and work to be done, you will have a great time as the balance between the work and experience is very good.

Josh (UK)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 29 May-4June 2011

2011-06-06T11:23:00.000+03:00

Wonderful experience. Each day was different and special. The first day we saw up to 50-60 total dolphins; a wonderful way to begin. The second day we saw only 2 but got to stay with them for about 2 hours to see a large variety of behaviors. The last day was special as we left the Gulf and got the rare opportunity to watch the behavior of 3 common dolphins, which is very rare because this species has almost vanished from its former paradise. This experience was very special for me. I have been on three other cetacean studies and this one had by far the most intimate and longest encounters allowing me to observe a wide diversity of behaviors. Thank you for a great experience and good luck with the rest of the project. I will continue to spread the word!

Seena (USA)

---

Hola Joan! Thank you for an amazing experience, I think you are doing a very important work and I am glad I got to be a part of it, even for just 8 days. I’m sad to be leaving so soon. I feel like I am at a important point in my life (just graduated from college) and I really have no idea what to do with my future. I think this experience has given me a little direction, mainly confirming that I want to support and promote conservation of the ocean and all the creatures that live in it. It’s so easy in NYC to forget how closely people depend on the ocean to survive and make a living in an area that is suffering directly from the neglect we show towards our oceans. This was a unique and eye-opening experience. It’s so easy to get overwhelmed and depressed when considering what we have done and continue to do to the planet, but to see so many dolphins still in the wild and to see that the scientists who are studying them are hopeful is kind of reassuring. We still have a long way to go so keep up the good work! thanks for letting me be a part of it, I had an incredible time.

Alex (USA)

---

Another Earthwatch completed for me, but this one has been especially meaningful due to the dedication, knowledge and skill of you, Joan. Your concern for the future of the dolphins was obvious and rare in our world of self-interest, greed and unconcern for the future of the planet. Fortunately, you, and like individuals, may be able to provide the scientific information and informed leadership to save, not only these marvellous mammals, but also, man himself. I try to be hopeful. The careful planning and detail of the program allowed me to experience a unique interaction with the dolphins. The thrill of observing these animals in their natural environment was exhilarating. The identification of various individuals provided me the opportunity to be more observant of specific characteristics. The informative aspects of the week allowed for in-depth discussions among the participants. In addition, it was great fun. I hope that necessary funding and support continue to come to Vonitsa and your dolphin project; best wishes for the future.

Jerry (USA)

Great start in Kalamos

2011-06-04T23:54:00.003+03:00

Today we had the first survey in the waters surrounding Kalamos Island, a Natura 2000 area also know as Inner Ionian Sea Archipelago. Those of you familiar with our work in Western Greece already know that this area, a former hotspot for the endangered Mediterranean short-beaked common dolphin, has been heavily impacted by overfishing which has resulted on the collapse of local fish stocks leading to the almost complete disappearance of the species from the area because of prey depletion.

Well, we have good news for you. Today, as we left the port of Mytikas, we came across a group of three common dolphins! We spent two hours monitoring their movements, recording their behavior and doing photoidentification. Two of them resulted to be well-know individuals that were also seen in the area last year; one of them -Max- was identified for the first time in the area in 1994, while the third one had not have enough distinctive marks to allow its identification. We saw them occasionally socializing and doing surface feeding. We could not ask for a better start of the 2011 season in the Kalamos area.

The decision of continuing monitoring the beautiful waters of the Archipelago when we closed our former field base in the Island of Kalamos back in 2008 has proven to be the right decision. Our continued effort has showed that although the population of common dolphins has decreased dramatically, a few animals are still present and they likely roam across a much wider area, occasionally moving into their former wonderland.

joAn

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 4-11 May 2011

2011-05-11T13:37:00.000+03:00

My thoughts immediately turn to what a difference my life will be from this point forward. Having said that, sharing knowledge on how to make a difference in the lives of other inhabitants of our planet earth. Joan is a pivotal tipping point, his mission to draw attention to the daily lives of these beautiful creatures is one thing, his desire to limit the impact of possible disruptions to our environment, on purpose or by accident are things everyone should consider to be a priority. The research brings you to the door, and the dolphins invite you to come on in and have some fun. Life is good. The closeness of the experience allows eye contact, the chance to smell dolphin breath, and view visual social interactions. The research facility is very comfortable, and attractive. The city of Vonitsa is not the least bit intimidating, surrounded by beautiful hills, and a fabulous waterfront. My favourite interaction was observing the cooperative efforts by the dolphins, to make bubbles trap the fish and proceed to feast on the prey, unforgettable. Thank you Joan, Miriam, Lauren, Ellen, Darlene, the best dolphin researchers ever!

Bob (USA)

---

Well, this past week has been quite an experience for me. The amount of information we received was incredible. I feel I have been living in a tunnel with my lack of specific knowledge about the ocean's overfishing and other concerns. Being able to take part in this research and observe the dolphins in their natural environment, the companionship of our group, and of course, "Posi" who helped to provide my dog fix while away from my own companions all contributed to the quality of the stay. Earthwatch and Tethys are awesome organizations. I promise to work hard to spread the word to others.

Joan has an incredible passion for the dolphins and the marine environment which he shares with us very well. Enriching the lives where we live about what I have learned will be my next project when I return home. Thank you all very much Joan, Miriam, Lauren, Ellen and, of course, photographer, Bob for enriching my life. The laughter will not be forgotten.

Darlene (USA)

---

The experience of the week here in Vonitsa was amazing, highlighted by numerous unforgettable dolphin observations. Getting up each morning to the sun shining over the Gulf with a promise of studying such magnificent mammals was exciting and something we looked forward to each day. The weather was fabulous and the dolphins provided a variety of encounters from bow riding to resting to frenzied feeding – we were able to observe their natural behaviours on their terms without disruption. At the end of the transits the trip back to port with the castle as a landmark to guide us never lost its appeal.

Back at the loft learning how to crop, match and identify the dolphins we spotted provided insight into the population and the ongoing research by Joan and his teams. Joan’s presentations in the late afternoon prompted us with numerous questions and provided a global awareness of the fishing industry and the impact of the decisions we make as consumers. His enthusiasm was contagious amongst the team, with us often asking him questions all at once. Outside of the project hours, time spent relaxing at the local café, walking around the small town of Vonitsa, discovering the castle, exploring the small island nearby and taking in the shoreline added to the week. Aside from the dolphins sightings the laughter shared at supper will be most fondly remembered.

Special thanks to Joan and Miriam for their hospitality, guidance and for sharing their passion for cetaceans. As a teacher and a biologist, we will take what we have learned and share it with our families, students and colleagues in a small effort to continue the work of conserving the ocean’s precious resources.

Lauren and Ellen (Canada)

First 10 dolphin sightings in Amvrakikos

2011-05-09T20:16:00.000+03:00

Today I had my tenth sighting since I arrived at the Vonitsa field Station of the Dolphins of Greece expedition. As a research assistant I have worked with two groups of Earthwatch volunteers so far. It has been a very rich and profitable experience. Although I had worked with cetaceans in the wild before, I must say it has been a pretty different approach for me. In Amvrakikos I had the chance to observe dolphin behaviour closer than anywhere else. During these past 4 weeks we had spectacular sightings where bottlenose dolphins displayed a wide range of behaviours; from surface feeding surrounded by large flocks of seabirds, to socializing and resting. This new experience has given me the chance to learn new methodologies and apply them in the field. Thanks to Joan, a great teacher, I made the most of my stay here. The Gulf is most certainly a unique place to learn and study these magnificent creatures in the wild.

I also enjoyed the everyday work with volunteers! They impressed me with their enthusiasm and eagarness to learn by getting actively involved in our research and conservation activities. Under Joan's supervision I showed them how to process digital images taken in the field, record behavioural data during group follows and how to interpret the dolphins activities in the field. Their help is crucial and in many cases I would have been lost without them!

In a couple of days I am heading back to Barcelona but I will be back in Vonitsa in September for another month of field work. Looking forward to it!

Miriam (Catalonia) - Research Assistant of the Dolphins of Greece expedition

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 25 April-2 May 2011

2011-05-02T16:47:00.002+03:00

The expedition was everything promoted in the literature and more. The research is for real and Joan willingly shares his vast knowledge of dolphins. His enthusiasm for his studies is contagious and by the end of our first outing all participants were won over and eager to share in gathering and processing the data gathered. Dolphins really are magical beings and seem to exude delight and optimism. Joan runs his expeditions with a perfect balance between making every effort to see that the members enjoy themselves, experience genuine Greek culture, and become more aware of the challenges facing humankind if we wish to see the world’s oceans restored to robust health.

The outings are the centrepiece of the expedition and once at sea, Joan is all business, as any serious researcher should be. His expectations of the participants are necessarily high, but achievable, since he is seeking clear and accurate information. We all came away knowing we had made genuine contributions to Joan’s work. Vonitsa itself is a quiet and authentic small Greek town with many nice cafes and bars where you can enjoy a coffee after an outing or something more in the early evening.

Robert (USA)

---

This has been a great opportunity to meet new people and spend a week learning about dolphins, fishing, the ecology of oceans, and play a small role in research I would otherwise never have known existed. The dolphin sighting expeditions are far more engaging (and challenging) than any dolphin watching tour. Just going out to look at dolphins would get pretty boring after the second day, but actively scouting, keeping track of different groups, closely watching behaviour, and hearing Joan’s commentary makes each sighting a unique experience. Joan’s passion and knowledge make his lectures and spontaneous Q&A’s enjoyable and more educational than I had expected. Being in the middle of a region struggling with the effects of overfishing and spending time with people who are deeply about that and other ecological/environmental dangers the ocean is facing really does make these issues feel real, important, and solvable.

I also enjoyed the small group of volunteers. It’s a good way to meet people with a wide variety of backgrounds and a common sense of adventure and interest in environmental and scientific issues. The organization of living quarters, research duties, and meals are well designed to promote a lot of interaction and let people get to know each other. Having volunteers prepare their own dinners in turn is especially enjoyable.

And lastly the town of Vonitsa and nearby towns are terrific places to spend some quiet time. By coincidence we happened to be here for the festival celebrating the first of May and walked out to the island to watch the dancing and horse “riding”. Without hesitation they shared a large portion of one of their freshly prepared lambs, and we had an excellent lunch.

Rob (USA)

---

We walked down to the harbour past orange and lemon trees, past cats waiting hopefully next to a fishing boat. Vonitsa was sleepy, with a few people drinking coffees and smoking in the seafront bars. Only the swifts moved quickly, manoeuvring a few inches above the ground or sea to catch insects.

Out on the sea, everything changed. We made a sighting thanks to a group of gulls, circling and diving over a group of feeding dolphins. The water boiled, fins surfaced and flukes thrashed. Several dolphins were working together to circle and confuse the fish, then feed on them. The seagulls also took a share, and helped us work out where to look for the next leaping dolphin… two to our right, three straight ahead, one to the left and a few behind us… we were surrounded! We tried to watch all the action, but inevitably could only see a fraction of what was going on because it happened so quickly. Gradually the dolphins dispersed, leaving the sea calm again.

During the week, we were lucky enough to watch dolphins feeding several times, as well as seeing them resting, socialising and travelling together in a group, and we even had one bow ride our boat briefly. It was a great experience not only to observe them in their natural habitat, but also to learn about them and to take part in research which will help ensure they survive and thrive.

Roz (UK)

Back on track!

2011-04-20T19:46:00.004+03:00

Dolphins of Greece expedition is back on track! Today we carried out our first survey in the Amvrakikos Gulf. The conditions were perfect; a beautiful sunny day, perfect sea state conditions... but wait... something was missing... onboard we were only two!, myself and Miriam (our new research assistant from Barcelona). Unfortunately, for the first team of the present research season we had no volunteers. Since we have a minimum effort coverage to do per month and there are not so many days left of April, we were forced to go out anyway to make sure that our data was consistent with previous years. It would have been much better to have more observers (earthwachers) onboard, but despite the reduced crew number we managed to collect useful data.

I personally could not wish a better start. We were for close to two hours with a group of 7 adult bottlenose dolphins, which spent most of their time feeding at the surface on a school of sardines, permanently surrounded by a large flock of seagulls that were diving around the dolphins as "Kamikazees" to catch their valuable prey. An old friend was there leading the group; MAX, a well-known dolphin which I named after my youngest nephew ;-), identified for the first time back in 2001. It felt good to be back on track after the Winter's break. Let's hope that no more teams have to be cancelled because of low volunteer recruitment and that from now on we will be able of sharing this amazing experience and much more with all of you.

This is the first post of year 2011. From now on "Dolphins in a bottle" will be bringing you news and experiences from Earthwatch's Dolphins of Greece expedition. Do not forget to check it out regularly for the latest updates. And remember, we need you! so if you are considering to join our project, do not think twice, your can make the difference!

joAn

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 2-9 October 2010

2010-10-11T15:20:00.004+03:00

I have had a wonderful week, seeing so many different dolphin behaviours and many sea birds including flamingos, cormorants and terns. Marina and Joe have made it special with their enthusiasm and anecdotes of a broad range of experiences in the field. I shall return to work refreshed and with an enhanced understanding of the importance of dolphins in their ecosystem.

Kate (UK)

---

It was an amazing week from several points of view – to meet so different and interesting people and to work together in such a wonderful project. I learned a lot about the dolphins, their life and behaviour, about the sea – how big, how great and at the same time how unprotected it is. When you learn something new, that really touches your mind, you start to think in a different way and consequently you change your deeds. Moreover, you try to share this experience with the other people and hopefully can make the surrounding world a little bit better. I also hope that the data we have managed to collect will be helpful for the further scientific work. This week in Vonitsa impressed me a lot and I would like to say thank you very much to Marina and Joe and all the people from our Team.

Eugenia (Russia)

---

Thanks to the weather, to a great team, to the dolphins and to Greece. It was a wonderful time and experience I have got. I do not think I would be able to get such an experience anywhere else and I hope I made a tiny contribution to the process of improvement of the environment. Let’s hope that the next teams and generations see how beautiful it is. Dolphins are wonderful creatures and have their right to survive as all the rest creatures in the world. The project was organised on very high professional level, exactly what was required for the effective work and team building exercise. My personal gratitude to Marina and Joe, for their professionalism and kind attention to the team, they were able to create the right atmosphere to give the feeling to every member of the importance of their contribution. The whole team was excellent, and everyone had a chance to use his or her knowledge and experience. I learned a lot, I hope to continue to cooperate with Earthwatch institute to take part in future projects. I wish all the best and every success to Tethys in their difficult and generous task. Thanks again and all the best!

Sergey (Kazakhstan)

---
Our week in Vonitza has been amazing. Marina’s enthusiasm for her subject (botany excluded?) and life in general made all the week a joy, not just the dolphin recording and watching. Flamingos, seagulls, schools of small fish boiling the sea waters, exploring islands and local community living, all added to the experience in which watching dolphins bow-riding was the highlight. Joe’s helpful, good-humour and interest in the work encouraged us. He and Marina worked (worked well together to make up the whole brilliant team) with an interesting group of fellow volunteers. Thank you to all who made the week possible.

Judith and George (UK)

Bug bite

2010-10-05T12:51:00.004+03:00

I set out at the beginning of this experience with the aim of broadening my understanding of cetaceans and hoped to use it to gain more of an insight into the field of Cetology. I’ve always held a deep fascination for the sea and all its inhabitants. So, when I was lucky enough to be offered this opportunity to get to know it a little bit better, I was really thrilled.

After almost 8 months of waiting for the time to depart on this journey, I arrived in Vonitsa, like a sponge, ready to absorb as much as I could. I will be the first to admit that I might have glamorized the whole concept of studying dolphins in my head, during the last 8 months. However, Joan was quick to bring my head out of the clouds and put feet back down on the ground. Right from the very beginning I learned that working on a project with volunteers involved three separate but equally important skills. The first being able to help in the data collection whilst conducting surveys and then be able to analyse the photos of every encounter. The second, was being able to communicate and connect with the volunteers in a way that provided them with the means to play their own role in the projects development. The final skill was taking care of the domestic affairs. I was surprised to see the amount of effort that had to go into keeping the day-to-day functioning of the project running smoothly and tried my best to keep it that way. Although, whether I succeeded in that final respect is up to Joan. Still, all this effort paled into insignificance whenever I reflected on how lucky I was to be in a position where encounters with wild dolphins were an almost daily pleasure.

The peak of this joy was on the 18th September, in Kalamos of all places. It was business as usual at the Tethys field base. Arising early with the sunrise, we left bleary-eyed from our base in Vonitsa, in the Amvrakikos Gulf. We drove to the nearby area of Kalamos from where we were to embark on what most of us had resigned ourselves to as a survey without much hope. As we cast off from the Mytikas, Joan the principle investigator (a title given to him, much to his own distaste) drove our small rib into an ethereal mist shrouding the nearby island of Kalamos. A former watery Eden, up until 1997 had a healthy population of 150 common dolphins. Sadly, however, the population suffered a dramatic decline, from about 150 to 15 in just 15 years. This was primarily the result of overfishing, which led to the depletion of their prey. However, a mere ten minutes into our survey, Joan calls out excitedly, “Dolphins, three o’clock, horizon!” We all spin round and gaze expectantly at the area that Joan has steered the boat towards. We stare intently for the next thirty seconds and with no dorsal fin sighted, we thought perhaps Joan had been mistaken. Then, they surfaced again! Black shapes arching majestically out of the water, around 500 metres straight in front of us. Delighted, there was a collective intake of breath as the sheer size of the pod that we had found became apparent. At least 10 individuals were cruising along in front of the boat. However, the best was yet to come. Joan calls out “They’re common dolphins!”. Utterly astonished, we all jumped to our stations, Joan and myself yelling out instructions. Joan’s excitement, infectious. Elated calls from our volunteers began raining in providing us valuable information on dolphin numbers and location with respect to our boat, by putting into practice the well rehearsed procedures, originally taught role-playing on the beach back in Vonitsa and honed during a week spent observing the bottlenose dolphins of the Amvrakikos Gulf. We were lucky enough to remain with them for the next three hours, trying to collect as much data as possible on this important encounter. We watched with delight as they lounged about, just stretching near the surface. The day was topped off by a sighting of a newborn common dolphin, who like any regular kid, was bursting with energy keeping the adults from resting. However, despite the feeling of euphoria on board, the passing-by of two large bottom trawlers, heading to their fishing grounds, provided a sobering reminder that lessons had still not been learnt.

During the journey back to port, the atmosphere onboard the zodiac was palpable. Each member talked animatedly about such and such a sighting that they had had, despite the fact that we had all seen the same. Finally, it was with a feeling of great satisfaction, contentment and pride that we all disembarked from the boat. We drove back to Vonitsa exhausted, but with the knowledge that we had all witnessed something special.

For me personally, this experience was the culmination of three years of hard work in getting to where I hoped to be and sheer good luck that I had been offered this opportunity. I write this with two weeks of this incredible adventure to go and feel incredibly privileged to have had the opportunity to meet such a wide range of people from all over the world; to be able to work with such a beautiful species in their natural environment; and to have been taught so much by Joan and Marina, who, together, offer a staggering amount of knowledge and insight. They have both, each in their own unique and completely different way, conveyed a feeling that will be hard to forget. I fear I have been bitten by the same "bug" and it will be with a heavy heart that I finally leave to return to England, but also a content one, knowing that this experience has been everything that I could have wished it to be.

Joe Treddenick
Research assistant, Coastal Dolphins Greece

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 21-28 September 2010

2010-09-28T19:54:00.004+03:00

Thanks to the staff (including Posi) for sharing your dolphins with us. I am glad we had a couple of wonderful weather days to witness these special animals and I hope the data collected continues to benefit their health.

Jean (USA)

---

Participating in field research has been extremely interesting, with the help of Joan, Joe and especially the dolphins. The week has certainly caused me to re-examine my place in the whole ecosystem, from scuba diving to home aquariums to fishing and multiple other aspects of my daily life that I didn’t think about much in the past. Thanks to all who made this week possible.

Kim (USA)

---

The weather didn’t cooperate very well but due to the extraordinary efforts of Joan and Joe we were able to maximize the experience. I appreciated the detailed explanations of the nuts and bolts of marine research. I look forward to reading the forthcoming papers.

Tom (USA)

---

This was my opportunity to return to Vonitsa and the dolphins for the second year. I have dreamed of this week for the last 12 months, and memories did not fail. The quiet pace of Vonitsa with the freshest of air, combined with sparkling water and socializing dolphins… a truly special experience. Thank you, Earthwatch and Tethys. May all our best wishes come true for the creatures of our oceans!

Karin (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 12-19 September 2010

2010-09-20T11:54:00.003+03:00

Thanks for the great time in Vonitsa. We had 4 days of dolphin sightings and they were all different and special. The most beautiful day was on Saturday when we saw 10 common dolphins around Kalamos island. That made me very happy and gave me a feeling that there is still hope. To live so close with the other volunteers was a bit scary in the beginning. But I feel that we are a wonderful group and we became close friends. I laughed so much the last week. I am sure that we will keep in touch. I loved being with you all on that trip.
Joan, you are a wonderful (and very handsome) instructor with a lot of knowledge and passion. Thanks for everything. I had a wonderful time. Joe, keep on going. No matter in which direction. Keep on travelling. Thanks for everything.

Vanessa (Germany)

---

This was my 28th Earthwatch expedition so I knew it would be another great experience and indeed I was very ,very pleased with the whole project. We had splendid sightings and an amazing turn of good fortune when we were able to study a pod of common dolphins; something which had not been observed here for several years. It was a delight to have a team with volunteers from Switzerland, Germany, Australia and 2 of us from California. The friendship and camaraderie was excellent and I feel we will be keeping in touch. The actual work was VERY interesting, and even when no dolphins were observed we were surrounded by beautiful scenery and splendid weather. Meals were excellent and quite often we succumbed to the temptations of local restaurants. Joan, our team leader, showed incredible knowledge about the dolphins, seeming to be aware of their location and able to predict where they would emerge. He is able to memorise their positions, location, numbers in groups, all in a whirlwind of action at times. Joe, too has a splendid grasp of all the activity . A wonderful opportunity to observe dolphins, create new bonds of friendship , AND … very important… help protect these amazing creatures.

George (USA)

---

I want to tell you how much I enjoyed this exciting meeting with the dolphins. When I saw "my first one ever" my heart missed a beat! I will not forget being surrounded by these elegant, wonderful animals. Great to see newborns with their mothers, too! Special thanks go to Joan and Joe. On this team I got more exciting information than on any of my previous 12 Earthwatch expeditions due to Joan and his great knowledge and outstanding love for dolphins. Joe was very helpful and patient. As we were a team with only 5 members, we were very dependent on each other and now, at the end of the project we can say goodbye to real friends who we shall never forget. We had happy days together and laughed a lot but with my poor English I could not fully understand and follow all the jokes. Back home at Zurich with my memories, I will still be close to the project and I hope it will continue with your affection and care for the dolphins. Thanks so much for this wonderful and memorable experience!

Anneliese (Switzerland)

---

Vonitsa and it’s dolphins have been all I expected plus more. Seeing the animals in their natural habitat was wonderful. Joan, sharing your knowledge of the dolphins helped me to better understand their nature and not expect what the aquariums show us. Especially exciting was seeing the common dolphins on our last day. Your enthusiasm as well as Joe's let us know how special this sighting was. Joe, you were so helpful and friendly, thank you. Good luck to you in whatever you decide to do. The village has been so friendly, the environment so pretty and the weather collaborated to make it a perfect Earthwatch experience. Of course the team members were one of the top ingredients; we all worked so well together. I will recommend the project to my friends.

Nikki (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 3-10 September 2010

2010-09-10T19:20:00.006+03:00

7 wonderful days in Vonitsa. Watching wild dolphins was my long-time dream and finally it came true. I hope future generations can enjoy such experience. I want to study more about dolphins, animals, the whole environment, and act to achieve sustainable earth. Joan, I could hardly understand your jokes, but I liked to see everyone laughing at them. You are so good at creating a cheerful mood. It was a pleasure to be with you. Thank you very much for everything! I will never forget that boat! Joe, I was so lucky to meet you at the bus terminal by accident. Thanks a lot for your kindness. Good luck in your future!

Emi (Japan)

---

We had an absolutely, amazingly, wonderful time! The project is extremely well organized from the second we arrived to the moment we had to leave. We quickly learned that we were not here to just quietly watch dolphins. We were here to be a part of a real field research project! While our hearts broke to hear about the decline of dolphins around Kalamos, we treasured the precious moments with the dolphins of the Amvrakikos Gulf. Watching a juvenile dolphin jump in the air and groups of dolphins glide through the calm water was pure joy. Listening to the dolphins exhale, especially the “asthmatic” one, truly touched our souls. Of course, the last day was the most fantastic; as we were surrounded by dolphins, Joan switched off the engine and exclaimed “THIS is Amvrakikos!” and time stopped and for that moment we felt his passion for the dolphins and this beautiful place, which will stay in our hearts forever. We know the dolphins' future is in great jeopardy, as is their ocean home, and we promise to do what we can and to tell anyone that will listen about our experience. Because no matter how dismal the situation maybe, we can never stop being their voices, so that in the future, we can still loudly yell “dolphins, one o’clock, 50 meters!”. Joan and Joe, thank you so very much for creating such a wonderful experience. We hope that we can stay in touch and our paths will cross again.

Daniel & Alexandra (USA)

---

This has been an extremely privileged opportunity. To be so close to the dolphins, sea turtles and to understand the consequences of human activity in the resources that Mother Nature provides. Mostly I could only watch silently in awe or go “wow, look at those amazing creatures” instead of pointing out “dolphins sighted, 6 o’clock, 50 metres” which must have exasperated Joan countless times. The facts of the dwindling marine life are quite saddening to know, and this expedition serves as a reminder that we are all so small, and connected like parts of a chain of something larger. Be it cetaceans, land animals or other resources, we must all do our bit to love our environment a little more… so that we build a world based on love and respect for all that nature provides us with. Thank you for sharing so much knowledge Joan and Joe, it has been an experience which all of us will carry and cherish for a long time.

Min (Singapore)

---

I had a great time here in Vonitsa. I love this quaint, Mediterranean town and the valuable research that Tethys does. I chose this research expedition to explore a new country and to gain practical experience in marine biology – mission accomplished! I am also grateful for the “league of nations” environment that this project fosters. It was a pleasure to learn about Spanish, British, Japanese, and Singaporean culture. This will be the first of many Earthwatch research expeditions for me – perhaps I’ll even join “Dolphins of Greece” again! Best wishes in all your future endeavours.

Adria (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 22-29 August 2010

2010-08-29T13:15:00.006+03:00

Wake up, work, get home, dinner, gym, sleep.
Wake up, work, get home, dinner, gym, sleep.
Wake up, work, get home, dinner, can’t be bothered going to the gym, sleep.
Etc etc etc.

And so the days continue, bored and totally lost of focus, excitement, dedication and purpose. In a city like London, it is so easy to get lost in the crowd, be just a nameless face. Pessimism and negativity towards humanity and their effects on the planet had set in, however truthfully, I was not doing much to help either. What I take with me, apart from all the amazing experiences mentioned above through out the years, is a sense of purpose and hope. I have seen first hand that the world could just stand a chance, because there ARE people that care out there. I had forgotten to believe this. And to meet two of these people, Joan and Andjin makes it a real and inescapable fact. How inspiring! I sincerely thank you for this. Keep up the amazing work.

Wake up, teach my class and spread the word, get home, dinner, gym, sleep.
Wake up, continue to spread the word, get home, dinner, gym, sleep.
Wake up, watch the kids spread the word, get home, dinner, still can’t be bothered going to the gym, sleep.
Etc etc etc.

Alessia (UK/Australia)

---

As I sit here, Sunday morning, the morning of our departure, I try and write. I sit here drawing a blank; a quite literal lack of words. For everyone that knows me or has met me can appreciate that my silence is as rare and, more importantly, peaceful as a blue moon. The town, the people, the animals, the adventures, and the new family I have made over the past week have imprinted upon me something that I cannot express in the little time I allowed myself to process this most life changing of experiences. Hopefully, when I look back at my life in the coming few years, the gravity of my time here can be quantifiable. However, until then, my reticence will have to make due.

Cheers to the Dolphins of Greece and all of the people who live and work to preserve them. You passion is unrivalled.

Sam (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 13-20 August 2010

2010-08-22T08:30:00.003+03:00

The work you do is great. Thank you so much for teaching me more about dolphins than I could ever read about in a book. I going home and educating my family about how to ask questions at restaurants, and how to buy fish. I had a fantastic time, way to short though. Thank you for stopping and picking up the garbage in the cove. Every little bit helps, and just may be other people will get the message! Joan, I am going to miss your humour and your smile. Keep doing what you’re doing. People like you are what makes such a difference in the world. Keep smiling… I will be back some day, hopefully next year. I hope to see you again. Andjin, thank you for the Dutch humour and patience with all of us! Don’t ever give up. You can reach your dream!

Julia (USA)

---

What should I say… time with you and the beautiful dolphins was just too short! I learned, enjoyed and laughed a lot! Since I had absolutely no expectations and simply wanted to do something meaningful during my vacation, I was overwhelmed by everything that we experienced together. The field work was only part of this journey in the cetacean world. I am so grateful that you also introduced to us many issues of the global fishing industry and… made me think… made me reflect on my consumption behaviour… convinced me that I can also react to all the problems in the marine ecosystems worldwide. THANK YOU! I am so happy to have met you and been part of this project! Looking forward to future meetings and to working on all ideas we had during dinners and café time! Andjin, thanks for your jokes and your patience with all of us during the cropping time!

Mariya (Bulgary)

---

Thanks to you, I had a very good time in Vonitsa! Of course, it’s first time to see wild dolphins for me. So I was really excited about it. In addition, you introduced to me some issues on global fishing industry. I know we Japanese also have much to do with these problem. So when I go back to Japan, I must study and learn more about the cetacean ecosystem, the issue of fishing and, of course, the argument between Japanese government and IWC. I will be a doctor and as such my work will be saving people. But it’s the people that cause environmental problems. So I think it’s very important to have a passionate concern for both, people and environment. I want to be a doctor who can cure not only people but also the Earth! It was so great talking with you! I will miss you! Joan, when I meet you again, I will definitely be able to understand your jokes! (I must study English). I promise I will give you a ride on a yacht when you come to Japan! Please do not worry about our three kinds of Japanese alphabet. Andjin, thank you for taking care of me! I will check my quarters and remember to drink water regularly even when I go back to Japan. When you come to Japan in the future, please let me know! I will probably be around Tokyo, so I can show you around in gratitude!

Nobuyuki (Japan)

---

I cannot begin to thank you for enriching my life. I was so moved by the beauty of the sea, the charming villages and the magic of the dolphins. What a gift you gave me. Your patience, teaching skills and knowledge are impeccable. The daily lectures and casual conversations, at the dinner table, truly opened my eyes to how important preserving all life is. It is so easy to believe that we, as people, are not damaging the sea because we visually can not see what goes on underneath. Your teaching methods were kind and you showed much patience in helping me understand. I can’t even imagine the self sacrifice, which comes with your kind of work, you are admirable. My wish is that more people cared liked you do. Andjin, thank you so much for your kindness and patience in assuring a successful project. You took extract time to assure I understood the logistics, and many other aspects of the project.

Lisa (USA)

---

This has been perhaps one of the best animal experiences I have ever had in my life. I do not want it to be over! I have been very impressed with all you have done to organize and manage this project. Everything I have witnessed has been, in my opinion, very well documented and particularly unbiased in terms of how you gather data, the level of detail and care taken to ensure proper protocols, procedures, etc. In addition, you have both been excellent hosts and given us all good opportunities to enjoy ourselves and have some fun at your expense. The food has been delicious and healthy. I must also say that I was exceptionally impressed with how informative the information was prior to arriving in order to prepare us for a great project. Thanks for answering all my questions – there were many, no?. Finally, thanks for using your fantastic experience and talents to help our world and these wonderful creatures. This is very selfless of you both! That is a dedication that I can now appreciate much more thoughtfully and empathetically. I have great respect for both of you but particularly you, Joan, because I totally understand and appreciate your guidance to all of us. I think you might see me again! Ciao!

Lora (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 3-10 August 2010

2010-08-12T10:45:00.004+03:00

Thank you so much for introducing me to the wonders of the Seas. After many years absence from Earthwatch travel, I chose this project to acquaint myself with marine wildlife and the issues that surround them. Our seas and oceans are a part of our planet that until recently I have had little time to explore. Your project has not only educated me on the issues in this breathtaking region but also serious issues worldwide. I will always be grateful for this. Your enthusiastic teaching and seeing firsthand your true passion for your dolphin family has been truly inspiring. As a professional who has spent a career working in science and with animals I want to thank you for being so thorough and presenting such thought provoking material for the group to mull over. Your professional and caring approach for your dolphin charges and other gulf wildlife residents reminds me why this planet does stand a chance. Over and above this, seeing the dolphins in the beauty of their home and spending time in this quaint village has not only been an awesome experience but every moment with you has been great fun. You are the best. Thanks.

Vivian (Canada)

---

Thank you for all of the amazing experiences here. The way I imagined it would be was not even close to the magic of seeing dolphins up close. I will always remember their acrobatic grace, curiosity, and spectacular leaps out of the water. I was so moved by their interest in us—gliding up to the bow to bow ride, coming up to the boat and turning to look up at us, poking their rostrum and eyes out of the water to see us better. Making eye contact with one of the dolphins will be one of my best memories. After all that humans have done, it was incredible to see their openness to us.
Joan, thank you for explaining some of the science behind the beauty. I appreciate your comprehensive approach to battling the many stressors on the dolphins. The evidence of the common dolphins’ disappearance from Kalamos is indescribably sad. I am sorry that I can only imagine what it was like from your descriptions of when they were so plentifiul, rather than being able to see it with my own eyes. I admire the intense passion you feel for your work, and, after this experience, I can understand it. Thank you for taking the time to answer our questions, giving us background with presentations and documentaries, and, most of all, giving us the opportunity to experience dolphins (and the mobula ray!) up close.
Panni, thank you for your gentle understanding. Your kindness and patience made me much less nervous on the boat and... in the kitchen! ☺. Thank you also to Andjin for the help with cooking dinner and dessert. And Posi, sweet soul that you are.

Dawn (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 25 July - 1 August 2010

2010-08-04T21:26:00.004+03:00

As time moves on, the memories of great experiences do not fade, but grow significantly more important in my life. I will leave Vonitsa and Dolphins of Greece with every confidence in the future. I firmly know that the impact of this past week will remain with me. I will always talk about the town, Joan and Panni, and of course and so importantly, the dolphins and their water habitats both here in Greece and globally. The passion and dedication to his work coupled with his deep devotion to these amazing sea mammals makes Joan stand out as a very special scientist. I have great respect for people who live their lives with these qualities. Personally, I have never really been very close to sea life, yet dolphins have intrigued me greatly. This week has facilitated change in my connection to the underwater world! Thank you!

Robin (USA)

---

Thank you for an amazing week in Vonitsa. A few things I will never forget .... Riding out in the boat early in the morning with the mist still on the horizon and the sun pale and sparkling on the bay .... Watching the moon rise over the rocky hills to the east .... The diamond spray of dolphins jumping in the far distance ... The Dalmation pelican flying low, dragging its feet in the water .... The glossy arcs of the dolphins surfacing .... The sound of their breathing with the gulls crying ... slender terns flying over us ... Dolphins leaping, splashing, churning the water all around us .... I am sad to leave, but very grateful to Joan and Panni for all they’ve done. Joan ... I appreciate your dry sense of humor almost as much as your skill as a teacher. Your patience and clarity as well as your deep sense of commitment are inspiring. It was so enlightening to spend these days in your company and to learn a little bit about what it takes to do scientific research (not to mention how to make that great yogurt dish for the lamb kebabs.) Thank you for teaching me so much about this incredible place and the beautiful dolphins who live here. Panni .... thank you for sharing your warmth, enthusiasm, compassion and intelligence so generously. It’s been glorious.

June (USA)

---

This is our 5th visit to the Dolphins of Greece project and it was as amazing as ever. Watching dolphins calmly swimming, leaping out of the water, surface feeding, bow riding etc is so incredible even now – we doubt that we’d ever get tired of seeing it! Favourite moments include watching a group of dolphins close to the boat feeding gently, with dolphins all around us at various distances jumping and leaping excitedly; sitting with the boat engine turned off and listening to the dolphins blows, while swimming around us and feeding. Fortunately, we’re off to Ithaka for a couple of days and will be back for the next team to see lots more incredible behaviour. But the most amazing time has to be the time spent with the turtles! Thanks to Joan, Panni, Posi and the dolphins and turtles for such a great week – remember we would like some Common and Striped Dolphins in Kalamos next week!

Elaine and Richard (UK)

---

"Oh, I have had my moments, but if I had to do it over again I would have more of them—just moments, one after the other."
--Nadine Stair

I have tried to live my life by this quote, appreciating the moments, as well as the broader picture, as I travel through life. This was never more true than this week as I collected observations as a traveler, dolphin watcher, lay-researcher and human being. I had many questions about what I saw and learned a great deal from Joan and Panni, both fantastic educators. I gathered inspired ideas about what I will bring back to share with my students, colleagues, family and friends about this experience. I learned a lot about what it takes to be a successful researcher, as I helped to carefully observe and record vital data. I observed the way of life here in this corner of the world, one very different and yet beautifully similar to my own. However, most importantly, I have a string of memories- these moments- that will forever connect me to the dolphins and their habitat. From beauty we receive truth and clarity. The dolphins’ lives here are not unlike our own, forever linked to the world around us. Though I have to spin the globe to see Vonitsa from my home in New York City, the environmental impact IS in my backyard.
I leave here committed to spread the message about these beautiful creatures and the impact we have on them. My goal is that someday, the girls I teach will be able to come here to see a cleaner gulf, a thriving dolphin poulation, and a graphs with lines of disappearing creatures and clean waters heading in the right direction.
I have come to Greece to learn about dolphins and about our past connected to this historic land. I feel I will leave this country feeling a sense of ownership for the intertwined nature of our world- people, animals and ideas- in a way that I never would have imagined. With incredible gratitude,

Trude (USA)

Viewing dolphins as Taiji could show them

2010-08-03T05:21:00.000+03:00

A very nice article featuring work by Tethys in the Amvrakikos Gulf, Greece, as well as an upcoming paper on compassionate feelings towards the sperm whales stranded in Italy in 2009:

http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/fe20100711rh.html

The article, written by Rowan Hooper, appeared in the Japan Times.

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 16-23 July 2010

2010-07-25T16:32:00.004+03:00

My expectations for this project were high, but it has exceeded them by miles! While I thought we would be allowed to help with the research, I never believed I would be as involved as we have been in data collection. The absense of an assistant meant that we, the volunteers, were needed to perform the tasks normally done by them. This enabled me to feel that I was truly contributing to the research that will hopefully help to save these beautiful animals. The atmosphere was much more relaxed than I had expected. I felt that we (Team X) and Marina developed a great rhythm, both in data collection and everyday life. It made every moment fun! We were also so lucky to have six sightings of dolphins in six days. The first day in Kalamos (day 6) brought us face to face with a group of about 30 striped dolphins, a species which is not normally found there. They approached the boat, surfacing a foot from the side and swimming along under the front. I do not have the words to describe our encounter, but it was one of the best moments of my life. Now I understand more about the threats to the aquatic ecosystems I am more desparate than ever to do whatever I can to help. This project has shown me that a career in marine research is the only one for me! Thank you to Marina, Tatiana, Karen and Tim for making this so special. I do not believe it would have been the same without you and I will never forget this week.

Fran, U.K.

---

One day before leaving now, just this morning, one of my team mates asked me if this Earthwatch expedition to Vonitsa, Greece, had lived up to my expectations... Without any doubt I replied to him, that it had in fact far exceeded the expectations. The unique experiences that we lived during these seven days will remain forever in my mind. The sense of collaboration of this team, four strangers coming from different parts of the world and effective led by Marina Costa, our team leader, allowed us to effectively participate in the understanding of this research and the nature of the dolphins, the hands-on collection of data, and the excitement of being in contact with this beautiful environemnt. We were lucky enough as to be able to see dolphins all these six days. I am already thinking about the ways I will share my experience with my colleagues and students. I am looking forward to my next expedition. Thank you, Marina, Fran, Karen and Tim for your presence in this place here and now. It has been a pleasure meeting you all.

Rosa, Canada

---

First of all I have to say how privileged I was to be involved in this project. Even though we were only involved in the research process for six days, the lessons I have learned in Vonitsa will stay with me forever. I too enjoyed being fully immersed in the research during the time we were here. From the different species of dolphins we encountered to the different transits we traveled to try and find the dolphins. Every day was a new adventure. Thank you to Marina, our fearless leader, for providing just the right balance between work and play. You definitely provided us with opportunities to laugh as well as providing us with insight into your work with cetaceans all over the world. Thank you also to Tatiana, Fran and Tim for all the memories. We really made a great team. I consider this expedition to be the start of a lifelong process of continuing to learn and educate others about the beautiful animals that live in the ocean and the things that we can do to make sure that they are there for future generations to enjoy.

Karen, USA

Tethys research in the Amvrakikos Gulf featured in New Scientist

2010-07-16T14:26:00.007+03:00

A couple of weeks ago, the online news editor from the renowned New Scientist Magazine - Rowan Hooper - joined the 'Dolphins of Greece' Project in the Amvrakikos Gulf.

Hooper, thanks to an EarthWatch initiative, had the opportunity to spend nine days shoulder-to-shoulder with Tethys’ researchers Joan Gonzalvo and Iva Popovic.

After this experience, Hooper wrote an article about the dolphins situation in the Amvrakikos Gulf and in the waters surrounding the island of Kalamos, where Tethys is studying dolphins since 1991.

Read the article: Dolphins make their last stand in the Mediterranean.

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 9-16 June 2010

2010-06-17T10:55:00.005+03:00

All together, we learned an aweful lot, not only about dolphins, how to collect and process data, but also on the conservational aspects of this project, while having a good insight in major issues of todays marine ecosystems.

Harald, Lars (Denmark), Tommi (Finland) and André (Switzerland)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 30 May - 6 June 2010

2010-06-06T10:25:00.004+03:00

What an amazing experience. Every day was an adventure, whether going out into the Amvrakikos Gulf, out to Kalamos or just trying to cook dinner! On our first morning we set off in search of turtles by the mussel farm and after circling around for about 45 minutes and only seeing a couple of heads, I began to wonder how lucky we were going to be with the dolphins. Then, just a few minutes later we were surrounded by dolphins, pandemonium broke out on the boat with everyone shouting their sightings, the first volunteer got a taste of the dreaded netpad, and…….I was hooked! Seeing these beautiful creatures in their natural habitat was awesome, particularly the breaching, with every day better than the last. The afternoons spent cropping and matching photos of fins were far more fun than they should have been, thanks to my fellow volunteers (Jan, Melinda, Chris and Bob) and Iva`s enthusiasm and wicked giggles. The fun she and I had with “Banana Fin” will live long in the memory! Along with the fun, I also had my eyes opened to the problems of pollution, water diversion and over-fishing, not just for the dolphins but for the ocean at large. As well as the experience itself, it is these messages that I will take with me and try to disseminate back in the office and in my presentations to local school and business group back home.

Finally, I would like to say thank you to Joan and Iva for a fantastic week. Joan is so dedicated to his work and shows a real passion for the dolphins and a willingness to share this with us; never losing patience with the questions, nor the random direction and distances that were being yelled out so enthusiastically, but so often incorrectly! Then there was his wicked sense of humour, which so matched mine..……let`s never grow up Joan! Iva was such a fun girl too, always laughing (especially when I nearly fell out of the boat with the netpad in the storm at Kalamos!) and always making me smile, with her 3 fleeces and never a hair out of place! Thanks guys.

Paul (UK)

---

Yet again, another wonderful Earthwatch experience (my second, certainly not my last!). I learn so much on these trips. Things that I could never learn anywhere else and that are made even more compelling because of the PIs and assistants relating their own personal experiences and knowledge. Joan and Iva were no exception, sharing their passion and dedication to the sea and its inhabitants daily. The bunk beds and combined living quarters were of mild concern initially but it ended up feeling like a combination of camp and a slumber party. The cooking situation was of more dire concern for me (and would have been for others, believe me!) if we hadn’t convinced everyone to go out to eat on my night to cook! Otherwise, the meals were lovely and I am continually impressed by the skills of others to whip up great meals seemingly out of thin air. Even recording data in the netpad was mastered (well, it got BETTER if not mastered).

Throughout the week was lots of laughter, interesting conversations about all kinds of things, people from different places in the world sharing their stories and of course, the dolphins! Amazing to watch and wonder about these beautiful fi…… oh, mammals!! Every day but one we saw incredible feats of acrobatics and grace in the air and water (sometimes even some human acrobatics as we hung on for dear life with sudden boat acceleration! Or twisted around into unlikely positions as we tried to keep dolphins in sight.) The bow riding, breaching, surfing and simply seemingly playing of the dolphins was more than I could have asked for. Even the day we didn’t see any dolphins (our first day in Kalamos) was a stark reminder of what happens when an area is so overfished it can no longer sustain life – there were no birds beyond those just flying by, no signs of life at all in comparison to Amvrakikos – just people on sailboats on pretty, blue but empty water. It was truly a feeling of success when the second day in Kalamos (our last day of the trip) as we were heading in at the end of another no sighting day when we spotted 3 dolphins and kept them in sight despite rough water, thunder, lightning and spraying water. An exciting and dramatic way to end our trip. A great trip and another earthwatch experience that has left me inspired and exhilarated! Thank you Joan and Iva!

Janis (USA)

---

What a great experience. I was most impressed with our leaders, Joan and Iva, for their effort, dedication and generosity towards preserving the dolphins in a manner acceptable to the local community. This is a tremendous challenge, since the dolphin’s decline is tied closely to growth in the region and to fishing as an important income source. This trip gave me a good feel for the amount of effort involved and the level of need and urgency that society must understand and pay heed to, in order that we take the appropriate actions to save not only the dolphins, but other species also. I thank Joan and Iva for an outstanding effort to include us in their work and to educate us as to what mankind is doing to the seas and its creatures. I appreciate that the message is balanced – that there are alternative strategies that can meet the needs of the people, if not of corporations. They demonstrated that dedication is required and that broad support is essential to their mission.

There were two moments I will not forget. The first was a short period on our second day in which we were tracking a number of dolphins and they were appearing all around us, some at very short distance. There was a lot of shouting and excitment as Joan simultaneously maneuvered the boat, snapped photos, and gave instructions. Ten several dolphins jumped into the air directly in front of the boat. Wow. The second memorable event was a video conference Joan had with a class of students in the US who decided they wanted to do something to save the dolphins. Very impressive!

In summary, this was a great experience in the sense that it made me realize the urgency and magnitude of the challenges facing dedicated researchers such as Joan and Iva, along with their coworkers. And this is only one species from the sea that we need to take action on. The experience will allow me to build a much more effective class lesson for my students, as well as drive me to do much more to preserve what mankind is likely to lose if we don’t take preventive measures. I also enjoyed the other four volunteers on this project: Paul, Chris, Janis, and Melinda. I hope we’ll stay in touch.

Bob (USA)

---

Another amazing Earthwatch adventure! And another part of the world and earth that I need to worry about. ... I appreciate and so enjoy the perfect combination of education, contribution to serious fieldwork, a fabulous sense of humor, and the sense of comradary and teamwork that is built so quickly. Joan was always willing to share his knowledge and make sure we were getting the most from our experience. His concern and compassion for the dolphins is evident; he made sure we left the expedition with a broader understanding not only of the dolphins but of the fragility of the ecosystems of the oceans worldwide as well. His charm and sense of humor made it all fun! I especially apreciated him fixing and bringing me tea when I wasn’t feeling well...way above the call of duty. Iva’s enthusiasm for learning and her patience with all of us (including Joan) is comendable. Her guidance and smile were essential! It’s not always easy to work with volunteers, but Joan and Iva have mastered it! The experience couldn’t have been better.....a fabulous breaching dolphin and photos during “high seas”, thunder and lightening...who could ask for more?

Chris (USA)

---

“Enjoy the beauty of the dolphins,” Joan said as we raced back and forth across the water. Traveling unprepared in a world of ecological challenges can be quite a shock to one’s sense of self in the context of what I may leave for future generations. It can often be a confrontation with what I believe to be true about myself that rubs me raw. That is how I view my experience in Vonitsa with the dolphins in Amvarakikos Gulf and at Kalamos. Previous to this Earthwatch trip I had spent time reading about oceans, learning to dive, eating responsibly, and donating money to some organization whose literature stated they were saving the oceans. I was sure that if the oceans died humans were doomed. And, I was doing my part. As this Earthwatch experience comes to a close, I have come to recognize how truly uninformed I am about my relationship with our oceans. Joan’s intense commitment and passion for marine life, the oceans, and people makes the urgency of the conditions on this planet very personal. As the days passed, Joan’s demand for us to yell 9 o’clock, 60 meters, 3 dolphins became more important to the team. Of course, his requests were always followed by “please” and “thank you” or “hold on”. When I sorted out the difference between sea state four waves and the dorsal fins of the two departing dolphins at 6 o’clock, 200 meters, in the rain on the last day, I felt I was a part of something important. Locating the dolphins became a small piece of the larger puzzle. And at the end of the day the team knew it was important. Iva, our research assistant, was a blessing. Her intelligent patience with our clumsiness made this trip all the more enjoyable. She steered us in the right direction and made sure we were prepared to participate. Our lack of skill with the “netpad”, our hand-held computer, did not deter her. The “net pad”, an invention of torture, deliberately designed to sort out the higher order mammals among the team. Needless to say I have a limited future in “netpadding”. She was a perfect complement to our team.

For me personally, I cannot recall laughing more. Joan, Iva and my team brought their best game to each adventure. I counted on Bob for insight, on Paul for focus and purpose, on Chris for serious laughter, and on Jan for the very best questions. The company of good people with a purpose can hardly be matched by anything else one can do for a week, if not for a lifetime. As time passes it is the sound of Joan’s voice, filled with excitement at seeing each dolphin, and the generosity of Iva’s refreshing candor that I will miss most. Hopefully, I will carry the learning with me as I go. I cried when I watched °End of the Line.° I rarely cry. Maybe anarchy is not the answer, or maybe it is? How does one get the attention of those who are making decisions with our lives without going over the edge or reason? Something has to change the greed of my generation or my children and their children will have little left. I struggle with this and what I can do. I imagine the struggle is what I am taking away from this experience and the measure of me might well be determined by what comes of it. There is still time today.

Melinda (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 21-28 May 2010

2010-05-29T23:47:00.006+03:00

Ahhhhh, there were things that made me leery of this project… cooking… and bunkbeds among them. But hey, I didn’t cook, and the beds were just fine. But I knew when we arrived at the rendezvous and I sat watching the gulf that all would be more than fine (especially since the rain stopped about that time...not to be seen again while we’ve been here).

I have immensely enjoyed each of the Earthwatch projects I’ve been part of and Dolphins of Greece is no exception… might even now head the list as favourite. Have learned so much more than I expected thanks to our knowledgeable, amusing (and sometimes smart aleck?) PI, Joan (and trusty sidekick, Iva). I fear I will never feel the same about eating fish again, which is undoubtedly a good thing, and I suspect some friends at home may become a bit tired of my passing along what I’ve learned.

Best of all, of course, were the dolphins themselves, how kind of them to gather a large contingent to come greet us our first morning on the gulf—what a show! And then to provide another astonishing performance on our last day seemed a marvelous bonus. In between, they let us be with them, showed us something different each day and gave us practice in dealing with that lovely netpad (our hand-held computer), and remembering to be LOUD when hollering out that a dolphin was out at 4 o'clock and 30 meters, or was that 80 meters, maybe 150? How could anyone spend time with these lovely beings and not want to do whatever little bit she could to help research that might some day help them?

The company was excellent and the food was yummy. I, a confirmed cat person, even thought Posi was delightful. The only complaint I could think of about this entire experience is that IT’S TOO DARNED SHORT! I am a bit bereft realizing that there will be no wind-blown ride onto the gulf in the morning, but the memories (and about a bazillion photos—thanks for being patient with me and my camera) will last a very long time. And really, Joan, when I win the lottery, I’ll be back. Be prepared.

Marcia (USA)

---

What a great experience! I had never been in Greece before or on an Earthwatch expedition. Really would recommend it to anyone. I sure hope that the dolphins will be here in 10 years, and will do what I can to encourage marine conservation. I liked the small group we had of 3 volunteers and two research staff. I liked being involved in so many aspects of the research effort and the research staff really made me feel like I was contributing to the overall picture. I had trouble determining distance especially in meters, but it worked out. This experience with Earthwatch was excellent. Hope to do more expeditions in the future. Would love to take a niece or nephew on a trip. I encouraged some co-workers to try something like this so I hope that they will and that they will spread the word to conserve our wonderful marine environment.

Dolly (USA)

---

I think our team was most fortunate in having lovely May weather - cool in the mornings and evenings and warm at mid day. We did not have a single day without dolphins and saw almost every behaviour. It was not until our last day that I actually saw the white belly of a dolphin during surface feeding behaviour, which we were able to observe from just five meters. We spotted two Dalmatian pelicans during our runs and were able to observe one for quite a while, flying just above the surface of the water. The time with the dolphins was most precious but I really enjoyed learning to crop and match the photographs too. Joan was very generous with his time in making sure we understood all aspects of the research. He is not only a dedicated scientist and excellent teacher but a great cook! Iva was very instrumental in being sure we understood everything and were comfortable during our stay. I was especially pleased to learn that this Earthwatch project has an active outreach component, working with local people and especially school children. I look forward to sharing the materials developed for children with my Canadian grandchildren. I thought I was fairly knowledgeable about marine conservation but I really have a new fund of knowledge to share about what we as consumers and citizens need to do to save the seas and our wonderful aquatic friends. Marcia and I have survived 5 previous Earthwatch trips together but having Dolly as our coworker made this trip a delight. Thanks to all of you for a wonderful experience. Yes, even Posy was a good companion.

Nancy (USA)

Great start for Team 4

2010-05-21T22:50:00.006+03:00

Today we welcomed our fourth team of volunteers of the season. After a brief introductory session to our research protocols, methods and safety procedures, I left Mary, Marcia, Nancy and Iva (our research-assistant) in the volunteer’s loft, getting familiar with the hand-held computer we use onboard to collect data on dolphin behaviour. I went out to the balcony to check on Poseidon (our dog) and think about the different ways of improving my P.I. skills - i.e. I was actually having a cigarette ;-), when a large flock of seagulls called my attention. After a few seconds of observation I spotted a group of 3-4 dolphins surface-feeding right below the frenzy of seabirds, half a mile away from Vonitsa’s seafront. I rung the alarm and we all flew off to the small pier right in front of our field base to observe our first sighting together. We stayed there until they stopped feeding, progressively moving out from sight. We could not ask for a better start or for a better welcome for our new group of Earthwatchers!

joAn

A great experience

2010-05-13T09:17:00.000+03:00

I have loved dolphins since I was ten. To participate in the Dolphins of Greece expedition as a research assistant is a dream come true for me. When I arrived to Vonitsa a month ago I was anxious to face the challenge. During my first sighting I was so nervous! A couple of days later I was the first to spot the dolphins and progressively, I started to feel more comfortable with the data collection and with the application of the different research protocols. I suddenly felt that I was enjoying it very much. I will always remember that moment when I felt that ‘yes, this is what I really want to do’. Since then, I have spent many amazing moments with the dolphins of the Amvrakikos Gulf.

I have also enjoyed sharing this experience with our volunteers. I met many interesting people who, as I do, believe in the principle that as individuals we can do a lot for the environment and for the conservation of nature. I am eager to get back home and share my experiences with family and friends.

I am full of enthusiasm and I am looking forwards to come back in June and do my best to help with the work carried out by Tethys. Joan has taught me a lot. However, there are so many things still to be learnt!

Anikó Szegedi (Panni)
Research assistant from Hungary

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 5-12 May 2010

2010-05-12T00:25:00.006+03:00

This week leaves me feeling privileged, humbled and challenged.

I consider myself privileged to have been introduced to the Amvrakikos Gulf and to the dolphins by somebody who knows them so well and who is dedicating his life and energy to monitoring them and working for the preservation and restoration of their environment. Thank you, Joan. I also feel extremely privileged to have been able to participate in meaningful and rigorous research and to have been able to contribute, albeit on the most simple of tasks, with Joan and Panni as they start another season of intense work.

Much of the time when we saw dolphins, I could not speak – I was completely overcome by these beautiful, healthy, magnificent animals. My feelings were a mixture of overwhelming awe, respect, marvel and total calmness, which was not what I expected. Watching the dolphins in their environment without our presence affecting them - to observe them feeding, socialising {sometimes intimately!}, travelling, communicating – was incredible – one runs out of superlatives, but I felt totally humbled and totally blessed. I love all aspects of this place, the sky, how the mountains change from hour to hour and day to day, the islands, the water, the dolphins, the flocks of solitary {!!} pelicans, the bats flitting around at dusk – just the peace, and the knowledge that the dolphins are still out there and, hopefully, with the work of Tethys and dedicated men and women, like Joan and Panni, will thrive here for many decades.

We have seen dolphins every day and, even just sighting them was perfect for me. But, as the week has progressed, we have witnessed more and more incredible examples of how wild dolphins behave. Over the last three days I feel Amvrakikos has yielded more of itself to us – the unconventionally beautiful pelicans, the beautiful, sleek grey forms of the dolphins out on the horizon and so close to the boat. Seeing them socialising, mating, moving out of the water to look at us, leaping and, today, feeding and then relaxing has been a very precious gift to me.

I also feel challenged by knowing that the balance here is so fragile, that this place is so unique and that the simplest of my choices - ‘what shall we have for tea tonight’ - may have a direct impact on what happens here and elsewhere in the world. Joan said we cannot take on the whole world and you have to decide what you really believe in and follow it through – to ‘focus’. This week I realise, with a degree of shame, that I may ‘talk the talk’, but could certainly ‘walk the walk’ with more conviction and dedication than I have done. Joan’s focus and dedication is an inspiration and so, as well as being completely overwhelmed by the dolphins themselves, to spend time alongside somebody with such deep commitment and personal passion, has been a very humbling experience. Thank you, Joan.

In more practical terms, I can fault nothing. For me the balance between work and relaxation time is good and it was good to feel that the exercises we were doing in the afternoon were ‘real’ and not just ‘dummies’ for ‘the volunteers’ to play with. I am sorry I was so inept with the palmtop on the first day – I shall bring my monocle next time!! The lectures, talks and videos are very informative, very comprehensive and I thought provided a perfect platform for further reading, discussions, questions etc. The field station is very comfortable – much more so than I expected - and beautifully arranged – thank you Joan for all those trips to Ikea and for letting us into your beautiful home. Sharing the cooking is a brilliant idea and we have eaten so well this week – once again, far beyond what I expected. Panni is an absolute poppet and her gentle touches on my shoulder and guidance with the palmtop, on which groups of dolphins to concentrate on and sweetness around the house have really helped dispel my nervousness (I really didn’t want to be ‘the Weakest Link’. Joan, I thank you for all you have taught me this week and for explaining everything so thoroughly and willingly. Yes, you are exacting, but extremely professional and your professionalism and demand for accuracy and high quality gives weight and absolute credence to your work, which is such an excellent example to us volunteers

Thank you Joan and Panni for sharing your space for the week, and of course, thank you to Posi for providing some canine company, evening acoustics and much amusement!! Joan, Panni and my dear co-volunteer, Nina, are very special people and this has been a very happy week – for the things I have seen and been part of, the company and friendships formed and being part of something bigger, and hopefully longer-lasting than myself. I’m really happy that Nina and I are continuing our Grecian ‘odissey’, which means we can continue to talk about this amazing week and I think both of us will leave a bit of ourselves here anyway…

Karen Musk (UK)

---

“Splashes on the horizon,

Tails in the air.

Peace, with dolphins breathing.”

This has been my first volunteering experience in conservation, and it has been so much more than I ever expected it to be. This is something I have wanted to do for years and in finally plucking up the courage to go for it, I leave with far more than some pretty photos, a sun tan and a tick in a box! I leave with an appreciation of the delicate interplay between individuals within a highly social community, between a species and their environment, and between mankind’s economic agendas and the impact of these on fragile ecosystems. I also take with me new friendships: Karen, Joan and Panni, this team has felt more like a funny little family than anything else! I very much look forward to these friendships developing.

Life at the Vonitsa research station on this expedition has struck the perfect balance between practical fieldwork and project support, educational and relevant discussions, free time, delicious meals and warm conversation around the dinner table (with just the right amount of micky-taking)! Joan, you have created a lovely home for us here – thank you for sharing this space and your time with us so openly. Bear-like in the mornings (heehee), you foster a warm and positive atmosphere within the team by simply being yourself: we have laughed so much (about things that I dare not elaborate on here..!) and talked about so many things. Your enthusiasm, commitment and knowledge of this field is as broad as it is infectious – I defy anyone to not take away a more responsible attitude to the treatment of marine life, nor a deep interest in the life of cetaceans (or a taste for the capuccino freddo!!)! Panni, you are such a warm, open and caring girl – thank you for setting the scene for the lovely atmosphere that has developed over the week. You have been so good in training us with the palmtop and with processing the photos to be able to identify individuals – it seems you’ve been doing this for years, you are a very good and patient teacher. Your enthusiasm for learning new things and taking this forward into your career is commendable and I wish you all the best for your future endeavours (and I mean it about getting in touch if you need help with applications etc!). Posi – thank you for your unswerving enthusiasm (for food and walks) and for providing such material for laughter..! (although I don’t thank you Joan for using this material just when I’d always taken a mouthful of food! Cheeky!)

Our days on board ‘The Baby’ have been exquisite: we have been so lucky with our sightings, seeing such a range of behaviours demonstrated and by so many individuals. The allocation and organisation of training, responsibilities and activities within the team out on the boat have been impecable: proof of the long term experience the project managers have. All procedures are well practiced and organised in a safe, inclusive (and fun!) manner. I feel like I have significantly broadened my knowledge of research techniques for this type of work, and I plan to take these forward in my own career now. And Joan, I am sorry about getting so excited about the sightings that I end up all over the boat, especially with my head in the frame... oops!!

The last two sightings have been, well, too rich for these few words to fully illustrate. Being in the middle of the beautifully smooth Amvrakikos Gulf waters, surrounded by dolphins: we have witnessed intimate social behaviour, the affection between familiar individuals; we have watched dolphins use their bodies to corral fish to the surface to feed, seen mothers with their young so close by; we have seen playful breaching in breath-taking displays. We have come to recognise individuals, and have seen how these are like old friends to our captain! And all the while it has felt a privilege to be there, to be accepted by these facinating creatures – and especially at times to be the subject of playful curiosity!

Today, when Joan switched the boat engine off and we were alone with the sounds of the Gulf, we had a time that I will never forget. Hearing nothing but the breath of our group of resting dolphins, the ripple of the water as they surfaced and the gentle lap of the waters against the hull of the boat, I realised that I was in their world, and that I was there only because they allowed it. It was an honour.

Nina (UK)

Unforgettable "Dalmatian" experience

2010-05-09T20:38:00.001+03:00

This morning, after following a group of bottlenose dolphins for about an hour and a half we encountered a large group of Dalmatian pelicans Pelecanus crispus. In total, we estimated 24 individuals. Slowly approaching them with our research boat they allowed us to observe them from just a few meters away.

Dalmatian pelicans are large and elegant waterbirds which wingspan can easily reach about 3 m. In the past they were widely distributed throughout Europe and Asia. During the last century, however, their population dropped drastically and occurrence in Europe is now limited. The species is classified as Vulnerable in the IUCN Red List.

The islets in the lagoons Tsoukalio and Logarou in the northern Amvrakikos Gulf is one of the few European sites where they are regularly nesting.

Today we enjoyed the largest congregation of these magnificent animals registered since we started working in the Gulf, i.e. since 2001. Watching their majestic wings spreading right in front of us for takeoff left us all wide-eyed and speechless. Unforgettable!

joAn

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 26 April - 3 May 2010

2010-05-02T18:44:00.004+03:00

In these eight days you have given me so much to thank you for. Thank you for the eagerness with which you shared information about not only dolphins, but the state of the oceans as a whole. Thank you for your openness and clear interest in the questions and views of others and of course thank you for the chance to come so close to dolphins in the wild, this meant more to me then I can express with words. But most of all thank you for not pushing me off the boat for insubordination!

Genevieve (USA)

---

This experience was so educational and informative! What a wonderful opportunity to visit a veritable paradise, meet interestig people, learn, and do good work. I kept voluminous notes on all the documentaries and presentations Joan shared with us. I am not sure how I will use them to help spread the word about how we must all work to save our precious animals and environment, but with his approval I will find a way. A vegetarian and animal rights defender for decades, this experience not only deepened my resolve to continue to influence others whenever possible and appropriate, but it also heightened my sense of urgency about informing and educating the public and our policy makers. Returning to an intense learning environment for eight days after many years of a mentally unchallenging lifestyle was just the right jolt I needed to begin exercising my brain cells more often. Even the library of paperbacks and hardcover books here offered both leisure time pleasure and more learning opportunities. An overall good experience!

Joan and Ely (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 17-24 April 2010

2010-04-28T14:38:00.002+03:00

As Joan said very rightly: after this experience you will never look at a dolphin fin the same way. Who would have imagined fins can look so different! But of course the most marvellous experience was the time we spent on the boat, with the dolphins! It was really great to see the differences in their behaviour, to hear them breathing so close by and see their friendly faces. It completely made us forget the chilly wind – imagine that in a few weeks teams will be heat-battered in that same boat.

What made the expedition really enjoyable was the team spirit: it must be because we were such an international (5 nationalities) team that we were able to cooperate so smoothly. We were fortunate to have a team with great sense of humour: if jokes sometimes got a little out of hand, we can only blame that on “ouzo” and “krassi”. We learnt that Germans can be ferocious drivers, that being negative on command is not an easy thing to do and that Joan “no habla ingles” when the discussion gets tricky. Meanwhile our live-from-the-field teacher kept several classes of American kids up-to-date with our expedition findings and did a good deal to help them realise how they can help to save endangered marine species from extinction. We hope you will see some of them on an Earthwatch expedition in the future!

Stephan (Germany), Marie-Claire and Cas (Holland)

---

This experience has been truly amazing for me. I left America with a very different attitude than I will be returning with. Joan’s passion for his work was contagious. He was a very good teacher when it came time to explain the big picture and how our choices are affecting the environment in such negative ways. I had no idea that overfishing was as bad as it is. The documentaries really showed how depressing is the situation and how we, as consumers, have the power to change what is happening. The message I want to take back to my classroom is that every one of us plays a part and that asking the right questions and becoming more educated about what we buy is the way to get things moving in the right direction. I have to say I am a changed woman and I will be approaching some aspects of my life very differently as a result of this trip.

I want to thank Joan and Panni for their hospitality. It cannot be easy welcoming four very different individuals into your home and successfully making them all feel comfortable. The balance between work and play was very nice. I got to see a lot more than the dolphins, which would have been enough. I will never forget the faces of those dolphins and how it felt when they looked at you. If only they would stay above the water just a little longer so I could get a decent picture of them. The time on the boat was amazing and intense! I am sorry that it has to end, but I leave here knowing that my students will benefit greatly from the information I have gathered. As a result, I believe our environment will benefit greatly too, even if it is just a little.

Apart from learning a lot about dolphins through presentations as well as constantly asking questions to our patient expedition leader, we received a thorough insight into the state of commercial fishing, the already depleted resources of the oceans and possible solutions to those problems.

Nicole (USA)

Back on track

2010-04-27T01:02:00.007+03:00

On Saturday our first team of Earthwatch volunteers for the 2010 research season left our field base in Vonitsa, after a week spent working with us on dolphins in the Amvrakikos Gulf.

It could not be a better team to get things started. Stephan, Marie-Claire, Cas and Nicole were hard-working and good fun.

It was also a challenging week for Annikó (Panni), our new Hungarian research assistant, who is learning fast and who will be soon posting some comments in this blog.

Our volunteer Nicole teaches third grade for boys in New York City and she joined our project as a Life From the Field Fellow. During her stay she communicated with her students via skype and her blog. We held several video conferences with hundreds of students, who had the opportunity of hearing about the experiences of their teacher and ask questions to the Tethys staff.

joAn

Ionian Dolphin Project: updated report 1991-2009

2009-10-23T07:48:00.001+03:00

The Ionian Dolphin Project, a long-term research and conservation programme conducted by Tethys in the eastern Ionian Sea, has recently completed a report of the activities done in the context of its three study areas in Greece: Gulf of Amvrakikos, Gulf of Corinth and Inner Ionian Sea Archipelago.

The online version of the report can be viewed at the link below:

http://www.tethys.org/projects/IDP/

(also see pages of the Menu)

Enjoy!

Dolphins of Greece volunteers 1-9 October 2009

2009-10-09T11:04:00.003+03:00

I loved this experience! Joan and Zsuzsanna were awesome. They were patient and increased my understanding of dolphins and the impact of overfishing. At the end of the project I had a much better understanding of how field research in marine biology is done. I now feel I can make better consumer choices on which fish to buy that are not a burden on the environment. I can also educate my friends and family on what I learned at the Dolphins of Greece expedition about overfishing, so they too can make wiser consumer choices. Overall this trip was very informative but most of all a lot of fun. I had a great time with the other volunteers on the boat, cooking, cropping and matching dolphin photos. I leave with great memories!

Maribeth, USA

---

Images of Vonitsa

Bright sun,
calm, glassy seas,
a juvenile leaps!
Then, rides the bow... Wow!

Learn to shout out
“dolphin out at 2 o’clock at 50 meters”
when all you can blurt,
“my god, that’s a dolphin...right there”

The castle lit at night,
laughter at the table,
constant teasing,
a lucky dog named Poseidon.

Mary Beth, my friend,
Irina, a new friend.
Susanna, so pretty,
so sweet, but, what a taskmaster!
Joan, a flirt with his wink,
passionate, stern and authoritative (well, he tries).

Suzanne, USA

---

This is my third attempt to write in this diary... now I know why I never owned one! A Greek saying comes to mind “Ta polla logia ine ftohia...” meaning that saying to much defeats the purpose... or something like that! So... from the bottom of my heart I want to thank all of you, Joan, Susie, Suzanne, Maribeth and of course Posi and the dolphins for making this week one that i will cherish for the rest of my life! Learned a lot, laughed a lot, looked a lot, bounced a lot, guessed a lot (+/-100 meters!) and of course ate A LOT! Loved it all! Thank you guys.

Irina, Greece

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 21-29 September 2009

2009-09-29T12:30:00.004+03:00

This morning we woke up ready to make the most of our last day at sea, and after poor weather kept us moored in the house for two days prior, we were ready for it. I hummed the song Something Only We Know to myself, the song from Keane’s album The Iron Sea, which was popularized in the movie He’s Just Not That Into You. As the boat shuttled out past the marina this morning, we headed toward the open gulf in search of dolphins, one last sighting, one last day to help with the conservation efforts of Tethys Institute and our research leader, Joan Gonzalvo. I looked down at the water beside me, to the left side of the rubber inflated boat. The clarity of the water became more opaque as we headed further out, but was still translucent enough to allow sightings of dolphins bowriding, a ‘blink and you’ll miss it’ scenario that I was lucky enough to witness on our most recent sighting. It wouldn’t occur today, but I kept my eyes peeled, in case. I also kept an eye further out, where the sea appeared as a dark teal that deepened in color as the depth of the water increased. Ahead of the bow, the dark water wrinkled just enough for small waves to sift up and back into the water again, hosting small spots of sunlight that sparkled like diamonds laid upon a velvet cloth. The sun beckoned freckles forth from the pale skin of my nose and I basked in the warmth, as I kept my eyes trained on the water. ‘Just one’, I thought, ‘we just need one sighting and the rest will follow’. Finally, Joan shouted out, ‘One o’clock! Far out!’ And the boat throttled faster toward the direction of his outstrectched hand. We continually thereafter spotted a small group, maybe between four and six dolphins. By now, we had been through the routine of spotting and counting these animals, but the sightings were just as awe-inspiring, watching sleek slate grey beasts rise and fall soundlessly out of the iron sea.

Toward the end of the day, I glanced over my shoulder at our boat’s stern – the water beyond us had taken on an icy blue appearance that seemed as flat as glass below the mountains of the region, giant monoliths that faded into the mist like shadows. I shook myself from the mesmerizing sight. Someone had spotted our guy, one single solitary dolphin traveling alone, with no telltale marks yet, but the ability to capture our hearts. I snapped several photos with my personal camera, unable to tell from the glare whether it was a good shot or not. Luckily I did end up with one good shot of the cetacean emerging from the sea – one single solitary shot - but a million memories will linger in my mind. From trying out my greetings in Greek with the locals to snapping photos of the grapes hanging off their trellises; avoiding jelly fish at the beach with purple centers that remind me of brains; traveling to Lefkada and Poros for day trips; cooking together and sharing meals; this has been a well thought out and wonderful trip. On this eighth day, I didn’t spot any sea turtles, but rumor has it, they’re around. When end of the work day was near, we witnessed a pelican to the far right by a small rust colored island covered with a dusting of nubby logan green bushes. This was a nice bonus. Finally we turned the boat south and headed back to Vonitsa, tired and mentally fatigued, but content. By now, we’d witnessed mothers and their calves, groups of dolphins feeding and leaping, often swimming so close together in small groups of two or three that from a distance they almost appeared to be the same animal. From time to time members of our team glanced at each other, exchanging smiles, watching the dolphins living peacefully and seemingly unperturbed, with no need to put on a show for us - this was the real thing. It was something only we knew.

I’ll never forget this experience, these people and the wonderful Greek people of Vonitsa. Joan, you were right – and every mishap that happened to me along the way was worth it. I’ll second the opinion of past volunteers- the videos impacted me tremendously and I’ve already begun to share the Whaletrackers links with friends and family. To Earthwatch, Tethys, and my teammates: Thanks for everything. One of my favorite responsibilities was jumping from the boat to shore with the ropes. Thanks for letting me. PS –I had the best seat in the house at the bow of the boat!

Ashley (USA)

---

This was truly the experience of a lifetime. I was the lucky winner of a drawing at my company, Petro-Diamond, for an Earthwatch expedition. I chose “The Dolphins of Greece” for a few reasons, the first was... I wanted to see Greece. I did not see myself coming to Greece on a vacation, so I wanted to take the opportunity to visit this beautiful land. The second reason was because I have always found dolphins to be interesting, more interesting than the other creatures of the sea, almost like they have a kinship with humans somehow. I have been forever changed in my appreciation for these beautiful animals. Joan and Aina were so patient with the team the first day at sea out of Vonitsa, we were a bit overwhelmed with the number of dolphins all around us. It was such a wonderful sight!! Dolphins everywhere... literally everywhere that you looked. It was difficult to stay focused on the project at hand and not be in awe of what was in front of you. Once we were back at the house, we began the cropping, grouping and matching... so many differences in a dorsal fin, who knew? Well, I know now.

I will forever view the sea differently and have a deep appreciation for sealife and especially the beautiful dolphins. The meals together were a highlight, planning and prepareing and cleaning up after them, all of it was a delight. I would like to thank Joan and Aina for the hospitality that they showed us during our stay (Posi was a great addition to the group considering I miss my dogs that are at home in Cali). Joan was truly entertaining (funny and straight-up... love that) and a good sport to host us for most of our expedition without an assistant. Also, thank you to Earthwatch for giving me the opportunity to have this experience. Lastly, thank you to my team... I truly felt that we worked well as a group in the boat and back at the house! Thank goodness that we had playing cards, and David to teach us every game known to man!!

Stephanie (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers 11-19 September 2009

2009-09-19T16:51:00.001+03:00

As the last day of the expedition comes to an end, I am able to reflect on all the information I have learned and gathered from watching the documentaries, presentations, and dolphin sightings this past week. Although I have some previous knowledge about overfishing and dolphins, coming on the project has reminded me how naive the rest of the world actually is and the need to spread more conservation awareness. Perhaps people just need more hands on experience to realize the danger humans pose to wildlife and the need to help them. Thanks to Joan and Aina for being patient with us and for helping us learn more about dolphins while having fun with us. Maybe, one day, we will randomly meet again somewhere, whether it is the water or in another country! Organizations like Earthwatch give us a wonderful eye-opening experience and hopefully, more people will be able to join projects like this one. Thanks!

Ashley (USA)

---

The last day has arrived and we are getting ready to depart. The Dolphins of Greece Expedition has met all my expectations and more! The sightings of the dolphins were spectacular and Joan and Aina were great teachers. Their strongest aspect was showing their enthusiasm and dedication to the research and imparting their knowledge on us. What I will take out of this experience is the education. The videos had such an impact; they bring the criticality of the environmental aspects and the impact of the choices we make. Understanding the critical linkages to the environment and the future of all marine mammals and fish were eye opening. I know that my personal choices will be reinforced. I will also search out for opportunities to help others bridge that knowledge to bring about change, which will be my ultimate challenge. Thank you again for the great experience. The only thing I would change is altering my approach to my turn at cooking. Fine restaurants or doing all the dishes for the week would be great incentives and a lot more pleasurable for everyone. Thanks!

Marge (USA)

---

This having been my first environmental expedition and first time to Greece, there was a lot to take in and experience. Outside of the opportunity this provided to observe the unique characteristics of Greek and Spanish...sorry, “Catalan” cultures, I came away with a deeper insight and greater appreciation for the men and women that dedicate their lives to bring about environmental awareness and global change. Not to mention further fuelling my desire to remain involved in conservation endeavors, while exploring the rest of the globe.

Mike (USA)

Old friends sighted around Kalamos

2009-09-10T18:02:00.001+03:00

A few days ago, two V.I.D. (Very Important Dolphins) were encountered around the island Kalamos: Pira and Spiti, both bottlenose dolphins, seen together in a group of 11 individuals.

In 2006 Pira, a male, had a piece of yellow fishing net stuck in his blowhole, but by July 2009 he had managed to extrude the net from the blowhole. During the September sighting, Pira went to bowride in front of our research boat and Joan Gonzalvo took some nice photos of the blowhole, confirming that the net went away without causing any visible problem.

Spiti is the most popular dolphin among volunteers who had a chance to see this dolphins around Kalamos, thanks to his distinctive non-fin. Spiti's dorsal fin has been cut-off (possibly by a longline or a boat propeller) in 2003. Despite the dramatic amputation, Spiti recovered well and pigmentation went back to the original dark grey color.

Silvia Bonizzoni

---
Top photo: Pira bowriding our research boat
Bottom photo: Spiti with his missing dorsal fin

Dolphins of Greece volunteers 1-9 September 2009

2009-09-09T13:55:00.002+03:00

Everyone comes here for different reasons and with different expectations. I came on short notice, with little fanfare or personal preparation, but with the expectation that I have been given a rare opportunity to contribute to something greater than myself, and I leave hoping that I have not let anyone down. Seeing dolphins in their natural habitat, assisting with the research, learning and understanding more the impact of our seafood consumption and consumerism globally can be very eye opening, and challenging. This is the type of experience that has the potential to change your life, in little and in big ways. We were a small team, two volunteers and two researchers, I want to say that Joan and Aina were very patient with us, and worked very hard to ensure that the two of us had a memorable experience from start to finish. They both took good nature jokes made by me and my volunteer partner and laughed through many meals while maintaining the position of leader/teacher and kept us focused and on track to make our contribution to this fabulous research project.

Marsha, USA

---
Learning about the environmental challenges of the Amvrakikos Gulf has been an educational experience. Learning about dolphins has been not just educational, but exciting! While I am not a scientist and have limited skills, it is a good feeling to be able to contribute to scientific research in some small way and to help prepare a conservation management plan for these precious resources. Joan and Aina are very dedicated, knowledgeable, patient and kind. They made my time here a rewarding experience and had endless patience with my fumbling ways and many questions. They are both good instructors and committed biologists and understand how to motivate volunteers. Their good nature and sense of humour led to many good times together. They also enhanced our exploration of the areas tourists by giving us good suggestions of food, tavernas and local places to visit. The dolphin project can open one’s eyes in many ways and I hope many others have an experience as fulfilling as mine. Thank you Joan, Aina, Earthwatch and partner Marsha for a terrific experience.

Glenda, USA

Oh Tursiops truncatus so dear

2009-09-09T13:43:00.008+03:00

A small poem written by Earthwatch volunteer Glenda Booth after her dolphin experience in Vonitsa, Greece (September 8th, 2009).

There once was a man named Joan,
Who rose when still the dew on,
‘Cause dolphins he chased,
Round the sea in a race,
As intently his gum he chewed on.

There once was a girl named Aina,
As pretty as Princess Diana,
She worked like a slave,
Till she fell in her grave,
‘Cause dolphins to her were not minor.

The team sails out at sunrise,
Half awake and with so blurry eyes,
On a search far and near,
For sea creatures so dear,
And with nary a hope for a prize.

The sun it beats down very hot,
The boat heaves and flops quite a lot,
We can hardly hold on,
We cringe and we moan,
But they push us until we drop.

Our captain he yells and he screams,
As we think of wine and ice cream,
“Look one to three,
And not at your knee,
You’ve missed 20 dolphins I’ve seen!”

“Sit down, stand up”, he commands,
“look here, look there, all around.
Don’t pull any stunts,
Do it all, all at once,
And don’t behave like a clown”.

Six dolphins, they jump at seven,
And six more, they dive at eleven,
Their fins have some nicks,
As if beaten by sticks,
I know we will see them in heaven.

They demand reliable data,
Like how and when did he mate her?
How long was the dive?
Their calves, four or five?
Is his fin like a flattened potato?

Our lovely assistant is cool,
She knows and obeys every rule.
She ties all the ropes
And tugs all the floats, A
nd ensures that we are not fools.

We drag our butts home all hot,
We yearn to escape the despot,
“Oh no, onward team!
There’s more in our scheme,
For now we must dot and crop!”

Oh Tursiops truncatus so dear,
For you we will give many years,
And sacrifice all,
To answer the call
When Joan and Aina want us near.

Glenda Booth

Ionian Dolphin Project web update

2009-09-02T07:14:00.002+03:00

The web site section of the Ionian Dolphin Project has been updated to include work conducted until July 2009.

Check it out!

http://www.tethys.org/projects/IDP/

---

The Ionian Dolphin Project is a long-term research and conservation programme conducted by the Tethys Research Institute in the Ionian Sea.

In 1991 the Tethys Research Institute started a study around the island of Kalamos, in the Inner Ionian Sea Archipelago (a Natura 2000 area). Initially meant to be a long-term investigation on the ecology and behaviour of common dolphins in a central Mediterranean hotspot, the study documented their sharp decline. Common dolphins declined dramatically from about 150 to 15 animals between 1995 and 2007. Actions by Tethys aim to facilitate their recovery. Bottlenose dolphins are found in the same area in relatively small numbers, but have stable trends and were studied intensively over the past decade. Ongoing monitoring allows to detect changes in population status and propose timely management measures.

In 2001 Tethys started a study in the Amvrakikos Gulf, where bottlenose dolphins are the only cetacean species encountered. This study showed that about 150 dolphins live in the Gulf. These dolphins are members of a resident community showing unique behaviour and ecology. The Gulf - which is part of a larger National Park - is also inhabited by loggerhead sea turtles Caretta caretta and has a rich bird fauna including rare species. Research carried out by Tethys is documenting how the local dolphin community interacts with its environment and how human activities - particularly fishing and pollution - may influence its conservation status.

In 2009 Tethys started a new study in the Gulf of Corinth to investigate the ecology and status of three cetacean species: bottlenose dolphins, striped dolphins and short-beaked common dolphins. Although the number of striped dolphins living in the Gulf is still unknown, concerns over their status are raised by their likely small population size, high degree of geographic isolation, reproductive closeness and limited extent of occurrence. Striped dolphins in the Gulf are often associated with a few common dolphins and inbreeding between the two species may occur. Bottlenose dolphins also live in the Gulf at low densities.

Research by Tethys is providing support to management efforts in the eastern Ionian Sea, through actions including:

- continued monitoring of dolphin groups through field research methods including boat surveys and individual photo-identification, to detect population trends, identify critical habitat, and gain further insight into ways of mitigating the present threats;

- research on factors threatening the local ecosystem, particularly with regard to the impact of fishing;

- public awareness initiatives (e.g. involvement of a large number of volunteers, “Dolphin Days” and other events organized locally, public presentations, lectures at local schools, video productions);

- contacts and meetings with the local Authorities and fishermen organisations, aimed to a) raise awareness on the need to establish measures to protect dolphins and implement the existing regulations (e.g. with regard to illegal fishing activities); and b) identify ways to compensate any losses for fishermen or promote a progressive re-conversion of their activities;

- dissemination of information in the scientific literature and provision of sound data and management proposals to international agreements and bodies concerned with the protection of marine biodiversity.

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 21-29 August 2009

2009-08-30T19:18:00.003+03:00

As I sit and think of how to share my experiences of the past week, I find myself a little speechless. Then reading the other entries from days and years past – I find that I am in good company feeling as if their time with the dolphins has been unforgettable! I was worried when I booked the trip ... I am not a scientist, what if I screw up their research (I think I broke that pesky handheld computer)? who knew that my biggest problem would be trying to type an English entry from an Italian keyboard!

This past week has been a marvelous experience and I believe all of the thanks belong to three people – Marina, the crazy Italian who has an unhealthy fascination about jellyfish and wanting to live under the sea (I will return to work singing that song), Susie, a wonderful research assistant who cannot sit still if you paid her and Marcello, an Italian with a Scottish brough (who knew that could happen). Not to mentiont a few cetaceans (look I learned a new word) that were simply amazing! And when I mean just a few, I mean a “focal group size” between 8 and 20 with adults, calves and a few newborns. I am going to go home wondering and dreaming – which is smarter, bottlenose or common, are we positive or negative – when can I stop looking at my feet now? which is cooler, boat riding or jumping (sorry – aerial behavior) dolphins? I have my answers and I hope the volunteers after me have all the opportunities I had to come to their own conclusions. I may just be back next year to confirm my answers. Thank You!

Monika (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 11-19 August 2009

2009-08-21T14:19:00.004+03:00

Dolphins of Greece, an evocative term for a fantastic expedition. Patient, friendly, good humoured, and infectiously enthusiastic about their work Marina and Zsuzsanna are great people and great teachers. Possi was great as well, although now he’s behaving better he’s starting to get boring. The volunteers on this team were also great, we got on well and worked together easily and efficiently. My thanks therefore to Jen, Rick, and Christoph, as well as Marina and Zsuzsanna for a wonderful time.

The work and experiences themselves were amazing. I’ll never forget the large group of juvenile dolphins showing stereotypical teenage behaviour (shoving, pushing, playing and flirting with each other), the two dead sea turtles we found, or the worry on our final boat trip that we wouldn’t see any dolphins. I wish I was able to stay and carry on working on this project, preferably with this team, but I have to return to the UK. So it’s with fond memories and sadness that I say farewell to Vonitsa and my first Earthwatch experience. I’ll definitely be trying to get on others, possibly this one again, and also to support Tethys.

James (UK)

---
As the expedition drew nearer, we tried to keep our expectations as reasonable as possible. So many people had told us of the beauty of Greece and of the incredible food for years leading up to our flight to Athens and bus ride to Vonitsa. Despite some airport delays and significant jet lag, we finally made it. Now as we wrap up our Earthwatch expedition I can safely say that all of our expectations were met and exceeded. Greece delivered the as-promised amazing food, the sights, the generous locals, the heat and the dolphins. But the importance of all of those things pale in comparison to the people we worked with on this expedition. Our volunteer-mates were hard-working yet fun. We immediately connected with both James and Christoph and together we created a memorable expedition. Our leaders, Susie and Marina, were incredibly professional and yet casual at the same time. They made sure that the work got done but also passed along the awe of seeing the dolphins (and jellyfish and turtles, albeit mostly dead ones). As teachers ourselves, we know that many behind-the-scenes details need to get done to make any learning experience happen. Susie and Marina undoubtedly worked very hard to provide the best possible experience for us. Their dedication and hard work led to great days on the sea and wonderful learning opportunities on land. Their love of the animals and of their work was infectious. And, of course, their sense of humor brought smiles everyday. They are scientists, for sure, and we are not, but they made us feel like a vital part of a team doing important research.

On one of the first days we were lucky enough to spot 4 dolphins in Kalamos after many prior trips (before we arrived) turned up none. But even before that turn of good luck, we noted what an amazing thing Earthwatch is able to do. Our van was like a little United Nations with American, Austrian, Brit, Hungarian, and Italian practicing bits of Greek sharing our own cultural quirks. We traded pieces of our own lives back home to make for an enriching experience. We have become more aware consumers of fish and more appreciative of the work that scientists do. We will bring home a new-found respect for the sea and for the people that tend it. Most importantly we will return home having made 4 great friends and so many memories we will never forget. The expedition far exceeded our expectations because of the wonderful people we were able to share it with. Thanks for everything! Efharisto para poli!

Rick and Jen (USA)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers 1-9 August 2009

2009-08-10T19:01:00.003+03:00

The Earthwatch experience in Vonitsa was everything I had hoped it would be and much more. Not only did we get a good insight into the daily work of a marine researcher. We also got the privilege to be touched by the passion of Susie and Marina – two of the true heroes in Tethys; one of the organizations that stand between us and the total collapse of sea life as we have known it from the birth of mankind until today.

I think I speak for all the team members (in what I would absolutely call a stellar team) when I say that we will all return to our home countries filled with inspiration to make a difference in the fight for our oceans. That was the serious part. On top of that, I have had an absolutely wonderful time here. With warm, generous and fun people, both the team members and of course our hosts: diligent, helpful and sweet Susie and energetic, bubbly, Berlusconi-bashing Marina. Add to that the stunning Greek landscape, wholesome delicious food and the one around which everything revolves: Posi the dog. I could not possibly have spent a better 9 days!

Jonas (Sweden)

---

The summerheat of Greece seems to have melted the normally cold hart of this Scandinavian. I am feeling quite emotional about having to leave Vonitsa and getting on the plane home tomorrow. My expectations for this expedition were met and surpassed. Learning about the research was interesting and a great eye opener. Spotting dolphins was exiting, but the interaction with my fellow team mates and the researchers was without a doubt the best part. I have gained great respect for all the hard work and dedication required to give us -amateurs- a short glipse of the work of a marine biologist. Thank you so much!

Finally, I would like to give HUGE thanks to Marina and Zsuzsanna for taking such good care of us. Marina, you showed so much knowledge, energy and passion that I almost want to become a marine biologist myself. Susie, although you can be a bit bossy at times, I am just lost for words to describe how much I appreciate the effort you have put into guiding us through the expedition. It wouldn′t have been the same without you.

Christian (Sweden)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 21-29 May 2009

2009-07-29T18:59:00.004+03:00

I thought the lack of sleep was going to be a major problem when I arrived to find we would be awake at 7am each day, but with the atmosphere of the other volunteers, Susie and Joan the sleep was soon forgotten… until the beautiful siesta in the afternoon. Waking up to the thought of your day being spent identifying dolphins and their behaviour, as well as the odd sea turtles (they are so cute!), was amazing. It was a dream I have always wanted to fulfil. You almost get to know the animals through the cropping and matching activities in the afternoon and feel as though you are helping them directly by conducting a part of the data collection for scientific research. I had never seen a dolphin before, not even at a zoo, so the size was what struck me, as well as the cheeky grin on their face. The evening lectures were really interesting and I learnt so much, which was helpful to supplement the work we completed on the field. The video on overfishing, even though I had seen it previously, has a strong message and impressed me once again. Susie and Joan were so nice! And made us feel like friends straight away which was helpful as the first day was really daunting. I spent the previous night in hotel Vonitsa whih was unbelievably friendly but also quite lonely because I have never travelled alone before but, once we all met and went back to the field station I felt completely at ease. Joan cracked jokes almost instantly which allowed us to speak freely and Susie was so incredibly supportive. Thank you so much for giving me this opportunity it was totally lifechanging and made me even more passionate about conservation and how you should never give up!

Anabelle, U.K.

---

This was certainly the most unique experience I have had in my life. As an environmental lawyer, it felt amazing to work so close to the nature as well as to learn about dolphins and other marine mammals. Being at the sea in the morning and seeing so many dolphins was great! In addition, helping with the cropping and matching made me feel like if I was part of this project. The presentations and films were very enriching and for sure will contribute to a better development of my profession as well as for my personal evolution. Besides these most obvious things, this expedition turned to be much more than I expected in many ways. The house is extremely cosy and Joan and Susie made us feel at home all the time! We have had so much fun at lunch and dinner! They are very special people! The team was very nice and of course, Posi is so cute! To sum up, everything was great! Thank you so much Joan and Susie! I will miss these days!

Patricia, Brasil

---

The scenery, the atmosphere and the people were all wonderful. Joan and Susie were both very helpful and great fun. We were made to feel right at home from the very beginning. The lectures were very informative and interesting. We learned a lot about the dolphins and other marine mammals. The dolphin sightings were amazing! We got to see a large group feeding very close to our boat and the dolphins really put on a great show for us. They are so cute. We were extra lucky and saw about 16 dolphins in Kalamos on the first day in that area where, unfortunately, it is rather normal not to see any dolphins at all. We helped Susie and Joan with the cropping and matching and it was a great feeling to be able to help in this way. The heat was quite intense for us Canadians but we learned to do "siesta" in the afternoon after the first couple of days. The food was amazing. Everybody had a turn at making the evening meals so we all had input in what we ate. We feel we had a very good group of ladies, and Joan and we were all able to work very well together and good fun. This was the greatest experience in our lifetime. Thank you to Joan and Susie for making this such a wonderful experience.

Jenna and Kim, Canada

First sighting of the year in Kalamos

2009-07-27T22:10:00.005+03:00

Finally! Today, just after 15 minutes of navigation around the transparent waters of Kalamos we had our first sighting of the year. It was my seventh time surveying the area this year and I already had come to terms with the fact that a sighting, given the low dolphin density in these waters, was quite unlikely.

When my colleague Susie called out! I couldn’t believe it. My perplexity however, lasted only three seconds; the time it took me to turn around and spot the familiar silhouettes of the dolphin’s dorsal fins smoothly cutting the sea surface. As we approached them we confirmed that they were bottlenose dolphins. We spent over three hours photoidentifying the 16 dolphins of the group and recording their behaviour with the invaluable help of our five Earthwatch volunteers (Anabelle, Kim, Jenna, Lilly and Patricia). I cannot think of a better spot for the dolphins to pop up and make my day. Right in front of the beautiful village of Episkopi, where we had our field base for over 15 years and where, with no doubt, I have had some of the best moments of my life.

Because of my exclusive dedication to the research in the Amvrakikos Gulf for the past years, my last sighting in Kalamos was in 2004. Today, being around that group of dolphins felt special. Since I switched on the camera to get started with the photo-id, many memories kept coming to my mind: my first sighting (in a nearby location, 11 years ago); the first day I grabbed the camera with shaky hands after Giovanni (Bearzi) handed it to me and, with his sweet voice, said “Joan, six dolphins: photoidentify them all - you have half an hour”; the first research season in which me and my fratello Stefano (Agazzi) were in charge of the research and logistics on our own; and many hours spent in the company of these wonderful creatures…No doubt, I would not be the same person without all these experiences on my shoulders

The good old days of common and bottlenose dolphins being a regular sight around Kalamos are gone. However, allow me to be naïve and insufflate some optimism and hope. Today’s sighting also means that there is still a chance of things getting better in Kalamos. Today’s sighting was no mirage.

joAn

A sighting, which was different from others

2009-07-23T07:44:00.000+03:00

Back in 2007, I remember coming to the Amvrakikos Gulf with no previous experience. Thanks to the several months spent in the field, I am now more adept, but I still have to learn how to stand up on my own after a fall. While working in different study areas with my colleagues, I’ve got many chances of broadening my skills. Advise from my teachers Giovanni, Stefano and Joan allowed me to improve myself, but then the time arrives when one must fly away from the nest.

This time arrived earlier than I thought when Joan asked me to run a boat survey on my own. I felt fortunate to finally get such a nice opportunity and although my knees were shaking a bit, I felt joy.

On that morning, the Amvrakikos Gulf was completely flat so the circumstances were ideal. I decided to head towards the northwestern part of the Gulf. Everyone on board was eagerly scanning the sea surface until… out at 11! When the dolphins surfaced in the distance, my heart started to beat fiercely. But as we got closer I had become more focused on my several tasks, and oblivious of my initial excitement.

When I realized that there was a calf in the group, a smile appeared on my face. It is always a nice moment to see a tiny life following her mother with its clumsy surfacings. The dolphins, including the mother-calf pair, approached a fish farm. This was unexpected, because calves normally do not get close to the cages. At that moment, I realised that I wasn’t just an observer but I could understand what was going on and share this knowledge with my group of volunteers.

It was amazing to see things from another perspective compared to the sightings when I was acting as a research assistant, and someone else was in charge. Things that only a year ago appeared so overwhelmingly difficult, like driving the boat, taking good photos, recording the behaviour and directing people on board, all at once, now unfolded smoothly, and this gave me even more confidence and pleasure.

I still have a lot to learn in this field, but at least I could enjoy the feeling of being a leader for one day and experiencing how it feels to be responsible for a group of people on board, for all the data collection and for Joan’s ‘baby’, the inflatable.

In the end, everybody survived the first sighting with me. One volunteer, Jane, had a particularly good experience and her feelings came to surface after we moored the boat, back at the port, when I saw tears of joy in her eyes. Guys - it was a great experience for me, too! Thank you for being such a good team!

Zsuzsanna Pereszlényi

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 11-19 July 2009

2009-07-19T10:41:00.010+03:00

What an incredible opportunity it has been to participate in Earthwatch’s Dolphins of Greece expedition. After a few excruciatingly hot days in Athens, I travelled to the indescribable town of Vonitsa, which pictures will not do justice to reflect its true beauty. The past eight days have been filled with memories, fun times, and educational opportunities that will stay with me for a lifetime. I feel so fortunate to have worked with a team of amazing volunteers - Avril, Allegra, Jane, and Matt. Also, as an educator myself, I have truly appreciated Joan and Susie’s (each unique) teaching styles which have allowed us all to learn so much about not only dolphins and Greece, but also a wide range of issues critical to the preservation of our Earth’s valuable resources.

Courtney, USA

---

Training
Excitement
Sea turtles
Dolphins, dolphins, dolphins
Feeding frenzy
Sightings galore

Avril, Australia

---

What can I say? This has been one of the most memorable experiences I have ever had and I enjoyed every bit of it, from the amazing dolphins to the unbearable heat! Vonitsa is a beautiful place and the introduction to it couldn’t have been better! I’ve learnt so much in a week, it’s incredible! I definitely won’t forget the dolphins bowriding our boat! I never thought I’d get to see them so close, let alone watch them feeding and swimming only a few meters away from us! Thanks for all the laughter and amazing moments. This expedition definitely showed me that it’s worth fighting for these beautiful animals!

Allegra, Switzerland

---

Vonitsa, Vonitsa. Oh how I will miss you. With your dolpins, gyro pitas and half-liter Heinekens, this is an experience that will never be forgotten. The heat rash and lack of modern room cooling practices will not be missed, however. Being my second Earthwatch trip, I came with some level of expectation and my stay here exceeded them all. This expedition would not have been so enjoyable if there were any other individuals in charge besides Joan and Susie. They're the greatest! Best of luck to the entire Tethys team and the wonderful work they are doing here.

Matt, USA

---

Dolphins of Greece,
Dolphins of Greece,
Oh how I will miss you.
You have surpassed the expectations that I have come with, and leave me to take a fresh new heart and eye for the world that surrounds me.
The land that you reside comes anew with the species that we have to help preserve.
Dolphins of Greece, your eye, your breath, your percussive and aerial behaviour never fails to awe me.
The beauty of the way that you travel and the way that you feed will always stay close to my heart.
I take with me the fond memories of you.
For the children of our future, I promise to educate about you.
Your protectors, amongst the many, Joan, Susie, Tethys, Earthwatch and many more will continue to care and watch over you.
Joan and Susie, thank you for teaching us about this species.
The new found knowledge that you have bestowed unto me will continue through my students.
The intelligence that you have shared will continue to spread through me.
My heart smiles as I leave Vonitsa.

Jane, USA

Where to Begin to Make Change

2009-07-11T15:16:00.004+03:00

Coming to Vonitsa as a research assistant happened naturally for me. The Mediterranean Sea and its beautiful coasts, is a region very close to my heart, and I immediately knew that I had to be a part of the Ionian Dolphin Project.

It was late evening when I arrived in Vonitsa. I managed to block out the lively music from the packed tavernas and focus on the lectures and terms racing through my mind. I reviewed the highlighted papers that were rolled up under my arm and I was certain that I was prepared for my first time working in the field, and my first time with any cetaceans in the wild.

My first sighting of a group of bottlenose dolphins came sooner than I had expected. Alongside the Earthwatch volunteers, on our first trip towards the center of the Amvrakikos Gulf, two adults stretched on the surface and peered out in our direction before an entire group of dolphins came into sight and began to forage. I felt the adrenaline immediately, and of course my mind went blank. Thank you Joan, for always getting me back on track.

As a Biology student you become overwhelmingly aware of the accumulating threats facing marine mammals and their sensitive habitats. As most of these threats occur on a global scale, they are often difficult to grasp and they only become a constant reminder that you are just one individual. Ultimately, it becomes all too easy to get lost in your studies and to lose sight of your way and where to begin to make change.

In the short time I’ve spent in Vonitsa I’ve learned more than I could have prepared myself for. I feel like I’ve grown more as a Biologist during these ten days than in my five years at the University. Thank you to the Earthwatch volunteers for sharing their time, from the dedication in the field to the painful belly laughs over dinner. On my last day out in the Gulf we sighted two calves with their mothers foraging by their sides. It is with these experiences, when science becomes something tangible, something that you can share with others, that all the lectures, the stress, and the long nights finally make sense again, and you remember that this is how one person can begin to make a change.

Iva (Canada/Serbia)

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 1-9 July 2009

2009-07-10T10:19:00.006+03:00

After a long trip I am usually ready to return home, but working with Joan and Iva and the dolphins has been such a wonderful experience that I wish it could go on for a few more days.

Our group was very impressed with Joan’s abilities, especially to take photo’s while driving the boat with one foot, while giving directions to us volunteers on where to keep our eyes. “Shout louder please Sophie, I can’t hear you”. Joan, your knowledge, dedication, and patience is admirable. I will take your message back to my students to inspire them, and challenge them to take better care of our planet so that dolphins and every other creature (humans too!) can enjoy a beautiful healthy planet.

Many thanks to Iva for teaching me how to use the netpad and all her help with the photo cropping, grouping and matching. Without your help we’d still be working on the first batch of photos.

Maureen (USA)

---

For 9 days, I was living in my childhood fantasy that I would have a dolphin as my pet and have a bathtub big enough for it. Here in Vonitsa, I have a beautiful “bathtub” big enough to hold more than 150 amazing dolphins, lots of sea turtles and different kinds of fishes. When the dolphins were surrounding us, we could hear them breathing so peacefully. I almost jumped out of the boat to swim with them. (Sorry Joan, I know you said they’re wild animals just like tigers and lions. Swimming with them is unpredictable)

The day we did our last survey at Amvrakikos Gulf, I saw a group of 5 dolphins in the afternoon from the beach. They were about only 200m away which supposedly to be the closest sighting “ever”! We took it as a gesture of saying goodbye to us.

This is my first Earthwatch expedition and I enjoyed every second of it. Joan is an experienced marine biologist with great knowledge and enthusiasm. He is also a REAL guy and you feel like yourself around him. All of our group members liked him a lot and probably went home with lots of precious “quotes” from him. (Some might not be approperiate for kids) Thanks Joan, Iva, Marcia, Maureen, Sophie and Bo for this wonderful experience in my life!

Nan (USA)

---

I visited Greece many years ago as a tourist and always wanted to return as something more. This expedition and Earthwatch have provided me with that opportunity. Joan is a magnificent research scientist doing and sharing so much more than merely his knowledge. He is implementing a program to hopefully change the fate of the dolphins he studies.

Iva’s patience and kind expertise (even as she learns ) is inspirational. Thank you for this wonderful opportunity. The sea, the dolphins, the village and all of the knowledge that you imparted are appreciated and will be shared many times over with friends and associates. Hopefully a greater impact will be made as a result of all of your efforts!

Marcia (USA)

---

When I arrived I had never seen a dolphin outside an aquarium. Now, a week later, I have a mental catalogue of cetacean friends. Tip for new photo-matchers: mnemonics help! “Wedge” and “Kissy Lips” were much easier (and more fun!) to spot than “A2” and “A14”. I enjoyed the simple, slow life of a (pampered, wannabe) marine biologist. I ate delicious food. I breathed clean air. I learned a lot. I laughed a lot! Thanks, Joan, for showing us your version of what life can be when it’s not about “stuff”.

Bo (USA)

PS – Some useful Greek phrases:
KaliMERa! – Don’t forget your sun screen!
TeKANete? – Have you stepped on an urchin yet today?
PolikaLA! – Not yet!
YASSas! – Save the dolphins!

---

This has been a “brilliantly lovely” introduction to Greece, I'm so glad I came on this project. I feel like I've learnt so much in just a short space of time. Despite not being able to differentiate between 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock in the pressure of the moment, not yelling loud enough, and getting the distances all wrong, I hope I've helped in a small way (and not frustrated Joan too much!).

Congrats to Joan for all his hard work and dedication, its very impressive and inspiring. Congrats also to Iva, a top notch assistant! I will leave this place with many special memories – from “floating potatoes”, to “blip” the dolphin, to yummy greek salad (with cucumbers), to the “totally awesome” moment when a dolphin was bowriding right next to me!!!

Since I'm studying science at university I just want to mention how encouraging it was to see that the work done was carefully considered so as to be scientifically sound, and therefore valuable to the wider scientific community. Keep up the good work Joan et al ☺

Thanks for all the laughter, but also for showing one person can make a difference in the world. All the best to my lovely team of Nan & Bo, Marcia, and Maureen.

Sophie (UK)

What do dolphins in Greece have to do with whales in Maine?

2009-07-07T22:58:00.005+03:00

What do dolphins in Greece have to do with whales in Maine? We wanted to know so we went to Greece to find out! As teachers in Expeditionary Learning schools, we qualified to apply for a grant from Fund for Teachers and received a fellowship to work with Earthwatch Institute.

For 10 days last Summer we worked with Tethys Research Institute as volunteers on the Dolphins of Greece expedition. We learned so much about dolphins and how they are identified and even got to know some of them by name. We found out what marine mammals need in order to survive and what conservation efforts exist or are being proposed in order to protect them. We learned about the methods scientists use to observe and record data in the field and turn that data into long term studies that demonstrate how people play a vital role in the survival of species. We also learned that all species are equally fascinating and equally important and that they are all interconnected. All species are threatened by pollution, loss of habitat and over fishing; and all species play a vital role in the delicate balance of nature.

As teachers we needed to take all that we had learned and transform it into an expedition for children that focused on the relevant content and skills they needed to learn at their grade level. And, as teachers of English as a second language, we needed to find a way to present information and concepts in a comprehensible manner. In addition to learning lots of information about individual species and forces at work within the ocean ecosystem, we wanted students to develop a spirit of curiosity and adventure. We wrote grants to buy materials and pay for field experiences. We went to teacher workshops and developed relationships with local experts. We met with other school personnel to get feedback and refine our plans. We named our expedition: The Sea and Me and began in the spring of ’09. Our guiding questions were: 1- Why should people care about the oceans? 2- Who lives in Casco Bay, Maine? Finally, 3- Is the Casco Bay ecosystem endangered?

With the students, we conducted experiments, watched You Tube videos, observed plankton, and took many trips to the shore to observe and record data. Through an L.L. Bean grant we were able to take our 2 classes on a 5 hour whale watch 20 miles out from Portland Harbor. Even though the trip was long and arduous (including lots of throwing up) everyone loved it! For days afterward students came to school asking when we were going in the boat again.

We developed a list of plants and animals that live here in Maine’s coastal waters and began researching their characteristics, place in the food web and threats to their survival. We looked at local sources of pollution and other threats to the animals such as overfishing and gear entanglement and read about laws created to protect them. We worked with local artists, authors and experts in the field. After researching and learning to care about the animals, the students created a final product in order to share what they had learned with others. The Middle School students created a book containing vital information about each species. The first and second grade class created a board game that illustrates the connections between plants, animals and people.

Our culminating event was a presentation of the final products to other classes of students at the East End Community School. In all, we created 10 sets of books and games to distribute. Teachers were impressed by the advanced vocabulary students used to explain complicated concepts. We were impressed by their excitement to learn, the bonding that developed between the two groups of students and their collaboration in this endeavor, and by their deeper understanding of the importance of preserving the ocean ecosystem and all that lives in it and depends on it.

Amy and Marcia, USA

---

In August 2008 Amy and Marcia participated as volunteers in the Dolphins of Greece expedition. From the first instant of their arrival they were eager to learn and to gather as much information as possible to take back with them to their classrooms. What they have managed to accomplish with their students is impressive and should be an example to be followed by many. Well done girls!

joAn

Susie in regalia

2009-07-07T16:05:00.000+03:00

Tethys collaborator Zsuzsanna Pereszlényi received her MSc in Biology during an official cerimony at the University of Pécs, Hungary, after having also passed a most challenging State Exam.

Susie graduated with a thesis titled "Feeding behaviour of common bottlenose dolphins Tursiops truncatus in the Amvrakikos Gulf, Greece".

GB

---
Photo: Susie in regalia at her MSc cerimony

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 21-29 June 2009

2009-06-29T09:19:00.004+03:00

Ok, so some of us get a bit confused about 9 o’clock vs. 3 o’clock, 8 o’clock vs. 2 o’clock, but we yell it out with great enthusiasm! My favorites from our group were the “Over there, by the bird!” and “Look, by the blue buoy!” Fortunately, Joan (almost always) kept a sense of humor about our novice ways.

It was an incredible week and I am sad to see it come to an end — even two days of rain couldn’t dampen our spirits or our opportunities to experience the amazing bottlenose dolphins of the gulf. To see newborns and juveniles and their protective moms was beyond description. My favorite “moment” (of many wonderful moments) was to sit quietly amongst a large group of dolphins, to listen to their breathing, to the unique sounds they make as they feed, and to hear and see how they communicate and coordinate with one another. Nothing can compare; it was an almost mystical experience that I wished could continue for hours.

I have learned much not only about the dolphins, but also about the complex interrelationships between fishing practices, pollution, fish farms, and the survival of the many species in our oceans. Thank you, Joan, for being such a great teacher and for your passion. The work Tethys and Earthwatch are doing will make such a difference. Thanks also for the opportunity to be a very small part of your efforts. I highly recommend this trip to anyone with interest in dolphins and our oceans!

Lynda, USA

---
Just to have the opportunity to be on the water in this gorgeous location is a pure pleasure, but this total experience exceeded my expectations in all regards. To be surrounded by feeding dolphins while seagulls circled overhead and terns dive-bombed for fish was a magical experience I will never forget.

I leave this trip with an increased respect for both the research and the researcher—how Joan could drive the boat while answering questions and at the same time manage to photograph all those animals was awesome. We now know how difficult it can be to identify an individual dolphin, but then Joan made it look so easy. When he could instantly identify a totally unmarked dorsal fin as the juvenile offspring of “Gindra” it made me realize how well he knows the 150 dolphins of Amvrakikos Gulf. And the sea turtles on the last day were amazing!

The video selection was a good thing. Never before have I considered what the fish eat that I consume. More “food for thought...”

Five people who had never previously met managed to form a good team. I thought I would die when I realized we would actually need to PLAN the meals as well as cook and clean, but that, too, turned out to really contribute to working as a group. Finally, Posi was much appreciated, because every once in a while you really need to pet a dog!

Karin, USA

---

I thought I had made a mistake to come to Vonitsa after I filled out the enrollment forms. I felt I was joining a boot camp, but my experience in Vonitsa turned out to be pleasant and exciting.

I learned a great deal about the research done with the dolphins and turtles. The videos shown were informative and mind awakening. I learned more than I had expected and I am glad I came. Joan is very serious with the training and research, which is very important for the type of work done. I am confident and trust that my contribution was for a great cause and effort.

I understand the results of this research are made public to the Vonitsa’s community. It is critical to bring awareness to and get people involved in the project, so they feel part of this effort (it is their town), bring possible solutions, and make the project successful. Thank you to ALL of you for doing this job and for bringing awareness of this wonderful world of the dolphins.

Lilia, USA

All good things must come to an end

2009-06-21T08:00:00.004+03:00

Isn’t it strange how six weeks sometimes feel like a small eternity? That’s at least the impression I have as my time here in Amvrakikos Gulf is drawing to an end. Once immersed in the pleasant routine of combined field and analytic work, everything else fades away and you feel like you have been here forever. Although a cliché, it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that this experience has paved the road for a new chapter in my life.

Professionally, I have learnt and developed tremendously, and have no doubt that this is my ‘path in life’ (to throw in another cliché). Personally, I have had a lot of fun and enjoyed every day out at sea. ‘Conservationally’, I hope that my work will make some kind of contribution to cetacean research.

On my last day we also made a second survey of the site of Kalamos, and the comparison with Amvrakikos is rather striking. This place looks like a paradise, but is unfortunately a paradise in decline, for dolphin-lovers at least. Listening to Joan describing the situation of 10 years ago, it is difficult to believe that hardly any cetaceans or marine mega fauna remain.

Being able to follow your beliefs and passions as part of your work is a privileged few are entitled. I thus feel doubly grateful for having had the opportunity to work with Tethys as a research assistant. A special thanks is due to Joan and Giovanni, whose guidance and support have made my time here not only possible but also challenging and exciting. Bon courage for next week Joan!

Christina Geijer

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 11-19 June 2009

2009-06-19T07:59:00.004+03:00

I want to thank Earthwatch and Joan for a remarkable experience. Participating in your project has been an opportunity to visit a beautiful country and to contribute, even on a small scale, to a study that impacts our lifetime and future lifetimes. I am leaving the project with more knowledge than I had when I arrived, and I appreciate this. Once again, thank you, Joan, for sharing your knowledge with us newcomers and for appreciating that volunteers provide extra eyes and hands for your research. Best wishes to you and Tethys as you continue your efforts.

Joyce, USA

---

My heart is full. This has been a wonderful experience. Being on the gulf and being able to observe the dolphins engaging in their natural behavior is a treasure that I will carry with me and share with others. I am also grateful for the opportunity to learn how to recognize the individuals and to crop photos, match and catalogue those individuals. I believe in and agree with what you are doing. Keep up the good work. I also have to mention that I was very grateful to have Posi to come “home” to each day. “Be the change you wish to see in the world”. We must learn to live by these words if we hope to see a positive difference in the state of our Earth. Being a part of projects like these gives us insight into how our every day choices has a definite impact on all aspects of life, and living beings. Thank you again for the opportunity to help make a positive difference. Efkharisto poli!

Arlene, USA

---

Life Changing trip... The lightbulb is certainly on now thanks to this Earthwatch project I had the opportunity to volunteer on. We learned so much! My mind was like a sponge drinking in all that Joan had to teach us during our time here. The documentaries after the computer work were very educational and I will never buy food the same way ever again. Had never seen a fish farm before coming here. The experience of the symbiotic relationship of the seagulls and the dolphins was beautiful. The town and the people of Vonitsa were wonderful. I had a great time with my team members. The learning curve with the computer work was very slight and therefore a fun experience in recognizing the individual animals by their fin. Great Trip! Would highly recommend an Earthwatch group to others. I plan on another project for next year... maybe whales? I am looking forward to the links Joan said he will send to us so we can continue our education and that of our family and friends about these beautiful mammals.

Patty, USA

Andrea Catherwood visits the Dolphins of Greece expedition

2009-06-15T09:41:00.005+03:00

What an incredible experience. Looking out across the Ionian sea at such a idyllic Greek postcard perfect scene it isn’t hard to believe there are dolphins here, but I was still unprepared for the huge thrill of observing them at such close quarters as they feed, socialise and occasionally perform aerobatics.

I feel totally immersed in another world both on water and at the field station where we live. I admit to taking a nerdish delight in learning to crop and match the photos of dolphin fins that are used to identify the dolphins we see each day and that help with the research being done to try and protect these vulnerable animals. It’s a long time since I absorbed such a lot of new information and enjoyed myself so much at the same time.

The chance to live and work with a scientist as knowledgeable and charismatic as Joan Gonzalvo is a real privilege. His passion for marine mammals and protecting their habitat is infectious. The arguments against pollution and overfishing that are ruining this precious environment are overwhelming. I hope that through the work of Earthwatch and their partner organisations the dolphins will survive here in the Amvrakikos Gulf and elsewhere, but that depends on real action to reverse current unsustainable levels of commercial fishing which have, for example, decimated the nearby dolphin population at Kalamos by robbing them of their food.

I don’t want to show the photographs of this amazing trip to my children when they’re older and say ‘Did you know that back in the olden days there used to be dolphins in the Mediterrenean.’

Andrea
---
Andrea Catherwood is a British broadcaster and journalist writing a travel article for the Independent on Sunday newspaper.

First survey of the year in Kalamos

2009-06-11T13:10:00.000+03:00

On June 8th, we carried out the first survey of the year in the area of Kalamos. It felt good to navigate these waters, where I had my first dolphin sighting ten years ago, after four years without personally doing any survey in this area.

However, no dolphins were spotted across more than 3 hours of survey under good sea state conditions. This was no surprise, considering the negative dolphin population trends that we have been describing over the years.

During the survey, countless anecdotes about the numerous sightings I had in these crystal-clear waters came to mind. It is hard to believe that an area that was so full of marine life just a decade ago has become such a desert. Surveying the area of Kalamos will help us keep in mind that bottlenose dolphin abundance in the Amvrakikos Gulf cannot be given for granted. Dolphins can and sometimes do decline in relatively short periods of time, and we must ensure that those we are studying in the Gulf won’t face the kind of anthropogenic impact that affected the area of Kalamos, former common dolphin paradise.

joAn

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 1-9 June 2009

2009-06-10T16:35:00.004+03:00

I’m not much of a writer but after being here for almost three weeks I feel like I have so much to say. The problem is to gather the words to say how I feel.

It has been so amazing the whole experience… it has just been out of this world for me. I have learned so much from my two groups but especially from Joan and Christina. Joan has a talent like I have never seen before. The way he spots the dolphins, tracks them and monitors their every movement (with the help of his excellent volunteers). Christina is always eager to learn. During her spare time she even likes to write every one's recipes down so she can experiment herself.

I wish I were staying for another three weeks so I could keep having new experiences with the dolphins, with the new groups and with Christina and Joan. I would like to know more about overfishing and how it is affecting these amazing creatures in our ocean although Joan did an excellent job of explaining. Even after just the first week I felt like going outside and screaming my lungs out at all those fishermen who are destroying the marine life and natural habitats with their intrusive fishing gears and to all the greedy ones who just will not stop until everything is gone...

It is very nice here in the Gulf of Amvrakikos. We saw dolphins every day except one. But that could soon change; on our last day we went to Kalamos and we did not see one dolphin. There the water is crystal clear compared with Amvrakikos but their decline there was due to over fishing and Tethys researchers actually witnessed it. It is really sad to see such an amazing animal disappear as if it was never there… Luckly bottom trawlers and purse seiners are not allowed in the Gulf of Amvrakikos or who knows what the situation would be...

I’m glad I could help out on this course and will definitely be interested in doing another course like this one in the future. When I’ll get home I am going to spread the word about pollution, overfishing and the effects they have on our ecosystems. I would like to thank Joan and Christina for this wonderful and amazing experience that has really opened my eyes to a lot of things.

Rory, Ireland

---

I booked this expedition way back in November 2008 for something to look forward to in 2009. Also, I had attended a couple of Earthwatch lectures prior to deciding which expedition to participate on (including the lecture on this expedition a few months earlier). As the date got closer, I got more nervous as I had no idea what to expect...what kind of people would I be living with for over a week, would I see any dolphins and would I mess up any of the data that would be collected for the research?... I am glad to say that I was put in a varied group of people from different backgrounds and with different experiences.

I think it is fair to say that we all got on and will have fond memories and stories to share with friends and family back home (however, though we all respected each other, I would have preferred more privacy in the living quarters but that’s the prude and ‘Sloanie’ in me) but it does not compare to (or take away) the exhilirating feeling of being in Joan’s Zodiac at quite high speed looking, finding and observing the dolphins. That is, by far, the best part of the expedition and I don’t think there is anything in my life that could ruin those moments. Plus, I think I did OK with the science bit.

The next challenge for me is how to apply what I have learnt from this trip into my day-to-day living when I return to reality. Finally, I have a lot of respect for Joan with his dedication to his work. It can’t be easy for him to have all these strangers turning up almost week-by-week but I think it is fair to say that those who have chosen to participate on this trip value the underlying reason for his work.

Khadiza, UK

---
This was my first experience of an Earthwatch project and my first experience of doing anything like this. I wasn’t sure what would be expected of me, or how capable I would be of performing the required tasks. I’m pleased to say that Joan and Christina were very thorough and patient in their instruction and I soon felt like I was providing useful work for the project. It was sometimes difficult to remain focused in the boat, due to the beauty of the animals we were observing and Joan had to bring me back to earth with comments such as: “Exactly where is WOW” and “Over There! We will dump someone Over There!”

After the initial culture shock for some of us at the sleeping arrangements, the accommodation proved comfortable and we soon fell into a (mainly) harmonious existence. The communal cooking and meals were fun and it was also enjoyable to visit some of the local restaurants. I was constantly impressed by the commitment and professionalism of all those that work on this project, full or long term, I’m not sure I could handle it.

Just from what I have described to her on the phone, my wife has already expressed a strong interest in joining the project next year.

Jeff, UK (Greek resident)

Thanks for a wonderful day

2009-06-06T23:25:00.005+03:00

On board Joan (PI), Christina (research assistant), Khadiza, Jeff, Rory, Jenny and myself (Luca). As usual, we took the research boat at 8 am, after several hours surveying the waters of the Amvrakikos Gulf the crew was a little bit depressed, because we had not spotted any dolphins and the sun was hammering.

With the patience that characterizes me, I was the first to ask to go back to the shore. Fortunately Joan and Christina convinced us, with biologist tricks, to carry on for another half hour. Hence, a lot happened... Jenny was the first one to spot a dolphin fin with the help of Jeff. Immediately, we all started to see dolphins swimming, splashing and surface feeding on what was likely a large school of sardines. They were everywhere and occasionally at just few meters from our boat. It was an amazing feeling seeing these splendid creatures all around us… but more was yet to come!

As a Sicilian free-diver coming from the school of the several times world champion Pellizzari, Apnea Academy, I often visit the islands of Linosa and Lampedusa. They are two sanctuaries for sea turtles, my favourite sea animal. Especially in Linosa I always visit the “hospital” of sea turtles, treating animals by-caught in fish nets or injured as consequence of big boats going far too fast or with too little “brain”. However, it is very rare to see them swimming in nature nowadays. Well, yesterday Joan spotted one sea turtle, and we were all able to observe this fantastic animal, of at least 80 cm of carapace, swimming and resting at the surface. What a fantastic surprise! Truly an example of the immense beauty of nature.

In the Gulf, the visibility underwater is very reduced (just a few metres), which made our encounter even more unique. As a free diver in these last 15 years I have seen the inhabitants of the sea getting ill and progressively disappear. That’s why this encounter was so magic, you can presume that because of saying this I’m a radical ecologist, but this is not the case.

As a matter of fact before being a free diver, I am a spearfisher “a nasty boy in the mind of ecologist”, who for 20 years has been fishing around the coast of Sicily, south Italy and Greece. Telling you the truth the underwater world has no secrets for me, sad but true every time I go fishing now the chances to see and take a fish are increasingly more remote. It seems that the sea is progressively getting empty and very fast. This is why I chose to come over here and give my small contribution in terms of money and work to Earthwatch and Tethys. Not much, but something.

Well, not much more to say. Thanks for a wonderful day. I want to thank also this bunch of people I found here. Jeff with his English humour, Rory with his eternal support, Jenny and her stories on bird watching, Khadiza and her photoidentification skills and Christina for remembering me that feminism is not dead. You all made my life better, this 10 days here will remain in my memory. Last but not least, Joan, thanks to you also, even if you drive the boat as Schumacher in his best days.

Luca, Italy

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 21-29 May 2009

2009-06-01T21:43:00.004+03:00

Connectedness makes me feel content, gives me hope, drives me to do and be more than I ever might otherwise—and this Earthwatch experience has been all about that, in my mind, giving me so much connection to things I have lost touch with over the years. Idealism about a better future. Curiosity about other ways of life. I see the connections better now between what happens at fisheries and what I eat from the supermarket. I understand a little more what about the connection between articles in magazines, documentaries, and public policy and what goes on behind the scenes in terms of what scientists are doing in the field.

The dedication of the staff is so inspiring. That they are also especially charming and interesting was a bonus, but I see now how that kind of openness and ability to connect with others makes them ideal for the human side of this important work. I’m sure it is a struggle for Joan to make friends with the locals, but he seems to be up to the task. Most importantly, I feel more connected to the effort to help these animals and these ecosystems.

I am now more motivated, better armed with powerful information, to take the message to friends and family and neighbours that we all have to work to solve the problem of over fishing our oceans. We can do something and we have to do something. Now. All my hopeful expectations for this trip were fulfilled. (Well...Joan never once let me drive the boat or shoot with that camera of his.... ☹. And I would not have minded seeing a loggerhead up close....) And none of that which I feared came to pass: It wasn’t too hot, I didn’t get sick on the boat (there was that one agonizing morning when I was afraid to say that I needed to fare il pee pee—hell, I was prepared to jump overboard, but thankfully this wasn’t necessary), the group dynamics were very enjoyable and enriching (I’d forgotten how much I can appreciate the energy of young people!), and we saw LOTS of dolphins doing their thing in the wild.

Personally, I was also very jazzed by the pelicans—they were like parasailers coming in for a landing, their wings are so wide. This experience has opened my eyes. I think of how I take so much for granted—eating fish whenever I want really (and I used to feel so good about that! I mean, it’s not red meat, right?), throwing my clothes in the dryer, jumping into a hot shower without a hesitation—and I am determined now that I can no longer live in this way without at the very least being mindful of my footprint. How can I make a difference, what can I do to be more conservation minded? This experience has given me some answers, some motivation, and for that I am exceedingly grateful. Thank you, Earthwatch and may I live up to my own expectations for myself now when I return to the States.

Laura, USA

---
My first impression on the Zodiac - “Oh, this is what it is like to be a Somali pirate!”, but here we were not chasing boats to hijack, but rather chasing dolphins to understand them, and how they are affected by their habitat and how they adapt to its degradation. The work being done by Joan and the Tethys Institute is a beautiful example of how science can provide knowledge about the fascinating creatures with whom we share this globe, but also how that knowledge can be translated to affect public policy regarding the environment and the creatures who live in it. I felt privileged to be able to be a small part of that effort. Because the dolphins live at the top of the food chain (like tuna and swordfish) they can serve as a “bellweather species”, who serve as a proxy for the health of the environment (in addition to being a fascinating to watch).

What impressed me was how Joan and his colleagues have taken the information they acquire and not just turn them into publications to appear in scientific journals, but also use it to try to make a difference for both cetaceans and people alike. Their understanding covers the interrelationship between the dolphins themselves, the dolphins and their environment, and the political and cultural forces that lead to the degradation of the environment in notable. Their efforts at education, not only to the volunteers, but to the local community and to the larger public is impressive. I thought that during this trip I would learn about dolphins, but I learned so much more, especially about the ecosystems of the oceans.

I am a scientist so the process we went through everyday was new but familiar – a protocol and a procedure, different ways of coding data, and then crunching the fine detailed information to get a larger picture. But here the rewards were so tangible - sighting dolphins and being able to track them, seeing mothers with their newborn dolphins (who over the course of one small week learned to dive like an adult), and after days of struggling in which all dolphins fins looked alike, finally beginning to see distinct patterns. All of this added up to the huge satisfaction during the final day of being able to distinguish between two newborn dolphins (who we affectionately named “batboy” for his rakishly sweptback fin and “son of stubby” for his rounded fin, reminiscent of one of the adults).

And then there are the people who make this all happen. Joan has my deep admiration and respect. He clearly is a thorough and thoughtful scientist, who has a larger vision (and plan) for how his systematic scientific endeavors can have an important impact. His good humor, patience (and at times appropriate impatience), ability to communicate, knack for teaching and team building, and overall joy for life and the life of an activist scientist are infectious. And given my experience training graduate students, it was a real treat for me to watch him work with Christina – leading her, guiding her, and challenging her. And it was equally enjoyable to watch Christina as she learned the ropes, becoming more comfortable and familiar with the procedures, and also how she pushed back at Joan, asserting her independent viewpoint when appropriate, and stepping into the role of not just a student, but a partner. I admire her courage because all her mistakes and missteps were pointed out in front of a bunch of relative strangers. To retain such good humor under those conditions takes a special type of person.

And I also feel fortunate to have such good groupmates – Rory, ever so polite and considerate (with really sharp eyes and a really good way of catching the dolphins on video, although sometimes I could not understand everything he said in his thick Irish brogue) and Elah, who willingness to be open to experiences and just “be” in the world seemed a calm antidote to the chaos on board when the dolpins arrived – because they made the trip all the more special. I have learned so much in these past 9 days, and I am already thinking of the ways that I might build on what I have experienced to try and make a difference.

Marie, USA

---

I was looking forward to being the first volunteer to participate in the program twice, but i was beat to the punch by the very lovely volunteer, Elah, whose entry is next. This experience has truly been one to remember. This is only my first session here and I already feel as if I’ve learned enough to change my views on the way I live my life. Although I’ve never been much of a fish eater (as the other volunteers have learned from barely being able to swallow what I’m sure was delectable shrimp made by Joan) I wouldn’t soon become one. After watching many documentaries on overfishing and discussing with Joan and my fellow volunteers of the current state of our oceans, I realize that we are responsible for changing how we manage our day to day lives regarding what we consume.

I’ve had an overall fantastic experience and am glad that I get to be here for another nine days. I would also like to mention Joan. Obviously without him a program like this could never exist. It’s with enthusiams and passion that he conducts his work and manages his volunteers. I’m deeply envious that he gets to wake up every morning and do what he loves and that he is able to share his experiences with the volunteers in the hopes that they retain and pass his message along.

Rory, Ireland

---

Before I get into the specifics of what I’ve learned during the past two session, I would just like to start off by saying that this has been a truly amazing experience. Aside from being able to go out and see dolphins every day (albeit, every day save one) there were quite a few bonuses. Never having been to this part of the country before, the volunteers were able to take in the stunning scenery with fresh eyes as well as appreciate the beautiful sight that is a newborn swimmings alongside it’s mother and a few dedicated protectors.

However, I was pleasantly surprised that as a volunteer I wasn’t solely along for the ride. I felt as if I was helping to conduct valuable research rather than being made to do useless busy work and paying for it. Instead I was granted an experience that I will be talking, if not bragging about, for years to come. Although I specifically chose this program because it was in Greece and specialized in dolphins, during my first session there were two Earthwatch employees here as well. One who chose this project because she is a marine biologist, and the other who was randomly assigned to this program. Just after one day, it became quite obvious that the latter had gotten just as into it as me; a life long, die-hard dolphin fan.

Aside from going out on the inflatable each day, we were granted a significant amount of free time which, for me was mainly devoted to napping. However, I was pleasantly surprised by all the other little activities made available to us by this quaint town. Aside from sleeping, I had the option of taking walks to mini island, grabbing a beer or coffee with the other volunteers or just plain lazing about on the beach. I got a wicked nice tan if I do say so myself. Aside from that I would like to say that this situation is quite neat. The other volunteers, Marie, Laura and Rory and Christina, Joan’s research assistant, are amazingly nice and are here for the same reason I am; to learn about dolphins in their natural habitat and the threats the oceans face (Joan can answer any question posed to him), and just enjoy my time doing something I love in a fantastic environment.

I also want to throw out there that in the past twenty days (for me), I’ve eaten some of the best food in my life. As well as experienced the best coffee. After each little excursion, as I’m sure others have been privee to, we stopped for coffee at the same restaurant where Joan knows everyone and had the fabulous cafe freddo. And no offense to the dolphins as they are majestic creatures, but the coffee, I believe is a note worth ending on.

Elah, USA

What is a dolphin group?

2009-05-29T11:18:00.000+03:00

That group-living animals mainly exist in groups is pretty straightforward. What is less straightforward is how to define what constitutes a group, particularly for elusive and socially intelligent creatures like bottlenose dolphins.

In areas of high dolphin densities - like the Amvrakikos Gulf - it is common to see plenty of dolphins spread around the boat at various distances. Should all of these individuals be categorised as a single group, even though it is virtually impossible to count those further away? Or should you set a radial boundary with your boat as a reference point and only regard those individuals that move within that circle as a group? Or maybe solely count those animals engaged in the same behaviour? And surely, shouldn’t there be a standardised methodology of how to define a group across research sites? These are some of the questions I am trying to clarify and answer in the context of my Master thesis here in the Amvrakikos Gulf.

Each day that Joan, the volunteers and I venture out in the Gulf I count the dolphins according to different group definitions. The immediate aim is to analyse the discrepancy in group size estimates that they might yield, as well as determine which definition is most appropriate for the Amvrakikos Gulf. The overarching objective is also to bring attention to the conservation and ecological (etc.) importance of using a standardised group size definition, and come up with a suggestion of what such a methodology might entail.

Theoretically it might seem like an easy job, but the field is a different empirical matter. After two weeks of field work, my experience is this - in nature, things are often more intricate and complex than what they appear at first glance, and on philosophical days I’m inclined to agree with Socrates ‘all I know is that I know nothing‘. But, to me that’s also the charm about research - it’s challenging and requires complete immersion of all your faculties. And of course, the curiosity involved in not being able to predict where an experiment might take you.

Christina Geijer

Challenging counts

2009-05-25T20:36:00.005+03:00

Two consecutive days of observing dolphins ‘families’, with all age classes represented, has left me even more intrigued by the intricacies of social organisation among these intelligent animals. Flanked by what we presume to be their mothers, siblings and ‘babysitters’, Joan, myself and the team of volunteers enjoyed a couple of magic hours in the company of four cute newborns.

Always curious, the dolphins allowed us to approach them, making life easier for Joan, who in total took around 350 photographs for subsequent identification.

It seemed like the whole dolphin population living in the Amvrakikos Gulf came out to play during these days and we must have seen over 30 animals spread around the boat, plus many more in sight.

As a research assistant and Master student doing my thesis in collaboration with Tethys I’ve really managed to time my field work right. But, with an aim to count dolphins according to different group definitions, my first two days of data collection were hmmm... somewhat challenging... but wonderful for sure!!

Christina Geijer

Life goes on for "super-mama"

2009-05-22T22:47:00.008+03:00

Today we saw a very special friend. I was happy to see a female bottlenose dolphin very well know to us. Her photoidentification code in our catalogue is 03046, but since July 2007 I keep referring to her as “super-mama” (super-mom). During the 3rd and 4th of July 2007 we observed her mourning a dead newborn, likely her own offspring.

Our last encounter was on December 2008. This morning we saw her in close association with another newborn. There were three other newborns/calves in that group. Next sightings will confirm whether or not she is the actual mother of the newborn she was swimming with.

We will keep you updated!

joAn

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 11-19 May 2009

2009-05-18T18:20:00.006+03:00

Nine days in the office, or in the field on the Amvrakikos Gulf, Greece? I know which I prefer! As Earthwatch staff, we are here to experience what a project is like from a volunteer’s perspective, and remind ourselves why we do what we do.

Elah, our fellow volunteer, is an avid dolphin lover, with a passion that shines through. Despite our different backgrounds, after the first day at sea, we are all infatuated.

Our first sighting had started following a single dolphin, and ended with a big group. They were socialising, diving and feeding, and demonstrated some amazing aerial displays. They are hungry and feeding on fish that they drive to the surface, and the surrounding seabirds are making the most of the opportunity for an easy dinner.

Each day has given us sightings like this, but the best had to be when we found two newborn dolphins, just a few days old, porpoising alongside their mothers, their foetal creases still visible. We felt so privileged to see them. This goes for the adults too, who have let us into their secret lives – we will all miss Max, Gindra, Koboloi and the rest - whose fin markings we have got to know quite well.

But it is not just dolphin research. To quote Elah, “I’m participating in a program that is actually going toward something useful, with a scientist who knows the answer to any question posed on his subject”. We have also enjoyed the friendliness of the local people, our post-survey café freddos, the beautiful surroundings, comfortable house and great food.

All in all, it has been an absolutely fantastic experience!

Emma (Earthwatch Engagement Officer), Debbie (Earthwatch Research Officer), and Elah (dolphin addict).

Earthwatchers in the field

2009-05-17T15:58:00.006+03:00

Our second team of volunteers is about to end and tomorrow will be our last day at sea. This time our team relied on the participation of two members of the Earthwatch Institute, who have been given the opportunity of seeing how things work in the field.

Emma, from the Engagement Department, working with several corporate partners and giving support to staff throughout their fielding process, and Debbie, working at the Research Department on the developing of the Oceans research programme.

It is always good to get a chance to spend time with our Earthwatch colleagues and get to know them more personally, since our communication occurs mostly through e-mail.

They both have shown great interest in our research and have worked very hard both onboard and at the field station, where they have dedicated extensive time to identifying dolphins spotted during the morning. Great work girls!

It wouldn't be fair not to also mention Elah, our third volunteer this week. She has put as much dedication as our Earthwatchers and luckily enough she will stay here during the next team, too.

Those of you are willing to hear their version of the experience at the Dolphins of Greece expedition will have to wait until tomorrow!

joAn

First newborns of the season!

2009-05-13T20:41:00.007+03:00

Today we saw the first newborns of the 2009 research season in the Amvrakikos Gulf.

What initially started as a sighting of a single individual quickly evolved into one that will stay in our retinas for quite a while.

After about half an hour with this new group, we were amazed to see two newborns approaching our boat up to a few metres.

Aina, our Catalan research assistant, was especially happy. Finally, today, on her last day in Amvrakikos until next September, she was the one who spotted the group!

As I write these lines, Aina is on her way back to Barcelona. I am sure that she still has a smile on her face while recalling the images of this morning.

Newborns are always good news. Their immature way of swimming, surfacing with their chins up besides their mothers, and their foetal creases on both sides giving them a zebra-like appearance, filled us with joy and optimism.

joAn

Lily Grace

2009-05-11T16:56:00.004+03:00

Gen and Chris Johnson from earthOCEAN, friends and collaborators of Tethys, are happy to announce that…

On Saturday May 9, at 7 am, Lily Grace Johnson was born.

Lily weighed 8.4 pounds (about 3.8 kg) and her birth ‘only’ took six hours. Lily is healthy and happy.

Mum Gen is fine and she will soon get back home with Lily. Dad Chris is busy downloading all his digital stuff, and he admitted that “… yes, I have been going crazy taking pictures of her ;-)”

Congratulations to Gen and Chris!

We wish to Lily a spectacular life full of joy, happiness and health.

Silvia Bonizzoni

Dolphins of Greece volunteers, 1-9 May 2009

2009-05-09T11:31:00.005+03:00

A truly great experience...

Amazing PI, asssistant, dolphin sightings, location, food, weather and team. Always seeing and learning something new. Spacious airy, clean living, working, eating, socialising and sleeping accommodaton. Different Greek foods – love the lamb, pies, Greek salad, shrimps and moussaka.

Vonitsa – a delightful small very real Greek town – loved the fishing harbour and fishernen – good restaurants for coffee & dinner.

Dolphins – saw so many frenzied and belly-up feeding, porpoising, diving, swimming, socialising – such magical sightings.

Team mates – Mark on his Blog, Richard – a star on the Netpad, Aina learning fast herself and teaching us – Joan firm but fun leadership, with well-balanced, busy and varied days and of course, Posei his well fed and loved dog. Michael and I participated fully too making our contribution, albeit very small, to this most worthwhile research.

A special mention of our PI, Joan who shows such humanity and integrity, great knowledge and love of dolphins and the local community and all with a twinkle in his eye and a smile on his face. Keep up this amazing work. Thank you for this experience!

Jill, UK

---

My first experience of Earthwatch was a project in the Bahamas – Dolphins and Whales of Abaco Island which was an excellent start to a future in voluntary conservation ten years ago. Since then I have found that from time to time working in conservation has a moment when things don’t feel as positive as they should. Setbacks occur and it’s time to recharge the battery. This is my 5th project with Earthwatch now and it has been an excellent way of rekindling the enthusiasm for conservation locally. This effect is due to Joan – who through his own dedication and untiring commitment to ‘getting the message across’ is a great example of someone who seems to be able to be undaunted in his positive approach to the education of the community and us as volunteers. So I will go back to the UK with not only wonderful sightings of dolphins in my memory but a refreshed ‘act locally’ hat on, and try to be a better communicator when promoting my own bit of conservation. Thanks Joan and Aina for giving our team so much of your time and help in understanding the bigger picture.

Michael, UK

---

"Sit down, Reshard", "Don’t look out to Sea, Reshard!", "Look out at 12:00 to 3:00, Reshard!" These were just a few of the many directions Joan directed at me as we bounced along in the Gulf in search of the dolphins. This was all before the dolphins were sighted. But, once the dolphins were sighted the words were quickly forgotten and the action came fast and furious. One of us would manned the Netpad, another timed the dives, the others would help spot and count the number of dolphins. We were truly kept busy for the next two or three hours. Our time out on the gulf passed quickly.

Joan was our team leader. He was assisted by Aina. They were very good to work with. They were patient and very informative. I must admit, I needed a little extra help from time to time, especially while using the dreaded Netpad. They both showed great patience at these times. They heard the word oops often! Our volunteers were Michael and Jill from England, Mark from New Hamshire, and myself, Richard from Kent, Washington. We came together because we all shared a common interest in dolphins and the environment. Being here in Vonitsa this past week was one of the High Points of my life. I am sure Jill, Michael, and Mark would agree with that statement. I believe we share a common concern with the condition of our modern world. There are things about this world we would like to change.

After being here for a week I see hope. Being a teacher I will return and share with my students many of the things we did and witnessed. Perhaps in this small way we can make a difference. If asked, "Would you go on this trip again?" my response would (will) be, "You Betcha! I would do it in a second!" And perhaps I will!

Richard, USA

---

Thank you for a truly remarkable experience. We have seen lots of dolphins doing amazing things. I would like to thank Earthwatch and the Kelly family for their generous gift that made this experience possible for myself and my students. I would especially like to thank Joan and Aina for making this such a positive learning experience. This has re-charged my batteries and my students have greatly benefited as well. I wish Joan, Aina and the dolphin project the best of luck and success preserving these amazing animals.

Mark, USA

Encounter with a dead sea turtle

2009-05-08T19:37:00.005+03:00

This morning, while surveying the waters of the Gulf in search for dolphins, a dead loggerhead sea turtle Caretta caretta was found floating adrift.

Examination of the corpse was carried out by our team from the research boat. Decomposition was not advanced, indicating that death had probably occurred less than 24 hours before.

It was a female with a carapace length of 70 cm. who presented clear signs of by-catch in a trammel net. There was a piece of net protruding from the beak and entangled around the turtle's head.

Loggerhead turtles are a common sight in the Amvrakikos Gulf. Since Tethys started to work in this area back in year 2001, over 300 sightings of this species have been recorded. However, this is the first time we have found a dead animal with signs of by-catch in a fishing net.

joAn

Life in the field video conference

2009-05-07T18:35:00.005+03:00

Yesterday afternoon, through video conferencing, I had the privilege of sharing 45 minutes with students of the Pentucket Middle School in West Newbury, Massachusetts, USA.

They showed great interest in the dolphin research and conservation work carried out by Tethys in the context of the Dolphins of Greece expedition. Certainly, Mark (one of our current Earthwatch volunteers and their teacher of Earth Sciences) managed to awake their curiosity.

Events like this one help me keep in mind that research is just one instrument for conservation. The contribution of devoted educators willing to convey a strong conservation message to future generations is another.

joAn

Amvrakikos Gulf: new photo-identification data

2009-05-05T17:09:00.004+03:00

The research project ‘Dolphins of Greece’, conducted by Tethys in the Amvrakikos Gulf, has recently completed the analysis of photo-identification data pertinent to the whole 2008.

A total of 3,818 selected digital photos, obtained from January to December during sightings along survey transects that cover the whole gulf, allowed to photo-identify 115 individual bottlenose dolphins.

Most of these recognizable individuals are well-known and were already present in the catalogue started in 2001 , but four of them are new animals never seen before.

Ten of the 115 dolphins were sighted together with immature individuals (newborns, calves or juveniles) and this looks like a promising sign for this highly-resident population that lives in a semi-closed eutrophic gulf.

Photographs included a number of non-identifiable animals, i.e. individuals carrying no distinctive marks on their dorsal fins. These, as well as all the subadult classes, should be added to the number of animals sighted in 2008. So, at present, it appears that the total number of animals seen in the Gulf last year is consistent with the population estimate of 150 made in previous years (Bearzi et al. 2008).

Ongoing monitoring will allow researchers to gain insight into the ecology and trends of this unique bottlenose dolphin community.

Silvia Bonizzoni

---
For more information:
Bearzi G., Agazzi S., Bonizzoni S., Costa M., Azzellino A. 2008. Dolphins in a bottle: abundance, residency patterns and conservation of bottlenose dolphins Tursiops truncatus in the semi-closed eutrophic Amvrakikos Gulf, Greece. Aquatic Conservation: Marine and Freshwater Ecosystems 18(2):130-146.

It feels good meeting old friends

2009-05-03T16:59:00.005+03:00

On board, Jill, Michael, Richard and Mark (Earthwatch volunteers), Aina (our Catalan research assistant participating in the project in the context of her MSc thesis) and myself. Two days at sea and we had our first two sightings of the year.

In both cases, the dolphins were found after less than half an hour of navigation. Yesterday our survey was briefly interrupted by an encounter with two dalmatian pelicans. The first dolphin to appear at the horizon was “Helikas”, a highly marked adult with a big notch behind his dorsal fin, probably the result of an unfortunate encounter with a speedboat. As we approached him another two dolphins joined performing a series of leaps. Again, these were well known to us because of the distinctive marks on their dorsal fins, “Koboloi” and “Max”. It feels good to meet these good old friends again.

One of our enthusiast volunteers, Mark Worrall, is participating in the project in the context of Earthwatch’s Life From The Field Programme. I will now switch keyboard with him.

joAn

I am a participant of an Earthwatch fellowship grant funded by the generous support of the Kelly family from Massachusetts. I am an eight-grade Earth Science teacher at Pentucket Middle School in West Newbury, Ma, USA. It is an honor and privilege to be studying these amazing animals in Greece. To observe these animals breaching and feeding in the wild is an awe-inspiring experience that I get to share with my students. I hope to contribute to the preservation of these animals and their habitat.

Mark

---
Visit Mark’s blog

I can hardly wait

2009-04-30T20:50:00.008+03:00

I just came back from my evening walk along Vonitsa seaside with Posi (Poseidon, my dog). This evening I had the pleasant surprise of spotting three bottlenose dolphins surfacing quite close to town. It happened when I was looking at the local fishermen on board their small wooden boats, at about half a mile from where we were, setting their fishing nets at dusk.

After observing the dolphins for about ten minutes they performed a couple of leaps and disappeared. My joy contrasted with the annoyed faces of a couple of old fishermen who approached me once they saw me staring at the calm sea. Certainly, they were thinking about how many holes they were going to find in their fishing nets tomorrow morning.

Tomorrow arrives our first team of volunteers. I can hardly wait to go out and meet again the dolphins of Amvrakikos.

joAn

Dolphins in a Bottle comes to life

2009-04-30T06:38:00.004+03:00

The countdown has started. Next friday, 1st of May, with the arrival of our first team of Earthwatch volunteers Tethys Research Institute starts a new research season in the Amvrakikos Gulf.

Ahead of us lay many hours to be spent at sea in company of the bottlenose dolphins and the rest of the stunning fauna inhabiting the Amvrakikos Gulf.

Those of you who have had the chance to participate in our project know how unique this place is. Today we inaugurate a new blog. Dolphins in a Bottle comes to life as an open window for you to take a look, whenever tempted to know how things are going around here. Not tempted yet? Wait and see!

joAn

Dolphins in a Bottle

2009-01-01T09:27:00.000+02:00